Okay so I guess I just leave the Interpolation the way it is because this is how i have it set.
M350 X16 Y16 Z16 E16 I1
I don't have any toothed belt to smooth idler anywhere. I took special care not to do that.
Okay so I guess I just leave the Interpolation the way it is because this is how i have it set.
M350 X16 Y16 Z16 E16 I1
I don't have any toothed belt to smooth idler anywhere. I took special care not to do that.
Okay so where do I set the interpolation to x256? I'm just wanting to make sure I'm understanding what I'm changing exactly because I have never really messed with the interpolation at all.
Also what I think i'm understanding what you are saying is that these type of idlers could be causing some issues?
I have the belt running over these in three spots. What I have herd is you don't run the toothed part of the belt across a smooth idler so how exactly do I do the belt flips you talked about properly?
First off Thank You for some great suggestions!
So I measured out the vertical ridges and the ridges were exactly the same as the pitch of my belts.
I have tried changing the microstepping to 64 instead of 16 but I never could get it to work properly, the extrusion was really small and I had to up my E steps to 1200 to even get anything to print and even then it was getting poor layer adhesion. Maybe if i had played with it more i could have gotten it closer but at 1200 steps after calibration it just felt like something wasn't right.
My idlers are all 3mm bore, i will be changing them all to 5mm and seeing if that makes a difference.
I have also changed my acceleration to a bit lower of a value and added the M204 into my Config.g and ended up getting this as a result on a ringing test cube. It has much smaller vertical ridges they are still there but much better. Although I'm still getting weird extra fill for lack of a better term inside the X. Also i know the top looks pretty bad that was more my fault for bumping my BL Touch and now the Leveling is a bit off which I will be fixing now.
I'm printing more brackets to stiffen it up the printer and will see if that helps also.
Here is a video of it printing a Benchy at the time of writing this.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UQQDTHZD0rQ
Recently I have just finished a project I’ve been working on for around a year and a half now. It’s a large scale printer that is 1 Meter square.
It has been a really wonderful project I’ve learned so much about 3D printers in the process of the build. Although there have been a few issues I just cannot seem to figure out how to fix no matter how much I try.
The issue is that there is a awful ringing/ghosting, and no matter how much I turn the print speed down there is still ringing. Also there is weird layer shifting going through all the prints that isn’t awful at some angles but leave a really rough and ugly surface at other angles to all my prints when you are looking at them. I’ve checked the printer up and down, everything is square, everything is oiled that needs to be oiled, the Z axis lead screws are very smooth so smooth that they can slide up and down with little to no pressure at all even with such a large bed, the belts are tight, the print bed is leveled with a BL Touch that I get beautiful first layers with. I’m not sure what else to do to get rid of this problem. This printer is a important part of my small business on Etsy, so detail before speed is always my way to go, thats why I want such a big printer so I could print over days at a time and just have it pumping out parts along side my other smaller machines.
I’m not new to 3d printing I like to think I have a pretty good understanding, but this printer has me stumped. Therefore any help is appreciated, I will give basic Printer info and the Config.G file below for my duet 2 WiFi. Thank you.strikethrough text
Printer information:
Core XY design
Titan Areo Extruder
Duet 2 WiFi board
Running 4 Z Steppers
Linear rails for and XY
Bl Touch
Slicer I use is Simplify 3d
Config.G file:
; Configuration file for Duet WiFi (firmware version 1.21)
; executed by the firmware on start-up
;
; generated by RepRapFirmware Configuration Tool v2 on Fri Mar 22 2019 00:11:18 GMT-0700 (PDT)
; General preferences
G90 ; Send absolute coordinates...
M83 ; ...but relative extruder moves
M667 S1 ; Select CoreXY mode
; Drives
M569 P0 S1 ; Drive 0 goes forwards
M569 P1 S1 ; Drive 1 goes forwards
M569 P2 S0 ; Drive 2 goes forwards
M569 P3 S0 ; Drive 3 goes backwards
M350 X16 Y16 Z16 E16 I1 ; Configure microstepping with interpolation
M92 X80.00 Y80.00 Z400.00 E425.00 ; Set steps per mm
M566 X400.00 Y400.00 Z12.00 E100.00 ; Set maximum instantaneous speed changes (mm/min)
M203 X18000.00 Y18000.00 Z180.00 E1200.00 ; Set maximum speeds (mm/min)
M201 X2000.00 Y2000.00 Z100.00 E250.00 ; Set accelerations (mm/s^2)
M906 X900.00 Y900.00 Z1200.00 E850.00 I30 ; Set motor currents (mA) and motor idle factor in per cent
M84 S30 ; Set idle timeout
; Axis Limits
M208 X0 Y0 Z0 S1 ; Set axis minima
M208 X910 Y910 Z1000 S0 ; Set axis maxima
; Endstops
M574 X1 Y1 Z1 S0 ; set active low and disabled endstops
M558 P5 X0 Y0 Z1 H5 F120 T6000 ; Set Z Probe to type Switch or Digital output where Z probe connector is used. Used for z only.;
G31 P500 X0 Y0 Z2.4 ; Set Z probe trigger value, offset and trigger height
; Z-Probe
M574 Z1 S2 ; Set endstops controlled by probe
M307 H3 A-1 C-1 D-1 ; Disable heater on PWM channel for BLTouch
M558 P9 H5 F120 T6000 ; Set Z probe type to bltouch and the dive height + speeds
G31 P500 X0 Y0 Z2.4 ; Set Z probe trigger value, offset and trigger height
M557 X20:800 Y20:800 S100 ; Define mesh grid
; Heaters
M305 P0 T100000 B4138 R4700 ; Set thermistor + ADC parameters for heater 0
M143 H0 S120 ; Set temperature limit for heater 0 to 120C
M305 P1 T100000 B4725 C7.06e-8 R4700 ; Set thermistor + ADC parameters for heater 1
M143 H1 S280 ; Set temperature limit for heater 1 to 280C
M307 H7 A-1 C-1 D-1
; Fans
M106 P0 S0 I0 F500 H-1 ; Set fan 0 value, PWM signal inversion and frequency. Thermostatic control is turned off
M106 P1 S1 I0 F500 H1 T45 ; Set fan 1 value, PWM signal inversion and frequency. Thermostatic control is turned on
; Tools
M563 P0 D0 H1 ; Define tool 0
G10 P0 X0 Y0 Z0 ; Set tool 0 axis offsets
G10 P0 R0 S0 ; Set initial tool 0 active and standby temperatures to 0C
; Automatic power saving
M911 S10 R11 P"M913 X0 Y0 G91 M83 G1 Z3 E-5 F1000" ; Set voltage thresholds and actions to run on power loss
; Custom settings are not configured
@DocTrucker Thank you so much for the advice! Although I’m still kinda new to things like coarse and fine pitch. So if you don’t mind explaining or maybe giving a link to somewhere I can understand what you meant by checking the pitch and see if it matches? I just want to be sure I’m checking the right thing. Thank you again!
Around 6 months ago I started on the adventure of building my own printer. I ended up buying a kit that I could then modify as I learned more and more. After a strong couple days I got a printer that printed pretty well besides leveling issues that was more my fault then the machines fault. I had been using the included mother board until something happened with the motor controller chip that ended up sending to much electricity into the motor causing it to overheat and loose steps. So in a leap of faith I splurged and got the Duet 2 WiFi. After setting things up and many hours of troubleshooting, I got it up and printing. Although for some inexplicable reason it will now after the change print with a wavy surface. It sorta looks like ghosting that I get on some of my other machines, but all over the print regardless of edges or anything nearby.
Here’s a few images to get a idea of what the prints look like.
I have spent countless hours trying to get this to look better, but with absolutely no improvement. I need help with any ideas of what I can do to get a better look to my prints. Be it in the slicer or in the config files for the Duet.
Printer is a Core XY printer and I use S3D as my slicer.
Thanks