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    E0 Heater Fault problem

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    • Vetiundefined
      Veti
      last edited by

      can you show a heating curve where its successful and where its not from the web ui.

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      • Vetiundefined
        Veti @gorf26
        last edited by

        @gorf26 said in E0 Heater Fault problem:

        M350 X32 Y32 Z32 E32 I0 ; configure microstepping without interpolation

        unrelated. whats your reasoning for not wanting to run interpolation?

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        • gorf26undefined
          gorf26
          last edited by

          Here is a pic of the heat chart, i got to heat this time to run with no fault, i set the temp to 245C
          and as you can see it is jumping around it over shoots to 251 and then drops to 239 and back up and back down..

          unrelated. whats your reasoning for not wanting to run interpolation?
          never though about it would i be better off using?.

          DWCheater.png

          Thanks gary

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          • Vetiundefined
            Veti
            last edited by

            yes x16 with interpolation is preferable and in most cases quieter. dont forget to adjust the steps/mm

            the curve looks like one from a hotend without pid tuning

            issue M307 H1 to see that the values have actually been applied

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            • gorf26undefined
              gorf26
              last edited by

              ran m307 h1 and the values are there..

              also tried heatint to 245 a second time and now i get the heater fault it was at 40C.

              I tried a third time and got same results, and this time i had my multi meter connected in the temp setting and that read 40C also so seems like the temp is close at least at low temps if i can get it go past 40 again i will see what the meter says at the higher temps..

              thanks for the interpolation tip so you think i should drop down from x32 to x16 ok i will give it a shot when i get the heater working...

              may try a new wire, don't know where to go from here..

              Thanks gary

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              • Vetiundefined
                Veti @gorf26
                last edited by

                @gorf26 said in E0 Heater Fault problem:

                also tried heatint to 245 a second time and now i get the heater fault it was at 40C.

                can you share a picture of that?

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                • gorf26undefined
                  gorf26
                  last edited by

                  Screenshot 2020-09-14 134349.png

                  ran tune again got some different values, entered them into the config.g
                  and this is what i have now for a screen shot at 245C.. looks better, seems to be holding from 243.8 to 246.2 hits 246 drops to 243 then back to 246 keeps repeating that..
                  but ran 3 times after cooling and no heater fault.. will try a print later and see how that go's.

                  not as good as the pt100 but i guess not bad or is it?.

                  Thanks gary

                  theruttmeisterundefined 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                  • theruttmeisterundefined
                    theruttmeister @gorf26
                    last edited by

                    @gorf26

                    Seems reasonable.
                    How it looks during printing is much more important obvs.

                    And while a PT100 is going to be more accurate, there's no reason why a thermistor can't provide a nice stable reading and PID loop.

                    Isolate, substitute, verify.

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                    • gorf26undefined
                      gorf26
                      last edited by

                      Didn't go so good during print, the layers that were printed look fine, but print made it to layer 6 and then message heater fault, though i had captured the screen also but for some reason didn't get saved... haven't tried a new wire but looks like its next.. guess i go put one together..

                      Thanks gary

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                      • dc42undefined
                        dc42 administrators @gorf26
                        last edited by

                        The fix for oscillating temperature is to increase the M307 D parameter.

                        Duet WiFi hardware designer and firmware engineer
                        Please do not ask me for Duet support via PM or email, use the forum
                        http://www.escher3d.com, https://miscsolutions.wordpress.com

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                        • Phaedruxundefined
                          Phaedrux Moderator
                          last edited by

                          Is the hotend assembled correctly? There should be a gap between the block and the heatsink.

                          Do you have a silicone nozzle sock on the block? They can help a lot with keeping a stable temp.

                          Does the cooling fan kick on at layer 6? Does it blow on the block more than it should?

                          Did you start tuning from room temp, or was it already warm?

                          Did you do the tuning with the part cooling fan on at an average level like you'd have on during a print? That can help it keep up during a print.

                          Z-Bot CoreXY Build | Thingiverse Profile

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                          • gorf26undefined
                            gorf26
                            last edited by

                            Is the hotend assembled correctly? There should be a gap between the block and the heatsink.

                            Yep been using as is for a couple months no problem, as i stated in the first message it was fine with the pt100 thern but the wire broke and only thing i had on hand was the therm that came with ed3 v6 hotend so till i can get a replacement pt100 thats what i'm tring to get working..

                            Do you have a silicone nozzle sock on the block? They can help a lot with keeping a stable temp.

                            no sock been printing with PETG and find it was to sticky and messy for the sock.

                            Does the cooling fan kick on at layer 6? Does it blow on the block more than it should?

                            No I have found at least for me the PETG sticks and prints better with no fan.

                            Did you start tuning from room temp, or was it already warm?

                            start at room temp.

                            Did you do the tuning with the part cooling fan on at an average level like you'd have on during a print? That can help it keep up during a print.

                            No cooling fan during tuning, i have the fan running that's cooling the heat sink only..

                            I did make a new wire and hooked it up, did another tune and added the new values to config.g
                            let cool down to room temp and the set the temp to 240C, it overshot by around 2%C
                            and about 20 or 30 seconds seemed to stabilize at 240C was running 239.5 to 240,5.

                            Will try another test print tomorrow and see how that go's.
                            that's were i will find out if i get the fault, at least that's were i am now, no fault errors when tuning and none setting the temp in DWC..

                            my D is set to 7.6 how high can that go, or should i bother with only about 1% oscillation?

                            Thanks gary

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                            • Phaedruxundefined
                              Phaedrux Moderator
                              last edited by

                              @gorf26 said in E0 Heater Fault problem:

                              my D is set to 7.6 how high can that go, or should i bother with only about 1% oscillation?

                              If you're stable within 1c I wouldn't bother trying to adjust any of the tuned parameters.

                              Z-Bot CoreXY Build | Thingiverse Profile

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