Wiring DuetWifi/Voltage again
-
Hi there
I am not new to 3D Printing but i am new to build a printer to learn some new things. So i am currently building a kind of Hypercube (mixed or remixed parts from Tech2C Hypercube, the Evolution, S.T.E.V.E. CoreXY etc.). Taking the - in my opinion - best parts from each printer for my needs
Now i am getting slowly to the point of wiring the whole electronics.
First things first:
I don't really have a clue of electronics. I know someone who does, but he has no clue of 3D Printers and currently not much time for this ^^
And i don't want to fry the board
Electronics:
Duet Wifi (obviously ^^)
PanelDue 5"
Original BLTouch (3.3-5v i think)
Sunon Part Cooling Fan MF50151V1-A99 (12v)
Noctua NF-A4x10 FLX Hotend Fan (12v)
Original E3DV6 (Bowden) (12v)
NEMA17 2.5A (42BYGHW811L20P1-X2)
Dual-Z-Axis
PSU: ATX Corsair VS550 (eventually getting an additional Meanwell RS-50-24 with 52,8 W, 24V, 2,2A as alternative)
Mosfet from banggood for the planned heatbedPlanned:
Silicone heatbed 250x250 mm, yet unknown voltage
LED near the hotend and/or the frameI've done a lot of reading (silently here, used google, other forums), but the more i read, the more i am getting confused
Or maybe i am only confusing myself
The fact that every part of above electronics has different wiring in terms of color doesn't make it easier for me to understand the whole thing in a sec
Currently searching and downloading the schematics of each part.Connectors will be changed to JST (PH, 2.00 mm i think), the connectors which where send with the board. The Stepper motors etc. are using black flat connectors (called Dupont?) and they don't fit on the board.
I am aware that the duet is capable of using 5v till 24v. I think mixed v are also possible. But i think going with the same voltage for (almost) all electronic parts is the best solution. And i also know that these kind of questions are annoying, so sorry for that question again:
But… which voltage/PSU should i use for my build? For the NEMAs i think 24v should be the best option. But then again the most parts are 12v. sighAnd i have not made up my mind of the voltage of the heatbed. A heatbed of 12v or 24v should not make that much of a difference in terms of heating up the build plate (a 230v should then the best solution for speed?)?
I know that i could use one free stepper slot for the second z-axis-motor. But is it also possible to wire the two NEMAs together into one slot (e. g. with a y-cable or something similar)? Or maybe i will switch to a belted system for the z. Don't know yet. I am building this Hypercube slowly for the last 2 months and it changed constantly in terms of specs and dimensions ^^
Thanks in advance for any kind of hints, tips and tricks
-
To answer your last question yes and there is a thread that discusses it i believe it was added to firmware 1.19beta9 or 10 you can find more info in that thread.
if you want to keep things simple go all 24 or all 12 being new to a build you might want to keep things as simple as possible.
supply wattage of a PSU depends on what motors, bed heater etc you decide to go with so why dont you figure out what you want to do before worrying about PSU
the black dupont connectors do fit on the board but you can cut them off and replace with the ones that came with the duet for a better fit
-
Connectors will be changed to JST (PH, 2.00 mm i think), the connectors which where send with the board. The Stepper motors etc. are using black flat connectors (called Dupont?) and they don't fit on the board.
As Whitewolf said, the Dupont connectors do fit, however they don't lock in place. The connectors we use are 2.54mm Molex KK series or compatible.
I am aware that the duet is capable of using 5v till 24v. I think mixed v are also possible. But i think going with the same voltage for (almost) all electronic parts is the best solution. And i also know that these kind of questions are annoying, so sorry for that question again:
But… which voltage/PSU should i use for my build? ? For the NEMAs i think 24v should be the best option. But then again the most parts are 12v. sighIf you want to use a low voltage bed heater, your bed is a little large to use 12V, so choose 24V power. If you ever want to use the facility to resume after power failure, 24V is also recommended, Otherwise, 12V is OK if you choose to use a mains powered bed heater.
In your situation I think I would use 24V power and a 24V bed heater. For a 250x250mm bed plate, I would choose a heater about 220x220mm (to allow space around the edged for fixing and bed clips) and a heater power of about 250W. I would change the fans and the hot end heater for 24V versions.
I know that i could use one free stepper slot for the second z-axis-motor. But is it also possible to wire the two NEMAs together into one slot (e. g. with a y-cable or something similar)? Or maybe i will switch to a belted system for the z. Don't know yet. I am building this Hypercube slowly for the last 2 months and it changed constantly in terms of specs and dimensions ^^
The Duet WiFi provides two Z motor connectors, connected to a single driver in series. But if you connect them to separate motor outputs instead, you can use the automatic levelling feature, to avoid them getting out of sync.
-
Why not go with a single Z stepper and connect however many leadscrews you want to use with belts? I recently upgraded my D-Bot from a 2 leadscrew/2 stepper configuration to 3 leadscrews/1 stepper, and couldn't be happier. It's more stable, and I'm assured of my leadscrews not getting out sync with each other. With a stepper per leadscrew if one skips a step and the other doesn't your bed can begin to tilt. You might think that that a stepper per leadscrew is the "overbuilt but awesome" solution, but it really isn't. And, particularly with a belted solution that allows easy setup of a reduction ratio in the gearing, one stepper doesn't give up really anything at all in terms of torque and holding power, plus it gains bonuses in terms of precision and accuracy (a reduction ratio means less Z movement per step, which translates to greater precision).
Noctua fans are nice and quiet, but they aren't the best either for part cooling fans or cold end fans. They give up too much airflow in order to be nice and quiet. I've used them in both applications and compared their performance with higher airflow (even if noisier) fans, and the difference is remarkable. I do use two Noctua 40mm fans to cool my Duet Wifi board in its case, but the airflow needs aren't quite as crucial there, and I enjoy the silence.
As others have said, you should seriously consider going with the 24V system. I didn't know enough about 12V vs 24V when I built my printer, and I went with 12V. I wish I'd gone with 24V, and I'm seriously considering buying a new PSU and fans to go along with the new heated bed I'll need for my upcoming build plate upgrade (I picked up a 1/2" thick milled cast aluminum jig plate that will need more heater power than I have at present) and do a total switchover.
-
Thx for the answers and tips
Already thinking about 24V over all and the belted z-axis/leadscrews
-
Why not go with a single Z stepper and connect however many leadscrews you want to use with belts? I recently upgraded my D-Bot from a 2 leadscrew/2 stepper configuration to 3 leadscrews/1 stepper, and couldn't be happier. It's more stable, and I'm assured of my leadscrews not getting out sync with each other. With a stepper per leadscrew if one skips a step and the other doesn't your bed can begin to tilt.
The problem with multiple Z leadscrews is not that one skips a step and the other doesn't - if that happens you have bigger problems to deal with. The problem is that when you power the machine up, the motors jump to the nearest multiple of 4 full steps that matches the motor current, and they may jump in different directions. The new facility to auto level the bed solves that problem, but uses up another driver. The belted system is a good solution too.
-
As promised ^^ I am starting wiring
Yesterday all the parts (except heatbed) arrived and now i have some spare time 24V psu, mosfet and board are wired. Board is connected to the duet web control interface, wifi server is connected and working.
PanelDue is working too.So far so good.
Now i have to do some re-wiring of the endstops and the stepper motors and now i am kinda stuck.
Removing the wires from the dupont and re-attaching them in the right order is really very easy. Never thought that and i don't have to re-crimp all of the cables
Endstops are working but the stepper motors (42BYGHW811 2.5A) not
According to the left wiring diagram of the stepper motor and the duet wifi, the black and green are one coil and the red and blue are one coil:
I re-wired the cables in the connector in this order (to test the wiring i did this only for one motor at the moment, the others are not connected):
Original wiring:
Do i miss a step somewhere from the wiki/board? Orr missunderstood something?
Oh and i am using the PanelDue for moving the motors and the config-file is still the one provided with the board if this matters. Connected to the board are only the PanelDue, the x-endstop and the x-axis-stepper at the moment.
-
Does a M119 command show the X end stop being activated? That'll keep the motor from moving.
-
Have you homed the axis before trying to move it?
-
When you try to move the motor, does it vibrate noisily, or it is silent?
What config.g file are you using? If it's set up as a delta printer then the jog buttons won't work because delta printers have to be homed before it is safe to move them.
-
Don't think you need to change the order of the wires in the plug at all put them back and try again. and Follow DC42's suggestions to the letter.
-
Does a M119 command show the X end stop being activated? That'll keep the motor from moving.
Endstops are open.
I tried the tip from Jackal and homed the axis first and then i could move the steppers.
When i first moved one of them, all moved ^^ Changed the settings and now they are all moving as expected
@dc42
I used the original config.g file with the command to change to corexy.I configured new setting with https://configurator.reprapfirmware.org/ and added the T0 command at the end of the config file.
@Dougal1957
You were right, no need for changing the order of the wires!Now figuring out the BLTouch and still waiting for the heatbed
All in all i am still impressed with the Duet. The hotend temperature is constant, even without a pid-tuning.
The extruder steps are way off (instead of 100 mm it extrudes 460 mm) but i will figure this out too. Didn't had the time yet to dig into all the settings.
Great board, great forum. Thanks for all your help so far
-
M92 E*** divided by 4.6 will get your extrusion close.
-
I know
