@phaedrux I used raspi-config to expand partition

Given the amount of time and things that sound like they have changed, it may be best to start a new thread with your issue and give us as much detail as possible.

Thanks for the update. We probably should have asked you to ensure all other hardware was disconnected and starting from that state. 😥

@paolozampini1973 I solved the problem thanks

I have the same too.
I haven't inverted anything either and only use 15% or more in the slicer.

But if there is a possibility that it starts under 15% I would be interested in it.

@norder @Phaedrux

On the page to calibrate the z trigger height;
https://docs.duet3d.com/User_manual/Connecting_hardware/Z_probe_testing

Number 10, Open config-override.g and check that there are no G31 commands in it. If you find any, delete those lines and save the file.

Where is config-override.g ?

@quadcells followed the instructions for motion. I now have live video working and on the DWC .
Thanks

@phaedrux
Hello, thank you very much for your help. Soldering the 1K resistor directly in front of the sensor board helped. I have a stable signal. Tested several times, flawless. I also think that the connected shielding also helps.

Thank you again. 🙂

I tried to promote my idea of a "mini-z" axis several times. I needed to control z-hop and mesh levelling for each toolhead individually.
So far it is still a wish, not even on the devs ToDo list.

@Feynman137
@falcounet said in Printer forgetting z-offset at start of new print:

If your Z axis move the wrong direction when using G30, you may probably need to fix the axis direction (S value of M569 for the Z driver).

That is most unlikely the cause, since he can print several parts in a row.
I guess it's a false Z-endstop-definition? Z homing to min-endstop is the way to go.

@dog said in Flsun Q5 delta printer, poor dimensional accuracy:

Decided to go with altering the rod lengths, because that seemed to work and I kinda understood how it affects the print when it comes to dimensions. (measured length / desired length * rod length = new rod length ish) basically if the print is too small, shorten the rod, if too big, lengthen it.

I've used a piece of carbon paper over a piece of paper and did a heated nozzle tap (takes less force to mark) to do basically the same thing. It can speed up the process without doing a full print and having to account for anything other than just movement simply measuring from the outside of one dot to the inside of the other.

@t3p3tony Thank you for the tip! This is what I ordered, although I can't say for sure whether it scales the input like you described.

757-03.jpg

https://www.adafruit.com/product/757

@rivianadventurer In addition to what @Phaedrux has said, did you happen to have a part cooling fan running when the temperature dropped? If so, a silicone sock might help or some re-arrangement of the part cooling air stream to prevent cold air being blown over the nozzle block.

@gloomyandy ok thanks. so my option is to go to the mainboard of the Duet 3 Mini 5+. i see the dedicated LED pins need an external 5V power supply. couldnt i use a regular IO such as IO2.out or IO3.out since i'm only powering 2-3 individual NeoPixels? it has 5V power.

My current setup is using a PanelDue 5i 4-wire, a Y endstop, and 2 thermistors. then everything else goes thru the toolboard 1LC. the documentation says 5V supplies 1A total, 200-300 mA for internal, then PanelDue and other peripherals. All i have

Upgrade from RRF2 to RRF3 !
Please do not update to the latest firmware immediately, as this can cause problems.
Please work through the following instructions.
https://docs.duet3d.com/User_manual/RepRapFirmware/Migration_RRF2_to_RRF3

Excerpt from the instructions:
Note: it is not possible to upgrade a Duet WiFi, Ethernet or Maestro directly from firmware 1.x or 2.x to 3.01 or later. You must upgrade to firmware 3.0 as an intermediate step.

@rogerpodacter most likely the main board is starting up and sending commands to the tool board before the tool board has finished starting up.

Check that in config.g you have a delay command such as G4 S2 before the first command that refers to board 121 (which is probably your M569 command).

Also use M122 B121 to check which bootloader version the tool board has.

@ghazi said in CoreXY with rotating bed:

However, I see the given example of a modified CoreXY kinematics in the doc does not have any change in printing bed orientation nor X, Y, or Z offset distance.

I thought about why you say there is no documentation about CoreXY offset distances. I expect you mean the robot documentation on Duet.

Maybe you didn't make the connection between the Robot kinematics for CoreXY 5 axis and the DH parameters **). Every axis and link between them is described by a DH (Denavit-Hartenberg) parameter set. The axis directions and offsets (XYZ offsets) are described in this parameters. A general description for a 6 axis robot is described on the page https://docs.duet3d.com/en/User_manual/Machine_configuration/Configuring_Robot_DH_parameters

This mechanism is also used for the Robot kinematics CoreXY 5 *) axis. For the X, Y, Z axis, which are linear axes, this DH parameters are relatively simple (with the exception that steppers A and B are mathematically connected), for the AC rotary axes similar to the 6 axis robot's DH parameters.

*) this is completely separate code from the normal CoreXY code, which is part of the Cartesian kinematics and the offsets and positions are set by different parameters and described in diffferent documents.

Any possible physical offsets can be put into parameter values of DH. For example, to start the complete printer at a XY position different from 0,0, the base coordinates can be translated by those offsets. Another example is, that the A and C axes can be offset, i. e. they need not to be spherical. The offsets will be calculated correctly.

**) I will add a comment at the beginning of the documentation to make this clearer

@feynman137

It appears the issue was incompatible firmware between the expansion board and my mainboard but I issued the M997 command and now I can turn on the heater.

@jay_s_uk That servo arm is as cute as a button, I like it.

Please send an email to warranty@duet3d.com and CC your reseller. Include a link to this forum thread and the details of your original purchase. You'll receive a reply with a form to fill out.

This is very vague. Can you give some more detail?

Share your config.g, slicer start gcode, homing files, and the gcode file in question. Firmware and DWC version?