Upgrades for my Large Kossel - Smart Effector etc

richardmckenna

@KeithW You can connect the PT1000 to the 0.8.5 but you may not get good results. See here

https://duet3d.dozuki.com/Wiki/Connecting_thermistors_or_PT1000_temperature_sensors#Section_PT1000_sensors

I have a large Kossel with the smart effector and delrin wheels. I'm in the process of upgrading to linear rails and purchase some nice black ones from Robotdigg. I got these MGN12-1H-B600 black anodised ones and they seem really good. https://www.robotdigg.com/product/1314/Black-anodized-linear-rail-7,-9,-12-and-15

On the smart effector. I was looking at the Flex3Drive and was talking to Jason at the time about mounting it but for some reason he wasn't interested in sharing the mount he had with me. So anyway. I ended up trying the Zesty Nimble but did not have good results. I know some people have good results but I found that as the effector moved around the flex cable was causing slight flexing in the smart effector pcb which caused an oscillating movement at the end of the nozzle. I went back to a bowden and all the artefacts in my prints were gone.

KeithW

@dc42 said in Upgrades for my Large Kossel - Smart Effector etc:

Do you mean that you get noise on the temperature readings? That's caused by either bad connections or interference. If the noise only occurs when heaters are powered or motors are running, it's interference; in which case, if it's one of the older daughter boards then you can add 2 capacitors to help suppress it.

I find the temperature sometimes goes 6000C and I have to take the bed off and reseat the connectors. I find this unacceptable so want a connection directly from the board. I don't have one of your daughter boards I have one I bought off of ebay as you weren't selling them at the time.

@dc42 said in Upgrades for my Large Kossel - Smart Effector etc:

You can do it with the Duet 085; but as the ADCs in that board are not self-calibrating, you will need to calibrate it yourself using the H and L parameters of the M305 command in order to get accurate readings. For example, adjust L to get a reading of 0C with a 1K 1% resistor connected in place of the PT1000; then adjust H to get a reading of 322C with a 2.2K 1% resistor. Rinse and repeat.

So does that mean the PT1000 will work better/easier with the Duet Wifi?

KeithW

@richardmckenna said in Upgrades for my Large Kossel - Smart Effector etc:

On the smart effector. I was looking at the Flex3Drive and was talking to Jason at the time about mounting it but for some reason he wasn't interested in sharing the mount he had with me. So anyway. I ended up trying the Zesty Nimble but did not have good results. I know some people have good results but I found that as the effector moved around the flex cable was causing slight flexing in the smart effector pcb which caused an oscillating movement at the end of the nozzle. I went back to a bowden and all the artefacts in my prints were gone.

Thanks for the info. I really like the Flex3drive, I have no problems printing Flexible Filament now and I can control the stringing on PETG much better than before and it seems to me that I get no more torque on the effector from the Flexible Drive shaft than I do with a Bowden Tube. I think I will try it out with the Flex drive and if that is problematic I can always revert to Bowden and give up Flexible Filament.

dc42

@KeithW said in Upgrades for my Large Kossel - Smart Effector etc:

I find the temperature sometimes goes 6000C and I have to take the bed off and reseat the connectors.

Which connectors do you have to reseat? If they are crimped, then you could have a bad crimp. Or perhaps your MAX31865 board is faulty.

richardmckenna

@KeithW Yeah like I said some people don't have the issue, not sure why it was effecting me, Zesty were very helpful at the time. Also there may be differences with the Flex3Drive shaft and the flex shaft Zesty are using.

No harm in trying it is there

KeithW

@richardmckenna said in Upgrades for my Large Kossel - Smart Effector etc:

No harm in trying it is there

Exactly. Also for a lot of my prints some small artifacting is acceptable anyway so it would depend on how bad it was. I find it interesting that the effector flexed before the magnets gave way.

KeithW

@dc42 said in Upgrades for my Large Kossel - Smart Effector etc:

Which connectors do you have to reseat? If they are crimped, then you could have a bad crimp. Or perhaps your MAX31865 board is faulty.

It is the connector to the board, I think maybe the connectors are a little loose on the pins, I guess I could solder them directly to the board.

KeithW

@dc42 said in Upgrades for my Large Kossel - Smart Effector etc:

HiWin are reckoned to be the best, but I have had good results with the Robotdigg 440C rails.

Which length did you use?

dc42

@KeithW said in Upgrades for my Large Kossel - Smart Effector etc:

@dc42 said in Upgrades for my Large Kossel - Smart Effector etc:

HiWin are reckoned to be the best, but I have had good results with the Robotdigg 440C rails.

Which length did you use?

My delta uses 1m vertical extrusions (900mm between top and bottom triangles), 300mm printable bed diameter, and 680mm long rails. See https://miscsolutions.wordpress.com/dc42s-large-kossel-build/. These rails would handle an extra 70mm vertical height, using the standard E3D hot end.

KeithW

@dc42 Min is very similar to yours in size so I suspect rails of the same length would work. I will measure when I get home.

Danal

Calculator for bed size, rail length, etc.

http://danalspub.com/DKcalc/?he=655&ve=1500&dr=720&lr=1000