Best posts made by Inlinebrother

Hi, want to share some news

I changed my PSU to Meanwell LRS 450w - it fits (35 mm height is good for FFCP)
I installed creality 40w 24v heater catridges
And I still had vdd brownouts after that. Though the board restarted and showed the error every time. So it was another issue.

Recently I got used to checking all the cables. And I had a guess that something is wrong with my extruder motors. Because it was only during the print that a printer would give a vdd brownout error and restart. So I checked my stepper motors cables and it turned out all that time I also had loose connections on my stepper drivers So I recrimped them. And that time I also had a "pull test" of my cables while holding multimeter and checking the resistance.

I hope now I'll be able to continue refining my config and help dc42 with debugging

I fried my first board I guess.
New board is working fine

Hi, again, today I overcame my fear and started to crimp.

All in all for FFCP you need to crimp

• all four fans 1.board fan 2. cooler fan 3.extruder 1 fan 4. extruder 2 fan
• five stepper motors
• 3 end stop switches (x/y/z)
• hotbed thermistor 4 pin to 2
• LED strip because the board uses 3pin connector for that instead of 4 pin, but I am not yet sure that the original LED strip is supported

Today I crimped stepper motors and 2 endstops
Stepper motors are easy to crimp, because you only have to check the right order of the cables.
Endstops have 4 pins, but you have to use a 5 pin connector and use only three pins out of them, because Big Dipper/Duet has only one ground. I crimped both grounds together, but if that's wrong please point it out before I plug it in)

I used these two schemes for that
https://www.geeetech.com/wiki/index.php/Mighty_Board#Interface_Layout
https://wiki.fysetc.com/BIG-DIPPER/#3d-model

and I only needed xh2.54 connectors, thanks for the advice @Exerqtor

Crimping process is a new thing for me, so I had to watch some videos to undestand the idea)

For those like me, in a few words, you have to use a crimper tool like SN-2549 and squeeze the tail leaving the front part with a locklng tab intact. Also the idea is to squeeze the tail to fix the cable insulation, so the exposed part of the conductor shouldn't be too long. But I have yet to check my crimping skills, after I finish that process.

Also I accidentaly damaged end stop cable, because I thought it was a bad cable, but it turned out I am the one who is bad at electronics) I guess they make a special GND cable without insulation to take off interference from y and z axis of endstops. For some reason x endstop cable uses another shielding and there is no exposed wires there. So i ripped z axis cable apart and now I am waiting for a new one from ali.

In the meantime I'll finish with other components.

I also checked my adapter design for the Big Dipper
It is ok, but I will have to use only 3 out of 5 screws, because some holes are below the board and the board might touch the screws.
Also I guess I'll have to turn the board in such a way that stepper driver chips are not directly in the line of sight of the board fan. But I think the space between the board and the case would be enough to ensure some airflow. Also I think to add heat sinks, although FYSETC says that they are not necessary.

I also ordered an extender for type-c, to make access to the board easier.
As far as WiFi is concerned, I don't want to make holes, so I'll try to design a holder that will be placed on top of the holes for old reset button and mightyboard data port. But for that i will need to start printing, so it'll have to wait)

Finally it is working
Though I need to adjust tool offsets a bit more
And I also had to change the cooling fan number in cura settings for every extruder to the pin number of the fan (in my case fan #3)
And I need to try dual extruder printing

Thank you all who helped me achieve this.
Hope my story will help somebody)

I'll publish my design for the Big Dipper holder and my configs a bit later.

@jay_s_uk Hi, thank you, I updated my config file, and if I encounter HardFault again I will definitely write back

I installed the default 320w psu and now it seems to work without any extra sounds

An update about hardware:

• The old board was damaged for sure. I don't know how it's called, but something is wrong with how the 5v power is interpreted. When I connect it to USB it shows 1.1v. I use a replacement now.
• I installed the bltouch and it's working perfectly fine. Though I was concerned that it is glowing red and not violet
• I had to reconfigure my thermistors using multimeter, because the resistance values from the docs were wrong. And I was overheating my hotend. It was 270 instead of 230
• ordered an accelerometer supported by duet, will have to design a holder and set it up if I have the time and energy to do that)

Some words about 3d printing troubles)

• Had a lot of trouble printing PETG. Reassembled extruders and changed nozzles several times.
• For now printing 40mms but maybe later I'll try to use input shaping and pressure advance, though on small parts I am not sure that my printer can accelerate faster
• Had holes in my prints. I blame clogs and a bad petf tube. Also 60mms seems to be too high for small models

As for petg it seems that I need to lower flow value in cura. Standard esun petg profile is not working. Thought it might be moisture, bought a dryer, but it didn't help for PETG. Lowering line width and flow seems to help a bit.

I am glad I did that upgrade. Learnt a lot about printing and electronics. And the printer is silent enough that I am sure no neighbor hears it.
Auto bed levelling is a miracle
Wifi interface is a miracle. I need only to push one button to turn my printer on and then I can just sit and control it from distance.
This upgrade made my printer usable at home and a lot more convenient to use.
I learnt a lot and I am in total control of my printer now
Thanks for your help and attention)