Print quality issue
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Thanks!
@DocTrucker More and more things to keep track of! It may be a good idea to make a maintenance list with all the hardware to be checked in some "fixed" intervals..Now whether that will actually happen in the end or not is another matter
@OBELIKS I will try to see if I can capture it with my phone camera and I ll post back as soon as I get back in the evening!
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i recently upgrade my idler bolts to these
https://www.filastruder.com/collections/railcore/products/shoulder-screws-bolts?variant=17989603917895
with gates idler -
@Veti These are exactly the type i ordered as well, i am confident that the idlers will be much more robust.
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@OBELIKS This is as good of an image as i can get using my phone:
The small gap between the inner bore and the screw was enough to produce a fair amount of play (it is even visible that the screw is not completely perpendicular to the idler the way i am holding it).
The main problem is that I could not tighten up the screw as much as I should because the idler would not be turning anymore. This is no longer an issue using the flanged bearings. Moreover, even if I could screw it all the way, still I would never be sure that it will be totally concentric.
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@Dkos said in Print quality issue:
The main problem is that I could not tighten up the screw as much as I should because the idler would not be turning anymore.
A washer or short spacer between the bearing and the frame would probably have cured that.
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@dc42 The way it was setup it had a bit more than a 1mm clearing between the part face and the bearing, something like this:
I tried a washer on the top as well, but it was always blocking at the end.The way i got a bit around that it was to use locknuts and fine tuning until i get the minimum play i could get while still allowing rotation. But i could not remove all the play no matter how much time i spend "fine-tuning" it..
Maybe it was just the batch of my idlers that were bad i dont know..
Edit: "badge" -> "batch"
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@Dkos You ought to use shoulder bolts. What you are using is what I would call a set screw - one that is fully threaded. A true bolt or shoulder bolt has an unthreaded section which is much better bearing surface than a threaded section. A threaded bolt will always be undersize which is one reason why you have that gap.
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@deckingman Yes, that is what i figured as well. Currently I switched to bolts with an unthreaded section while i am waiting for the order of shoulder-bolts with 5mm shoulder diameter. Rookie mistake from my side when I first assembled my printer.
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@Dkos IMO, that was probably 50% of your problem - the idlers themselves were the other 50%. Glad you are sorted in any case.
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@deckingman I agree. Thanks
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@Dkos said in Print quality issue:
@deckingman Yes, that is what i figured as well. Currently I switched to bolts with an unthreaded section while i am waiting for the order of shoulder-bolts with 5mm shoulder diameter. Rookie mistake from my side when I first assembled my printer.
I've noticed the use of screws in bearings/pulleys/etc as a normal in 3D printers, when they are just not meant to be used that way. Any precision ID should be mounted on the correct size shaft or shoulder bolt with precision spacers to align them.
Obviously it'll work with screws, but I wonder how much finer a print can be had with precision mounting of the pulleys. I'll test the theory on my E3 soon enough.
Those little ally idlers are rubbish IMHO. I've got plenty of them here, and half the bearings are rough straight out of the bag.
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@Corexy For info, I use the OpenBuilds idlers. They come with 2 decent size bearings on each, and they are bigger diameter than the ally ones so the bend radius is kinder to the belts.
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@deckingman said in Print quality issue:
@Corexy For info, I use the OpenBuilds idlers. They come with 2 decent size bearings on each, and they are bigger diameter than the ally ones so the bend radius is kinder to the belts.
That's good to hear, because that's what I'll be using.