New hemera settings
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Yes indeed also put a small amount ik f heatoastvon it befoyr i slid it in,, good fit
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Yes the other manufacture used the same metal
3mm carriage in a hemera. little heat paste fit goodThanks for the input guys i gotta finish later its 3 am
again. lol -
what i changed.
The whole x carrage
It now ri s on two linear rail
Of course the hemera
A new pt 1000 sensor
Changed from a capasitive z-stop to a nozzle activated z-stop controled by a limit Sw.
Also upgraded the x axes stepper to a 2amp.
And a 10mm belt to compensate for the added weights ...
Z is dailed in nicely and current have been
adjusted 1100 m.a. on the x stepper -
Oh and the steps on the extruder per the hamera e3d site
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What does your part cooling setup look like? The hull of the benchy up to that line has quite steep overhangs until the point where it recovers, so this could be an effect of bad cooling or overhang performance. Make sure to print the outer wall last in this section of the benchy so the overhangs can adher to the inner wall as well.
(Here is a great resource interpreting Benchy prints and what the individual features test for https://github.com/3DprinterDiscord/wiki/wiki/3D-Benchy).
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@ziggymanpopo said in New hemera settings:
Also upgraded the x axes stepper to a 2amp.
adjusted 1100 m.a. on the x stepperyou should run the steppers at around 75% of the rated current
try 1700ma -
So i know why 70% must be a reason.. does it change
For a belt versa a ballscrew -
@ziggymanpopo
duet2 only goes in steps of 100ma -
Thsnks for the benchy imfo. It will help.
The cooling is like the fang two curved airducts and a squirrel cage type fan it seems to be way mor than i need for pla or petg -
I seam to get rhe best results whem i turn the fan realy low 30% Or so
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I thinnk it would be prudent to get conformation of exactly where my temp sits then go after the cooling setting. I think my bigest prolem is figuaring out where my settings should be since everything has changed cant go by what i had ...right ??? The question is where to start my calibation
I thought after reviewing the links i was sent about pid that We depend on the value of the given device
(sensor or termistor) to be correct i guess whats throwing me is when i print anywhere close to 210°c
The effects are like its way too hot.. so i an thinking of buying test equiptment capable of telling me acctual temps. (Multi meter with a sensor.)
Get that dialed in. what do you thinkn good place to start ??? -
The prints keep improving but cant seam to get rid of the large error on the bow
Anyone have any idea what caused it
Her i ran two benches at 200and 205c
Thebsteper curennt change helped a little
But for some reason the line on the bow justnis persistend.
Ive gone up to 220c to the point where it cisablt melts the deck and its still there
so dont think its temp related
Thought maybe is mechanically hung up. But its always in the same place
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I also moved the benchy to a div spot on the build platform
Also ran the same slicer program from laptop to rule out slicer. ????
Im baffled running out of things to check and ideas -
Current rating is 1.33amps is it possable this js where my prob is extruder ma???
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Extruder current??
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you are running at 950 which is about 70%. that should be fine
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@ziggymanpopo said in New hemera settings:
The prints keep improving but cant seam to get rid of the large error on the bow
Anyone have any idea what caused ithttps://help.prusa3d.com/en/article/the-benchy-hull-line_124745
Try some different test print models.
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Hey phaedrux... Thank you for the benchy link ..That explains it.. see the pick.... it ptinted fairly well i couldn't explain the lines at all now i understand
You will notice the missing lines on the tray
To complicate the analysis,
the hamera i got is one of the miss mached gear ones (3%of one run had this ) guess I'm one of the lucky ones ??
I was testing feed rate and heard the extruder start popping the gears at a 30mm per sec. feedrate ..
With your benchy link i beleave i have an awnser
Thanks Again. Ed
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Cute dice tower.
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Like yours beter
