please help me blv setting
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(also it doesn't look like a single wall vase mode print)
<>RatRig V-Minion Fly Super5Pro RRF<> V-Core 3.1 IDEX k*****r <> RatRig V-Minion SKR 2 Marlin<>
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@oliof
the bottom part it's just that I didn't turn on the fan -
@oliof how do i have to?
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@oliof 16/12/2021, 10:05:15 Warning: Turning on the print cooling fan did not increase hot end cooling. Check that the correct fan has been configured.
Auto tuning heater 1 completed after 3 idle and 10 tuning cycles in 671 seconds. This heater needs the following M307 command:
M307 H1 B0 R2.737 C155.7:155.7 D8.86 S1.00 V23.5
Send M500 to save this command in config-override.g
i have this error the pid tune -
I see you are currently getting help in the STM RRF Discord. Please follow the advice you get there and let's continue here when you're done.
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@oliof thank you to you I ask for help or I can nothing bad I take the advice of all those who can help me.
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no worries, it just doesn't help doing things in parallel.
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@oliof please excuse me just that it will be 2 years since trying to adjust this printer and I was looking for help for a while so I ask a can everywhere I start to lose hope and it is true that the people are really nice to me also you but for the moment I still have the same problem as 2 years ago.
thank you very much for your help it's really nice
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Due to the size of my bed, I use 2 thermistors. 1 in the heat mat, Keenovo and I have a slot in the top of the bed to take a second.
For safety I use the thermistor in the heatmat, but the one in the top to give me a better idea of what the heat on the bed is.
Regardless what material I am printing, I let the bed and printer warm up for 50mins to an hour. My bed is 8mm thick
All Z tweaks are done at temp. ie Z Offset. Bed at 100 nozzle at 150.As @oliof mentioned, 80 degress is way to hot for PLA.
If you use SuperSlicer, there is a lot of calibration tools in it, to help get your bed level, extrusion rates, bridging speeds etc.
Has helped me a lot. -
@paulhew hello indeed it works well after heating 1 hour to 60 of the rooms are glued to the bed thank you for your advice. But the cubes are full of lines as before.
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I have looked, but what printer is it please?
Picture also? -
@paulhew hello blv mgn cube
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3 things that could be an issue.
Has the gantry been de-racked?
Do the Z rods move smoothly, no untoward noise? Bed securely fixed.
How old is the PLA? and is it a good quality?I keep my PLA and PETG in a sealed box when not in use. Has a rechargeable silica box in it.
And before use, I throw it in the de-humidifier for an hour.RailCore II - Duet Mini + 1LC, Voron V0.1 - Duet Mini
Voron 2.4 disassembled..... Waiting for the RailCore Mini.... -
@paulhew hello yes my z it's sfu 1204
yes it moves noiselessly well oiled it pla ila 2 months but I use it on my cr10s and the parts are perfect the bed well fixed nothing abnormal -
@sgk Has the gantry been de-racked? what does it want? racked
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@sgk I changed my hotend dragon hf plus extrudezr orbitor and my rods slide perfectly
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@paulhew
I made another cube to see I did the pid hotend again -
@sgk
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@sgk From All the writings and photos If I was in your shoes, I would do the following
- Both bed and hotend temp check with external measurement and then calibration
- SFU are stiff, so some kind of anti-wobble device for the nut, it can be nylock nuts or some printed set
- Flow calibration and E steps
- finally X/Y stage, belts tensioning check
Muldex IDEX Duet2+Duex5
Custom CoreXY 600x400 Hemera , Duet3+Toolboard+1HCL closed loop
Sapphire Pro with Duet2, with closed-loop motors
custom high temp E3D tool changer with Duet2+Duex -
