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    Quality wire source?

    Scheduled Pinned Locked Moved Unsolved
    Duet Hardware and wiring
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    • A Former User?
      A Former User
      last edited by A Former User

      I went with a mix of RC type silicone insulated wire with tinned copper in various thicknesses and some flexible shielded twisted pair, all from China. Not very cheap, but get what you pay for.

      Edit: Oh, missed the part of not wanting to make the stepper end. Thats usually a 6pin JST PH 2.0mm pitch connector, not that much more trouble to crimp than the 2.54mm Molex for the Duet, but would need smaller dies likely.

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      • bricorundefined
        bricor
        last edited by

        Look up Wire Barn. Hes on ebay as well. US seller

        3dmntbighkerundefined 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
        • 3dmntbighkerundefined
          3dmntbighker @bricor
          last edited by

          @bricor said in Quality wire source?:

          Look up Wire Barn. Hes on ebay as well. US seller

          I see no sign of anything smaller than 22 AWG. Seems very Automotive oriented.

          Scratch built CoreXY with Maestro
          Heavily modified Ender 3 with Maestro
          MPCNC work in progress with Duet WiFi

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          • bricorundefined
            bricor
            last edited by

            I missed the 24 ga part of your post.

            I typically use 22ga and higher.

            3dmntbighkerundefined 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
            • 3dmntbighkerundefined
              3dmntbighker @bricor
              last edited by

              @bricor said in Quality wire source?:

              I missed the 24 ga part of your post.

              I typically use 22ga and higher.

              The Amazon NEMA cables are even 26 😞

              Scratch built CoreXY with Maestro
              Heavily modified Ender 3 with Maestro
              MPCNC work in progress with Duet WiFi

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              • bricorundefined
                bricor
                last edited by bricor

                Like @bearer mentioned, silicone servo wire

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                • bricorundefined
                  bricor
                  last edited by bricor

                  If you don’t find what you need in 24ga, Openbuilds has lightweight 22ga 2,3 and 4 conductor (sheathed) cable. Its good copper wire. The diameter of the 4 conductor canle i have is 3.3mm and the diameter of the inner wires measure 1mm each. Its nice flexible stuff. Works well with crimp connectors of many types, DUET included.

                  The wire colors are red, green, yellow, blue

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                  • mrehorstdmdundefined
                    mrehorstdmd
                    last edited by

                    Have you considered buying spools of wire and making your own cables? It isn't very hard to do and you get complete control over the quality. I like teflon insulated wire because heat from a soldering iron doesn't melt it (unless you really abuse it), but you need a good quality stripper to use it. For motor leads, I twist pairs of teflon insulated wires, then crimp on connectors or ferrules as needed. You can twist wires using an electric drill.

                    Finally, making cables that don't have to be moved a lot can be done by braiding the twisted pairs (example- motor and end stop for the Z axis). You can braid any number (>2) of wires or twisted pairs together and then you don't need any wire loom or other cover.

                    https://drmrehorst.blogspot.com/

                    droftartsundefined 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                    • droftartsundefined
                      droftarts administrators @mrehorstdmd
                      last edited by

                      @mrehorstdmd said in Quality wire source?:

                      For motor leads, I twist pairs of teflon insulated wires

                      I like to flat-braid my motor wires!

                      Ian

                      Bed-slinger - Mini5+ WiFi/1LC | RRP Fisher v1 - D2 WiFi | Polargraph - D2 WiFi | TronXY X5S - 6HC/Roto | CNC router - 6HC | Tractus3D T1250 - D2 Eth

                      mrehorstdmdundefined 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 1
                      • 3dmntbighkerundefined
                        3dmntbighker
                        last edited by

                        I ordered all the stuff to build cables myself. I got the crimps and stuff from https://americas.rsdelivers.com. I got some "tinned copper silicone" hookup wire on Amazon. Fingers crossed there is actual copper in the wire.

                        Scratch built CoreXY with Maestro
                        Heavily modified Ender 3 with Maestro
                        MPCNC work in progress with Duet WiFi

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                        • mrehorstdmdundefined
                          mrehorstdmd @droftarts
                          last edited by

                          @droftarts twisting the individual pairs helps prevent EMI by controlling the magnetic field produced by motor currents in the wires. It also helps prevent inductive coupling between the relatively high current motor wires and sensitive inputs like thermistors and endstops that are often running along side the motor cables.

                          https://drmrehorst.blogspot.com/

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                          • droftartsundefined
                            droftarts administrators @mrehorstdmd
                            last edited by

                            @mrehorstdmd Yup, and braiding does the same thing, as the wires twist around each other (and the other pair, but that doesn't matter as we're not transferring data at high speed like in Ethernet cables). The twist doesn't have to be very tight, 5 to 10 turns per meter is sufficient. See https://medium.com/@emianalyst/effect-of-cable-twisting-on-radiated-emissions-66edb16bec1c

                            Ian

                            Bed-slinger - Mini5+ WiFi/1LC | RRP Fisher v1 - D2 WiFi | Polargraph - D2 WiFi | TronXY X5S - 6HC/Roto | CNC router - 6HC | Tractus3D T1250 - D2 Eth

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                            • 3dmntbighkerundefined
                              3dmntbighker
                              last edited by

                              Just a followup. I find the stepper connectors to be very tedious and fidgety to crimp, and assemble. The wire I ordered "seems" to be a decent quality. I did not have a single failed cable connection. It was annoying that the end stop switches were 2.54mm pitch and the steppers were 2mm pitch. I failed to notice and had to order more stuff to complete the work. I forgot at the last minute to add the wire twist to the motor cables 😞 So far everything seems to be working. And for the first time since I got the Precision Piezo Z sensor I have reliable operation. The wire I used was sketchy and it caused many crashes into the bed. I also beefed up my bed mounts using Materhackers Ryno. All in all my CoreXY is a far better machine than ever before. Now I'm dealing with issues surrounding going to a .6mm nozzle. My CoreXY is my larger format 300x3 printer. My Ender is my 200x3. I had the worst nozzle blockage I've ever experienced AFTER I realized the hot end cooling fan wasn't running. This was the first time I have had to resort to a butane torch to clear the blockage. Joys of the hobby.

                              Scratch built CoreXY with Maestro
                              Heavily modified Ender 3 with Maestro
                              MPCNC work in progress with Duet WiFi

                              Danalundefined 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 1
                              • Danalundefined
                                Danal @3dmntbighker
                                last edited by Danal

                                Good to hear progress. One hurdle at a time. Keep us posted!

                                Delta / Kossel printer fanatic

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