Thank you once again for your patience and all the help. 3d printing is new to me. And my computer skills imprive daily. Cura now loads a file

Thank you 😁👍

So i read the post you sent i understand the theory behind, but being a dyslectic, math would not be my strong suit.. 😬😫😬🙄... i have esteps of 415 in my m92 and a total of 97 mm total extrution out of a 100mm,,,, I'm comming up three mm short
Would someone be kind enough to run the equation for me. Im afraid i have no clue.
I'm not be able to understand the fractional equation...
Thanks guys,,, in advance.
A work around would be fine too ..i though about just canging the value intill I'm supper close but that wouldn't nessicary be correct either..
....just closer 😁
Im a firm believer in finding your own solutions but with this kind of thing this forum has great value for myself and others like me.

VOLTAGE CHANGE ON HEATED BED
I have. A cr10-s5 Some timen ago i asked if one could change the voltage on a stock cr10s5. If you remove the build platform you will see 4 solder connections indicating that there might be two coils
Leading one to think that the change is possable from 12v to 24v. Im sad to report ( at least on my machien ) it is not an option ..the pads are paired and can not be wired in seires. For those that would like to heat a little faster looking at a complete reolacment of your heating pad is the most likely going to be the only option. Sorry guys but no cheep fix here. Thanks for your input. its not often we get this level of support keep up the good work and thanks duet for a great product

Looks like a hemera copy. I wasnt impressed wwith the quality of prints that it did complete.... so i won't waist any more time with this design but thanks for the input. Second the three most important parts to our printers are the electronics ,,the. Extractor and the hotend so i prefer the original just to suport industy
Look at the wonderful job this site does..
Wouldnt it be fair if we supported real products
Instead of copy's ...at least for those three items
I believe they have earned it 🙂

For refreance the 95% extrution solved most of the gunk on the nozzle thanks for the input guys 👍

I understand"finally." Thanks guys
If my memory serves me right ..when i first bought it as a cr10-5s curra would communicate and move The printer thru the curra software, but with the usb

so here is where i lost it
When the dwc was installed. That was no longer possable.
So i move my printer and write to the sd csrd thru the dwc. never the slicer.. just forget that that was with the original control card

And if i wish (but only) transfer a finished gcode file
Via curra (using the addon) ... to the dwc onto the sd card
Then launch the print ....

Ultimatly i loose the printer controls via usb for curra... No biggie! just use duet wifi interface instead

Last... to understand the curra addon,,it only writes your choosen gcode file to the sd card in the duet via the wifi funtion and that is all it is capable of

Would that be correct? 😳😁

So thanks for all the input
I managed to putball the pieces together and have the printer running consistent 1st layers.
Everyone who chimed in contributed to a bit of the picture in the true spirit of this site.
Once again i have had success at one more strugle to understand... thanks again for all the help
The last piece i was missing was the actual hieght the capasitive sensor gives the best readings.
2MM was what i found out.
Thanks all...... Ed........

16055140473776388353493397964383.jpg Could not find a sili! sock for my mosquito hotend so i down loaded a mold i thought it turned.out realy good for.high temp silicone 😁 got the mold off of thingiverse in case you need one too
1..My question is if i add the sock now i should retune my p.i.d.???? And
2...when i give the gcode comand does it override the previous entry automaticaly...

Understud. And thanks for all the help
Its running tons better. You guys rock 😁👍😊

Ok... thank you

Heres an odd question
Am i chasing gosts could the problem be the pla im using??? i dont believe it's wet filaments im running it thru a dryer durring printing

Iven read that entire bit from prussa
The only cure i saw was the other stl wich is the second two pics.
Could it be we need to chainge the jerk and acceleration a bit more because of the ball srew??
Could that be my cause ???
By the way pharadrux the chainges we made last time were awsome its running better than it ever has thanks to you 😁 i noticed that when it makes a move to a new location it hauls butt 😳😳it has no prob making the move, but man it's fast hope thats ok

The top pic was the creative tools stl.

The old stl (crative tools) dose the bridging just fine
Over the window but the pruca stl doesn't???? No idea obe ran out of thing to try 😳

So sonce i rebuild my printer ive been fighting a bowline that looks more like a lione shift. Its not though..always the same spot and much more than expexted
How do i get rid of it.??
Ive swiched from the torture test from creative tools to the pruca slicer modle that was suposeto fix most of it.
I also noticed a imprivement in rinning with the diferent stl
Also increased the infill to 40% to see if it would make a diferance it did not
Hers some pics

Creativentools

These two are frome the prusa slicer
Note the droop in the window and in the anchor holes
I believe one of my setting is still way off and causing the bowline issue. I believe the slicer tirns off the fan in the window but only on the prisa stl
But dont lnow that for sure
Any comments highly appreciated. thanks

I installed the z swich on tip of the extruder
Which sits on two linerer rails so when the nozzle
Touches the bed it trips the sw
This works really well and is extremely accurate
I went this way because of the fluctuations with most sensors. be aware this is a ton of work but well worth it in my opinion. im happy with my mod but took 4 months to put together and i have lots if time. The other sensor i used was a n abl capasitive
I found out i was as much as 1.5 mm off at random
Other times it worke fair but not supper accurate
The other option is the bl toutch im affraid i would go thru a bunch breaking the pins..🙂 good luck thought i would share that. 👍

I found the sensors all gad its addvantages and dis -advantages after som monkeyong arround i decided to try this