@phaedrux I installed 3.0 and now the bed and hotend have a measured temperature of -273.1 °C and also the defaults for the "active" and "standy" temperatures are -273 °C. I have a delta printer with a Smart Effector and before reloading the Web Controller, the old Web Controller also showed that the z probe is read as permanently triggered now. After restarting and reloading everything I now have Duet Web Control 2.0.4 and there the z probe is not shown any more. So I cannot say if it is still read faulty. But the measured and default bed and heater temperatures remain at -273.1 °C.
After the update, before reloading the web interface I tried the M308 command from here: https://docs.duet3d.com/en/User_manual/Connecting_hardware/Temperature_connecting_PT100
to properly configure the heater. A second heater showed up in the interface for a moment, afterwards it reloaded itself to the new version where only the one original heater was shown again, but still with the absolute zero temperature measured as well as shown on the touch display as active and standy temperature.
The one-time cost of an pellet extruder is nothing compared to the labour cost changing filament spools frequently , feeding this printer 24/7 from three or more 1kg spools.
A single motor hotend would have to be paused for every spoolchange, which can cause heat creep into the cold zone and clogged filament path's.
If you still want to take the spool-road, go for multi-motor extruders with individual runout-sensors and always have one reduntant drive. So you can change spools without interupting the print.
Also, using these undefined color filaments makes the idea of multicolor printing obsolete, because the outcome would be unpredictable.
@suntoxx It’s a bit late for a comprehensive reply, but I will try my best …
Without the use of a preprocessor, I don’t know a way to automatically confine the mesh to an area used by the actual print.
Check out the Prusaslicer startcode i found last night. It works nicely! Just wish that Duet would handle it and not that you got to adjust it according to each slicer.
Maybe you could try some faster acceleration, 100 for Z looks quite moderate to me.
Z acceleration seems moderate in comparison to the other axis? What would that improve? I guess not much in terms of time. Less stringing?
Your Edits prove the value of a narrow mesh. However, mechanical precision of a printer is limited (not only by the BLTouch or the steppers), so it’s worth to take a look at first layer adhesion, too. To improve this, you could play with print speed, bed and hotend temperatures.
Yes, i am quite far up in temperature I think, using 70° and 235° for PLA for this print. I actually did have an adhesion problem too on this print, at least on some print positions. I did not know that Iso and paper is not enough. Using dishwasher or window cleaner now on top and adhesion on the king sheet is sufficient for this more difficult print.
Edit: Adjusted z by 0.01mm and result is consistent and perfect now! 😄 😎
I just pulled out the heater and checked. It’s a 12V 40W heater cartridge.
I would think this should heat up past 250°.
Also, I put a PT1000 sensor in.
If you have access to a multimeter, it might be worth checking the cartridge resistance to ensure that it is what it says it is. Ohm's law gives us R=V/I = 12/3.35 = approx 3.5 Ohm's for a 40Watt heater at 12V. If the resistance is significantly higher, then the wattage will be correspondingly lower.
I took the extruder off of the motor and reassembled it. The gear spins freely within the bearings when under load.
I've switched to the other extruder and haven't noticed it yet but I haven't had time to tried to try and cause it yet.
I have just realized that in gcode there is no explicit "extrusion rate", like in "mm/s"
You address a topic which has lately been labeled „volumetric extrusion“ - this term has come up in forum posts about thermal limits of hot ends, especially at high print speeds.
But each and every slicer tells the extruder how much filament to deliver for a given linear slope. It’s the art of the firmware to calculate a proper timing, that is: at what point of the way it has to extrude how much filament.
As long as slicer and firmware are d’accord about the filament’s diameter, volume (to provide) and length (to feed) are just two sides of the equation. The time to feed a given volume depends on the speed (x/y) of the print head, and that’s where things become complicated.
The head has to accelerate and to slow down, physics don’t allow him to always move with the proper speed for a constant flow rate. Not to talk about pressure advance, retractions and other obstacles …
The „MFM chart“ you propose might be helpful to spot problematic parts of a print, but TBH I think you should focus on parameters like print speed, hotend temperatures and filament brands in order to overcome the problems with the all-metal hotend. I know what you are talking about. Heat creeping alone has kept me busy for days …
sorry for late response , here my head setup has it is right now , e3d chimera with a .8mm and .4mm nozzle
even with only 2 fan working at 10% , unless it at the limit of the flow , i did re calibrate the heater as well but still seem to be and issue using the .8mm nozzle mostly . My heater block have a silicone sock on them . him using the stock 30watt 12v heater from e3d thinking to maybe put a 40watt and see if it work better , or swap to 24V i would only have to add 2 more PWM SSR to control each hotend , even running a single fan from/ rear doesnt seem to change anything .
thinking it just the limitation of the 30watt heater, what do you think of this ?
I figured it out. I have interpolation turned on for X and Y and off for Z. In my config for RRF2 I had interpolation turned on for all. I turned interpolation back on for Z and it sounds fine. I'm not sure why Modix changed it to be off. Is there and advantage to having Z I0 with a belt driven Z axes? It's much smoother and quieter with it on. Strangely it didn't effect the noise on the Z axes at all. They stayed quiet with both settings.
@sinole the SuperPINDA is made by Pepperl+Fuchs, no Prusa magic. In Europe there are various sellers (VonWange, CR3D, RatRig) selling very similar or identical probes. In the US, SquishWorx carries the SuperPINDA (ref https://squishworx.com/prusa-superpinda/ ) which is the same P+F part Prusa procures as far as I know, for 39$.