CR-10S5 Firmware
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@Gost101 said in CR-10S5 Firmware:
Here is the profile I'm currently using: Cura Profile
I'm unable to open the profile in cura 4.4.1. Says it's invalid. But unzipping it and looking at it in a text editor shows that your print speed are super slow. 15mm/s to 30mm/s which would explain the 5 hour print time.
If my Ender 3 can handle 50-60mm/s I'm sure your CR-10 could as well. Such low print speeds on such a small object can lead to overheating which your image shows some indication of. So try boosting the print speeds a bit more.
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Here's my Ender3 profile as an example.
https://www.dropbox.com/s/l3v1i0ca0dbgau9/Ender3CuraProfile.curaprofile?dl=1
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Alrighty, so I was able to print fast, but my power supply died on me mid print. Lol, I confirmed it was not the board. I will be buying 2 of these power supplies and wiring them together just as I have done on my other 3D printers, plus it will be more quiet. I will then print the volcano adapters and a case for the duet wifi to sit in.
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Problem, the board still isnt powering on. I looked more at it:
. It looks like the board somehow melted. In addition, non of the fuses poped???? How can I fix this, as the board will not power on through that port/ However it will turn on through usb power.
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Here are a
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picture and a
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@Gost101 said in CR-10S5 Firmware:
I will be buying 2 of these power supplies and wiring them together
don't; wire one to the bed, and one to the duet and everything else instead.
It looks like the board somehow melted. In addition, non of the fuses poped????
hard to say without seeing how it was wired, but clearly a lot of current flowed to the ground terminal of Vin, something fishy if the fuses didn't break
the board will not power on through that port
by "that port" presumably you mean the Vin screw terminal? if the fuse is good and it doesn't power up, odds are U3 is toast, but there doesn't appear to be any damage at glance. The ground terminal is however both deformed and discoloured, could be as simple as it no longer making contact with the board. Need a beefy soldering iron, and preferably a hot plate to preheat the board to get that replaced. Start by confirming continuinty from the Vin ground therminal to other ground points on the board if you have a multimeter.
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I haveent even connected the new power supply briks, I noticed this when taking it appart in order to wire the new one.
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@Gost101 said in CR-10S5 Firmware:
I noticed this when taking it appart in order to wire the new one.
and it was working before you started taking it apart? and at which point did it no longer work?
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@bearer said in CR-10S5 Firmware:
U3
In a middle of a print the other night it stopped. I woke up to find that the print head and the extrude wasn't moving, the heated bed and hotend was not hot. I had only the status of the board being on, and I cannot recall what the status of the web interface was. In addition the power strip did not trip.
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Also, what is a U3?
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@Gost101 said in CR-10S5 Firmware:
Alrighty, so I was able to print fast, but my power supply died on me mid print. Lol, I confirmed it was not the board. I will be buying 2 of these power supplies and wiring them together just as I have done on my other 3D printers, plus it will be more quiet. I will then print the volcano adapters and a case for the duet wifi to sit in.
IMHO I would not use those 2 tiny PSU's, I would buy something like this Mean Well NES-350-12 12V 350 Watt, https://www.amazon.com/NES-350-12-Switching-Power-Supply-110-240/dp/B007K2H0GI/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1526920350&sr=8-1&keywords=Mean+Well+NES-350-12
P.
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@PaulHew Well that's a bit to late I already purchased them and spliced them. They are already good to go. Is this covered under the warranty for replacement. As the fuse did not trip, the circuit breaker connection to the wall did not trip, and was not caused by faulty wiring( the new power supply was not wired up at the time of discovery( I found this after unplugging all the wires to install the new power supply as I assumed the power supply died. I have a video that I can post of the configuration before I removed all the wires if you need that.
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@Gost101 said in CR-10S5 Firmware:
that's a bit to late
its never too late to listen to good advice.
I already purchased them and spliced them
please un-splice the positive power, disconnect BED+ and splice those two wires, do not connect to duet. leave the negative power spliced to common ground and leave the other hot bed wire on BED-.
this way you'll spread the load instead of trying to make two supplies not made to work in parallell do so. (presuming the bed is the 220w type, might not have been the most reliable source i found)
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I asked you to measure if the ground terminal of the Vin connector shows connectivity to the other ground pins around the board. If you don't have a meter or are able to follow simple instructions there isn't a whole lot of troubleshooting we can help you with.
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@bearer I don't have a multimeeter and after this problem with the board I was hoping to be able to get a replacement.
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Then sit back and wait for the admins to evaluate.
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Cool beans. I removed the image.
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@Gost101 Please take a picture of the soldering on the back of the board around the area of the terminal, it's not clear on your earlier end-on picture. The only reason the board would be replaced under warranty is if the soldering was faulty, but the terminal would tend to melt around the pins. An melted terminal, particularly where this one has melted (at the screw terminals) usually indicates a poor wiring connection, which then heats up. Take a picture of the wires that were connected to the terminal. Were they well-crimped in a ferule? Were they of sufficient size (AWG) to carry the load? Were they fully-tightened in the screw gate? See https://duet3d.dozuki.com/Wiki/Power_Wiring. If the current draw is below the rated value of the fuses, they won't blow; they can only provide protection from short circuit causing a high current draw. What current is your heated bed and hot end?
I don't see any damage to U3, so would expect that, once you can get power in on the main terminals, the board will be fine. I expect that the easiest thing to do will be to replace the screw terminal block yourself, which has probably failed internally, though it may have burned the copper trace on the board below it. Components for the Duet are listed here: https://duet3d.dozuki.com/Wiki/Connector_and_spare_part_numbers#Section_Screw_Terminals
Ian
TronXY X5S with Duet 3 MB6HC and Roto toolboard : Cartesian bed-slinger with Duet 3 Mini 5+ WiFi and 1LC : RRP Fisher Delta v1 with Duet 2 Maestro : Polargraph with Duet 2 WiFi
