Unable to get a quality print with the Duet2wifi yet.
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Videos of print failing
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1GRs6nr-fYzPL77AL3C50IZR1g6PS3NSM/view?usp=sharing
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1XcmoBBD0w_yWnDDP1cbDiF_xH8x2V5KS/view?usp=sharingMy config files:
config.g
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1d5blOCOul_aWHe4RqgCSXblIUvVFpmqy/viewsimplify3d configs:
https://docs.google.com/document/d/1gov9JJ5U1rBe1DN5lJWjQAKYs6JRcXCzbOghIFJgWhQ/edit?usp=sharingI've spent a lot of time converting my Tronxy X5sa to a Duet2Wifi board.
I'm unable to get a good print and am very frustrated.Please help.
whoever helps me get my printer to print i will buy lunch.
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To me, it looks like it is under extruding and the Z0 isn't close enough to the bed.
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If the first and third photos show the second layer being printed, then I think the Z steps/mm may have been set much too high in the M92 command.
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@stephen6309 Why is it under extruding.
I upped the extrusion rate on the m92 line from like E115 to E900 and in between. You can hear the extruder clicking to push more and it doesn't seem to come out at the needed amount for some reason.
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@dc42 M92 X160.00 Y160.00 Z800.00 E165
What would you recommend changing it to?
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@stephen6309 ...the Z0 isn't close enough to the bed
Seems like no matter how many times i set the zoffset, it doesn't change how close to the bed the nozzle gets. Why would that be the case?
Basically i do:
- z home
- nudge the nozzle to the bed with paper resistance
- zero out bed with "G92 Z0"
- do a "G1 Z10" Move nozzle 10mm away from bed.
- do a "G30 S-1" and record the Z height (.71) and put it in the config.g on line...(G31 P25 X-20 Y-45 Z0.72 ; Set Z probe trigger value, offset and trigger height)
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@chriskimbr said in Unable to get a quality print with the Duet2wifi yet.:
G30 S-1
fyi, when i do a G30 S-1, the nozzle doesn't move close to bed touching like it does after nudging it and setting G92 Z0
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@chriskimbr Those videos show that next to bu**er all is coming out of the nozzle. Which means severe under extrusion. But, you do get a bit of filament for the first layer and a bit of filament for the perimeters, both of which would be printed slower so that might be a clue.
You haven't given us much to go on regarding the hardware and print settings you are using. But it's an extrusion issue. Things to check....
Is the temperature accurate? Do you have the correct settings for the thermistor you are using? What filament are you printing and at what temperature? Have you tried a higher temperature?
Have you calibrated the steps per mm for the extruder? i,e, with the hot end disconnected, if you ask for 100mm of filament to be extruded, do you in fact get 100mm?
Have you checked for a blockage or partial blockage in the nozzle and hot end? The fact that you say the extruder is clicking means that there is a restriction somewhere in the hot end or the filament isn't getting hot enough to melt properly. Those are the most likely causes but there may also be a mechanical problem with the extruder, or the motor isn't powerful enough. What extruder and what hot end are you using?
What speed are you trying to print at ? It looked quite fast. Is you hot end capable of melting the filament fast enough? What size nozzle are you using? Have you tried printing slower?
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@deckingman said in Unable to get a quality print with the Duet2wifi yet.:
Is the temperature accurate? Do you have the correct settings for the thermistor you are using? What filament are you printing and at what temperature? Have you tried a higher temperature?
I have changed the temperature from 215 to 235Have you calibrated the steps per mm for the extruder? i,e, with the hot end disconnected, if you ask for 100mm of filament to be extruded, do you in fact get 100mm?
It pushes out 100mm with hot end disconnected.
With hot end connected its shy about 40mm even when i increase the rate
Have you checked for a blockage or partial blockage in the nozzle and hot end?
new v6 hotend, new extruder, new bowding tube. no blockage.
The fact that you say the extruder is clicking means that there is a restriction somewhere in the hot end or the filament isn't getting hot enough to melt properly. Those are the most likely causes but there may also be a mechanical problem with the extruder, or the motor isn't powerful enough. What extruder and what hot end are you using?
V6 HotEnd Clone - Long Distance 0.4mm 3D Printer Extruder - Silver 0.4MM 2
https://www.gearbest.com/3d-printer-parts/pp_613785.html?wid=1433363
Extruder - Redrex Upgraded Aluminum Bowden Extruder with 40 Teeth MK8 Drive Gear for DIY Reprap Prusa 3D Printers
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07HDKRFKT/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
What speed are you trying to print at ? It looked quite fast. Is you hot end capable of melting the filament fast enough? What size nozzle are you using? Have you tried printing slower?
I don't care about speed until i get printing to work.
standard .4 nozzle
tried various speeds.
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@chriskimbr
Ref the temperature. What I meant was, are you sure that what the temperature reads is correct? If you have the wrong values for the particular themistor then it could be reading high so what you think is 215 might be a lot less.I'm not normally a betting man but from what I've seen of your videos and from what you've said, I'd put a great deal of money on the fact that the problem lies with a partial blockage of your hot end - despite the fact that you say otherwise.
Is it an all metal V6 clone or a lite version V6 clone? i.e does it have a PTFE liner going all the way through the heat break? How much retraction are you using or have you been using? The most common cause of problems such as yours with E3D V6s and clones thereof is either heat creep or too much retraction causing semi molten filament to be drawn up into and beyond the heat break where it swells and solidifies, causing a restriction.
If the hot end is an all metal clone, consider buying a genuine E3D Lite heat sink - they aren't too expensive. These are much less prone to the sort of problem I have outlined because the PTFE liner runs all the way through the heat break. The down side is that you'll be limited to using no more than about 260 deg C.
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The temperature is obviously incorrect on the duet wifi
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You can use a calculator such as this one to calculate a new beta value for your thermistor since you already have a multimeter w/ thermocouple. Just take the first measurement at 25C and the second at your normal print temp and you'll have the values you need to use the beta value therm model. This process will probably get you more accurate results than component info from gearbest.
Since you were running at '230' (actually higher due to non-calibrated temp readings) there's a chance the ptfe liner is damaged as well as it starts to degrade above 240.
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@nhof I changed the m305 line to have this instead, now it reads temp correctly.
M305 P1 T100000 B4725 C7.06e-8 R4700 S"Hot End Heater" ; Set thermistor + ADC parameters for heater 1My C"" value was wrong, from someone else.
The new thermistor i got with my genuine v6 assembly rocks, its a cylendar instead of a cheap wire thermistor.
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@chriskimbr said in Unable to get a quality print with the Duet2wifi yet.:
The new thermistor i got with my genuine v6 assembly rocks, its a cylendar instead of a cheap wire thermistor.
Sorry but I can't keep up with all the various threads you keep starting. In this one you mention a clone V6, then I learn from another thread that you've bought a genuine V6. I see you also have yet another thread asking about calibrating the extruder. People don't have the time or inclination to keep dodging between all these various threads to find out what hardware you are currently using and what changes you've made regarding calibrations and configurations. I suggest you keep to a single thread or if you start a new one, mark the others as solved.
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@deckingman Sorry, will do. I've been troubleshooting trying to figure out the problems and solutions.
I'll try to do better at what you described.
I appreciate your guys' help.
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why dont you contact a freelance printer installation technician
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@mercytrigris said in Unable to get a quality print with the Duet2wifi yet.:
why dont you contact a freelance printer installation technician
Most likely because he would have to pay for the service. Whereas asking questions on these forums will elicit free advice from other users.
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@chriskimbr Do you know the maximum current of the motors?
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@obeliks Tried looking it up for Tronxy X5sa couldn't find what the max current is for steppers.
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Do you have something written on the motor?
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@obeliks I'll look and get back to you
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Extrusion issue:
Print starts fine, first layer, next layers, looking good.
Then the fillament isn't extruding. I hit pause, i extrude manually, doesn't extrude for a second then it comes out. unpause and it is extruding ok, but will repeatedly stop extruding after a little bit.Did this on my other extruder, have a new one now, does the same thing.
Using Genuine V6 hotend e3d
weird.
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M305 P1 T100000 B3950 C7.060000e-8 R4700
that is neither correct for a genuine nor a clone.
so you are prob printing at the wrong temperature
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Assuming the temperatures are reasonable it's usually going to be one of the following
- Trying to extrude too much volume - V6 tops out around 8-10mm^3/s. Overworking the extruder can cause grinding and plastic buildup in hobs.
- Too much tension on the filament feed - tangled filament, long feed distance, etc.
- Very quick retractions tearing the filament out and filling hob teeth
- Incorrect tension on extruder hobs. Too tight would result in grinding and overworking the motor, Too loose would result in slipping.
- Thermal issue such as a broken fan causing heat creep up the heatbreak - this causes jams.
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@veti im printing with this updated line;
M305 P1 T100000 B4725 C7.06e-8 R4700 S"Hot End Heater" ; Set thermistor + ADC parameters for heater 1
