Favorite Temperature Setting Routine
Morning. Can you please share links to descriptions of your favoured temperature setting routine?
I'd be interested to hear how accurate you think it is; i.e. do you vary and see changes in hotend temp settings of 2.5, 5, 20C, etc.
Have you found your routine to be material portable or is it only suitable for A specific material such as PLA or PETG?
@doctrucker Not sure I understand the question Wes.
Hot end temp or bed temp or both? What do you mean by "Temperature Setting Routine"? Personally I determine the hot end temperature by the usual method of printing a tower. Then when I print, I just use that temperature.
Perhaps I've a bad tower or results are being clouded by other issues which I'm chipping away at but the finish doesn't change dramatically with 5C set point changes.
I am hoping there is something less arbitrary and less objective that needs less fettling later on to get good bridging and best low overhangs while retaining a measure of strength.
Essentially I need to develop my set up into a documented procedure for both reel to reel or more substantial changes maybe within the main material groups.
For PLA I generally start with about 200C or whatever the filament supplier recommends. If it looks overheated or stringing is bad then I reduce it in 5C increments.
Thes best thing to do is get familiar with the different filaments and their temp & handling needs.
A 5°C change can be very big a difference for some filaments while others it's no big deal. It can also matter how fast you're printing. If you ramp up the speed it's generally better to increase the temp slightly (like 5°) to compensate for less heating time through the hotend (called Dwell time).
Obviously we couldn't tell you what to do with so many filaments available. Even, as you say, there are reel to reel differences (although less so with the higher end ones, better QC).
The Duet Web Control (DWC) has the ability to store filament specific settings so you can simply click to set & load / unload a filament once you've worked out the proper temps and speeds.
Here's a couple guides that may help (most are trying to sell you theirs ... LOL):
https://all3dp.com/2/the-best-printing-temperature-for-different-filaments/ (LOT OF INLINE ADS)
https://www.matterhackers.com/3d-printer-filament-compare (one of the better ones)
http://filaments.ca/pages/temperature-guide (also fairly good, scroll down past the 1st part)
(Mostly about PLA & ABS, but the site has lots of well written articles, this one has a great discussion with illustrations of adhesion issues)
I haven't found much of a variance to temperature in quite some time. I gave up using towers since I had to go 20c above or below the advertised range to really start to notice a difference.
I think the filament of a few years ago and the filament of today is very different. It seems like quality and formulation is good enough now that the temp range on the spool is pretty accurate and if your hotend temp is actually accurate it doesn't seem to matter a lot.
I usually just target the middle of the advertised range and go from there. If I'm printing at the volumetric limit I'll use the higher end of the range, and if I'm printing small parts I'll target the lower end.
Morning! Missed a flurry of activity on this post!
Yeah the temp tower tests are awkward or useless so far! On some they are far too complicated and get failures or bad finishes where parts curl up a bit and start knocking the hot end on others I can go the full 220-180 test range for PLA without seeing much difference other than a slight change to the shine of the parts.
Thanks for the links, I will have a look through them.
Need to revisit pressure advance. Wasn't a fan of how far the infill retracted (or how much extra infill/perimeter overlap was needed) as it suggested a significant variation between where the gcode directed polymer, and where it ended up. But having thought about it further I may have over cooked the PA values.