ome people switch to using USB storage devices instead of the SD card for the boot driv
Thanks, I'll backup the files, format as suggested, and copy the files back.
Thanks for sharing. One request, is it possible to add Emergency Stop to the menu? Pause would not stop the print head while it was homing and my filament spool somehow got trapped under the Z motor which was crushing it. Unfortunately powering off caused me to lose everything on the SD Card.
I relocated my filament spool from the top of my Ender 3 to attach to the left side of the base by the Z axis motor (less weight up top and filament aligned with extruder). During the beginning part of a print last night, homing procedure, the print head was lowering and my filament spool got trapped underneath the Z motor. I tried to use the control panel to pause the print but it wouldn’t stop so I switched the power off. Since then, the control panel is blank and the SD Card says it needs to be formatted if I plug it into my computer.
Did the SD Card crash because I reset power? I’ve done this when setting up the printer but not had this issue, is there a reason for it happening this time? Is it possible to send emergency stop from the control panel if it had the menu option? Is there anything I can do to resolve this or do I have to start over (I’ve no recent backup since adding z probe)?
UPDATE: I've reformatted the SD Card and am in process of setting up macros, adjusting z probe offset, mesh bed leveling, etc. This time I'll be making a backup but would be nice to understand why this happened to prevent it in the future for somebody else.
I've the Duet Maestro which I've move to another room temporarily and have to borrow the VOIP ethernet cable to connect; however, I have a Pi in the same room which runs off WiFi. I'm wondering if it's possible to use a crossover cable between the Pi and Duet and allow it to access the internet so I don't have to borrow the cable?
@deckingman wow, that thing was really moving, thanks for sharing!
@oliof Thanks for your reply. Do you have any recommendations for a replacement extruder? Is it better to set exact max speed, accelleration, jerk values in config file or set them high and then enable acceleration and jerk control in Cura where you define these settings specifically under different profiles?
I'm currently printing most objects with the default Cura Rough Draft profile which has speeds of 30mm/s outer wall, 60mm/s inner walls/infill, and 120mm/s travel speed. Someday I'd like a Voron or something which can go a lot faster but until then, is it possible to print faster, 80-120mm/s with the Ender 3 and still have the same quality prints on "Rough Draft" prints?
If not with the RepRap config, would Klipper help? I've read some arguing Klipper is unnecessary with the Duet but isn't Klipper better for high speed because of it's physics calculations which allow maximum last minute deceleration and acceleration out of corners, etc. with minimal compromise to quality?
I'e just installed the Duet Maestro for Ender 3 Pro and am having issues with something in the layer change corner on my calibration cube ... https://forum.duet3d.com/topic/10623/duet-maestro-upgrade-calibrations-cube-issue/7
Besides that issue, to add to this discussion, my bed is working perfectly using M305 P0 T98801 B4185 rather than M305 P0 T100000 B4138 R4700 which I originally found on https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HxEk7-6RriQ&t=1031s
That said, when using either M305 P1 T98801 B4185 or M305 P1 T97700 B4619 C9.743561e-8 R2200 my hot end measured ~160C when set to 200C. I was hearing slight clicking noise from the extruder when it was retracting and perhaps because the filament wasn't hot enough. Using the oversample/temp values above, a value of 2200 rather than 4700 since I'm using a Maestro, plugging the results into the spreadsheet dc42 linked, and using those values in my gcode, M305 P1 T45731.91 B4161.08 C10.817155e-8 R2200, has resulted in the hot end measuring 177C of 200C.
I moved my IR all over the place to get the max temp from the hot end while it was stationary. It's difficult to measure but seems correct. Hopefully I will not cause any damage with these values? Is there anyway to better measure the hot end? It doesn't matter which way the hot end wires connect +/- correct? I'm trying to understand why the temp is so far off while the bed is working perfectly.