Thank you once again for your patience and all the help. 3d printing is new to me. And my computer skills imprive daily. Cura now loads a file
Best posts made by ziggymanpopo
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RE: Cura and 4.1
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RE: Feedrate
So i read the post you sent i understand the theory behind, but being a dyslectic, math would not be my strong suit.. ... i have esteps of 415 in my m92 and a total of 97 mm total extrution out of a 100mm,,,, I'm comming up three mm short
Would someone be kind enough to run the equation for me. Im afraid i have no clue.
I'm not be able to understand the fractional equation...
Thanks guys,,, in advance.
A work around would be fine too ..i though about just canging the value intill I'm supper close but that wouldn't nessicary be correct either..
....just closer
Im a firm believer in finding your own solutions but with this kind of thing this forum has great value for myself and others like me. -
12v to w24v heating
VOLTAGE CHANGE ON HEATED BED
I have. A cr10-s5 Some timen ago i asked if one could change the voltage on a stock cr10s5. If you remove the build platform you will see 4 solder connections indicating that there might be two coils
Leading one to think that the change is possable from 12v to 24v. Im sad to report ( at least on my machien ) it is not an option ..the pads are paired and can not be wired in seires. For those that would like to heat a little faster looking at a complete reolacment of your heating pad is the most likely going to be the only option. Sorry guys but no cheep fix here. Thanks for your input. its not often we get this level of support keep up the good work and thanks duet for a great product -
RE: Duet wifi and slicer progams
I understand"finally." Thanks guys
If my memory serves me right ..when i first bought it as a cr10-5s curra would communicate and move The printer thru the curra software, but with the usbso here is where i lost it
When the dwc was installed. That was no longer possable.
So i move my printer and write to the sd csrd thru the dwc. never the slicer.. just forget that that was with the original control cardAnd if i wish (but only) transfer a finished gcode file
Via curra (using the addon) ... to the dwc onto the sd card
Then launch the print ....Ultimatly i loose the printer controls via usb for curra... No biggie! just use duet wifi interface instead
Last... to understand the curra addon,,it only writes your choosen gcode file to the sd card in the duet via the wifi funtion and that is all it is capable of
Would that be correct?
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RE: Pucking up plastic with my nozzle.
For refreance the 95% extrution solved most of the gunk on the nozzle thanks for the input guys
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RE: Best z sensor fornglas bed
So thanks for all the input
I managed to putball the pieces together and have the printer running consistent 1st layers.
Everyone who chimed in contributed to a bit of the picture in the true spirit of this site.
Once again i have had success at one more strugle to understand... thanks again for all the help
The last piece i was missing was the actual hieght the capasitive sensor gives the best readings.
2MM was what i found out.
Thanks all...... Ed........ -
RE: Duet wifi and slicer progams
My second question would be for dc42
As far as 3rd party slicer programs, are there any plans to incorperate a wifi link that we can use with
Oter slicer Programs in the future such as mattercontrol or other independant proprietary Slicers. I believe as of now the only
Slicer that will work via wifi is curra with the proper add on. -
Silacone sock for mosquito
16055140473776388353493397964383.jpg Could not find a sili! sock for my mosquito hotend so i down loaded a mold i thought it turned.out realy good for.high temp silicone got the mold off of thingiverse in case you need one too
1..My question is if i add the sock now i should retune my p.i.d.???? And
2...when i give the gcode comand does it override the previous entry automaticaly... -
RE: duet 2 ethernet getting power but pins don't
I might.be off base but did you check the fuses on the board there are 2 of them pull them off the board and check them with a meter both of them...
Also you might have a Moffett ( small circuit board w a heat sink on it ...it is between the bed and the board itself
That's where I'd start to look. You can look at the ongoing termi Al's with you volt meter, if
You do have power there you could have a blown Mosfet
Latest posts made by ziggymanpopo
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RE: duet 2 ethernet getting power but pins don't
Assuming that one is your hotend fan
You would have to turn on thermostatic control for that output
The other would be for your part cooling fan and has a dif line of code that sets the speed of the fan depending on the filaments your gonna use. And needs to be variable also.Look under M106
The constant on fan would be used if you had a fan for the duet board as and example... -
RE: duet 2 ethernet getting power but pins don't
Correction the pug on the right is hot all the time the tree outputs on the left are pwm (variable)
And need to be programed in your config.g -
RE: duet 2 ethernet getting power but pins don't
OK then there are two set the ones that are hot all the time and two that need to be controlled thru the g code M106 PO AND M106P1 look in configuration g under fans what does it say there
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RE: duet 2 ethernet getting power but pins don't
Is it just the fans? That don't work?
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RE: duet 2 ethernet getting power but pins don't
I might.be off base but did you check the fuses on the board there are 2 of them pull them off the board and check them with a meter both of them...
Also you might have a Moffett ( small circuit board w a heat sink on it ...it is between the bed and the board itself
That's where I'd start to look. You can look at the ongoing termi Al's with you volt meter, if
You do have power there you could have a blown Mosfet -
RE: Heater Faults
I believe the pt100 needs a daughter board according to the documentation
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RE: Heater Faults
Assuming you used the 3mm thermistor (temp sensor) provided with the hemera
With is what I did
My g code says m503 P0 B4138 r4700
For the bed heater with a limit of 0 to 80 c
And M503 P1 x501 R 4700
M143 H1 S400 ;set temp limits for heater 1 to 400c
If you aren't using the thermistor that came with the e3d heater block that came with the hemera.. there might be a dif
Entry for the thermistor that you would have to
Get from the manufacturer that's the first thing then... so for manufacturer that sold you the heater block second I believe that there are two kinds of thermistor a pt100 and a pt1000 if you have a pt100 you might need a daughter board to get it to work or vice versa .i dont remeber wich one but ill will look...That info is in the duet documentation section attached to this forum ill look to see whick one needs the daughter board ...in case you don't know how to get to that info the "three bars" at the top left of the forum page will get you to the documentation portion of the forum. Let me know if you get stuck, also I would recommend you use the thermistor that came with the hemera....I'll post the info about the daughter board -
RE: 120 v. Heater upgrade
Missed the bit about the termal overload good idea and thanks for the temp calculator that will help. I was thinking best would be a bi-thermal with a reset button. That way it won't come back on when it starts to cool great ideas. Thank you.
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RE: Heater Faults
I also believe the entry in the g code for the hemera hotend temp sensor has a different # that Need's to be entered in config g file then run your pid.. you can find d that in the docs section I would have to look at my gcode tomorrow and see what that is or ask the manufacturer to supply that. is if someone knows it
I'm running a hemera also -
120 v. Heater upgrade
Hey there everyone !!
So sometime ago I started to convert from a 12v
Bed heater on a creality cr10-5s to a 120v 1000w unit.
Well actually haven started the process quit yet
I've got everything I need but wanted to check to see if someone could give me some insight
Here are my concerns..
First off the old bed heater is seriously underpowered.. the aluminum 2ft x2ft acts more like a heatsink than any thing else. surprisingly, the bed is fairly flat but takes almost 20 min. to heat up and I'm lucky to reach 70c
Plans are to use a ssr. then, after that I'm just guessing. (Bad idea) !! I would think, so if switching to a 1000w 120v heater, will I warp the bed?? By applying to much heating power too quickly, orDr do I need to sw. To a dif. heating protocol in the g code?? Or am I OK with how it's set up now? Also if there is someone out there who has done this and already had and fix the pitfalls I might encounter. I k own that after the upgrade I will have to retune my p.i.d to avoid a heater fault and ha e that down.
please feel free to chime in... any advice will be greatly appreciated. Thanks