ST3Di Modelsmart 280 - Duet Maestro repair/upgrade
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If the wires just disappear into some black goo like the heater then i doubt we can identify them visually. But given the construction, a glass bead ntc is the most likely candidate if you want to replace it - but if the mounting is just some sort of adhesive or not idk.
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Pretty much
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well you can try your ir thermometer to see if the temperature is close
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@Veti On the heater block? As in wire up to the board and heat to 220? measure resistance ....
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sorry i was under the impression you had an ir thermometer
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@Veti I have one of these
https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B01AT9TON0/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
So heat in the oven and then if it measures 220 check resistance. Sorry if I'm been dense
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unless you have an all metal hotend, go for 200
let it stay at that for a min or so and measure the temperature on the nozzle with the ir thermometer.
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need to set the correct emissivity for the nozzle to get an reasonably accurate reading, but by the looks of it thats likely to be less accurate then just picking a beta value
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Small update. I had a bit of time and I wanted to just test a few things. I decided to run the bed heater with the 'default' setting from the config tool. This is what I started with.
code_text ; Heaters M308 S0 P"bedtemp" Y"thermistor" T100000 B4138 ; configure sensor 0 as thermistor on pin bedtemp M950 H0 C"bedheat" T0 ; create bed heater output on bedheat and map it to sensor 0 M307 H0 B0 S1.00 ; disable bang-bang mode for the bed heater and set PWM limit M140 H0 ; map heated bed to heater 0 M143 H0 S80 ; set temperature limit for heater 0 to 80C M308 S1 P"e0temp" Y"thermistor" T137000 B3478 ; configure sensor 1 as thermistor on pin e0temp M950 H1 C"e0heat" T1 ; create nozzle heater output on e0heat and map it to sensor 1 M307 H1 B0 S1.00 ; disable bang-bang mode for heater and set PWM limit M143 H1 S250 ; set temperature limit for heater 1 to 250C M308 S2 P"e1temp" Y"thermistor" T137000 B3478 ; configure sensor 2 as thermistor on pin e1temp M950 H2 C"e1heat" T2 ; create nozzle heater output on e1heat and map it to sensor 2 M307 H2 B0 S1.00 ; disable bang-bang mode for heater and set PWM limit M143 H2 S250I ran the autotune for the bed. It gave me this override and I added the M501 to the end of my config
; config-override.g file generated in response to M500 at 2021-01-07 19:46 ; This is a system-generated file - do not edit ; Heater model parameters M307 H0 R0.307 C525.917:525.917 D13.65 S1.00 V24.2 B0 M307 H1 R2.429 C140.000:140.000 D5.50 S1.00 V0.0 B0 M307 H2 R2.429 C140.000:140.000 D5.50 S1.00 V0.0 B0 ; Workplace coordinates G10 L2 P1 X0.00 Y0.00 Z0.00 G10 L2 P2 X0.00 Y0.00 Z0.00 G10 L2 P3 X0.00 Y0.00 Z0.00 G10 L2 P4 X0.00 Y0.00 Z0.00 G10 L2 P5 X0.00 Y0.00 Z0.00 G10 L2 P6 X0.00 Y0.00 Z0.00 G10 L2 P7 X0.00 Y0.00 Z0.00 G10 L2 P8 X0.00 Y0.00 Z0.00 G10 L2 P9 X0.00 Y0.00 Z0.00 M486 S-1During the bed test and after with my own tests using a IR thermometer gun I was getting within 1-2c of what the Duet was reporting so I was quite pleased to see that.
I disconnected the bed and decided to see what the hotend was reporting. I've removed the hot end part of the carriage from the printer. I connected the heater and sensors to the E0 connections. For these purposes I have used Dupont wires, with bootlace and other supplied connector. Upon starting the board up I got this error.
Error: Temperature reading fault on heater 0: sensor open circuit
I've searched the error and it seems to tell me that there is no connection, there are reports of blown fuses but I don't believe that to be the issue. I have checked for resistance across the connections and it seems there's a connection.
I've now left it as I don't want to do any damage. Any advice on what I need to check? Thanks.
Pics
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I've already realised my mistake! I connected to the wrong part of the board. I used E0 Heat when I should use E0 Temp!
I'll leave the other post up as it's what I've been doing and also may serve as a lesson to others....
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@Blacksheep99 said in ST3Di Modelsmart 280 - Duet Maestro repair/upgrade:
M308 S1 P"e0temp" Y"thermistor" T137000 B3478 ; configure sensor 1 as thermistor on pin e0temp
i suggest you try the most common ones for the thermistors.
thats B 3950
epocs 100k
semitec 104-gt2your settings seems very wrong.
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@Veti Thanks. I'm thinking the easiest thing would be to buy two new thermistors for the hot end. Could you recommend ones available on amazon uk? I do have the offer of a k type thermocouple meter from a friend.
I think the bed seems to behave and I doubt I'll need to go above 60c so I'm less concerned about that.
Tonight I hope to look at the servo and probe. I intend to add a microswitch and use that as the X stop so the probe has a single purpose.
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not amazon but e3d
https://e3d-online.com/products/100k-ohm-ntc-thermistor-semitec?_pos=6&_sid=d490c2b6e&_ss=r
https://e3d-online.com/products/fibreglass-sleeving-for-insulating-thermistors-100mm?_pos=11&_sid=d490c2b6e&_ss=rbut we dont know if it will fit, because of the black gunk we cant see a thing
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@Veti Thanks. I'll look at E3D. If I take one of the hot ends apart would that be the way to go? I take when buying the thermistor I'd also need some kind of sleeve and is there a thermal paste of some nature? I've never built a hot end so it's new to me.
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the sleeve i linked
however the hotend is different from most other hotends so you will have to see how to fix it
maybe you could also mount a standard e3d block on there.
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@Veti Sorry, I overlooked the 2nd link.
I did wonder about that. I'm going to take one apart and have a closer look.
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Regarding the servo deployed probe. I'm looking for guidance or examples of how this is done. I'm looking a the guides and I cannot immediately see how I approach this.
This is the servo
https://emaxmodel.com/products/emax-es08ma-ii-12g-mini-metal-gear-analog-servo-for-rc-model-robot-pwm-servoSeems it needs 5v to power it. There are the three wires to power and deploy it. I then have the 2 for the microswitch to probe the bed level. My thought is I connect the servo to the Z probe on the board but do I then need to use an endstop to connect the probe switch? Could I use the +3.3v and Z Probe in for the switch? Thanks.
This looks a viable solution to me
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I've been trying to get the probe working but for now I have decided to set my config with no z probe and use the manual option. Upon doing this I notice that when clicking to move the bed +25 it's not actually moving this distance.
My bed is on a lead screw which is connected to the stepper via a small belt. The mechanics of this are underneath the printer which will mean taking bit apart. Is there a way I can work out what I need to change to make this correct? Thanks.
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can you post a picture of the belt assembly?
and you can wire the servo to the z probe connector.
use zprobe.mod for the servo signal line. just like for a bltouch.
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X Axis
Y Axis - 2 belts and then a small belt to the stepper
Z Axis - There must be a belt under the black base. I'll have to dismantle it to check.
servo and probe wired up. Think this is right although the servo now doesn't respond. Temp wiring...
