Corner LEDs not working
-
Look at the LEDs and their soldering first to see if you can spot a problem. If not, try measuring the voltage across each LED when they should be on. If you find one with 12V or 24V across it, that one is open circuit.
-
since I was taking things apart on another project I took the time to measure the voltage at the LEDs. I have them reading 0.6 1.1 and 1.5
-
I'm guessing that those readings are between the anode of each LED and the negative supply. Is that correct? What supply voltage are you using? The LEDs are designed for a 12V or 24V supply to the hot end fan, depending on the position of the jumper. 5V will not be enough to light them.
-
24v supply, I read to the left and right of each LED, I'll see if I can find my alligator clips and read between a fan negative and the LEDS, and update.
-
all are @ 1.5v or less
-
I suspect there is a fault in your effector. If you look at the schematic at https://github.com/T3P3/SmartEffector/blob/master/SmartEffector/SmartEffector_v1.3/SmartEffector_Schematic_v1.3.pdf you will see that the three LEDs and resistors R8 and R9 are all connected in series across the hot end fan input terminals. So if the anode of D1 is less than 1.5V relative to H_Fan_- then that suggests to me that R8 or R9 is open circuit, or not soldered properly.
-
okay, I will look after this print finishes
-
dc42
I have same problem. its my fault. can your give me specs on LED so I can order replacement. -
The part number for the white LEDs is CLM3C-WKW-CWBYA153.
-
and now this, can't get to printing temp even though it has been working fine other than the LEDs, could the hotend heating up soften the solder enough to do this?
-
The hot end, no. Bad connection, yes.
-
It looks to me that the green plastic housing has slid down, but the metal pins are still exactly where they should be. That should not be a problem, except that if you need to remove the heater wires you will probably find it easier if you push the green plastic part up so that it touches the PCB again.
-
I suspect there is a fault in your effector. If you look at the schematic at https://github.com/T3P3/SmartEffector/blob/master/SmartEffector/SmartEffector_v1.3/SmartEffector_Schematic_v1.3.pdf you will see that the three LEDs and resistors R8 and R9 are all connected in series across the hot end fan input terminals. So if the anode of D1 is less than 1.5V relative to H_Fan_- then that suggests to me that R8 or R9 is open circuit, or not soldered properly.
sry so late getting back, real life stuff keeps getting in the way of play time, and it comes first.
I have 2.1-2.8 from the fan+ when its running to each LED, but none are lighting up
also have voltage at D8 and D9
-
I'm having a similar problem. have traced it down to the r8 and r9 resistors what are the specs on those?
-
if I am reading the schematic right is R9 a 604 ohm .33 watt and R8 a 140 ohm .33 watt? And if so is there any leeway say using a 600 ohm 1/2 watt for R9?
-
The values of those resistors are not critical. But they are unlikely to have failed, unless you ran it with 24V power when you had the 12V jumper installed - in which case R8 would be charred.
Make sure that you have the + and - hot end fan wires from the Duet to the effector the right way round.
-
I know that it is the resistor R9 that is why I am asking. And no I did not connect to 24v I have a totally 12v system. I just need to know what resistor to use to replace R9.
-
R9 doesn't matter on a 12V system because it it bypassed by the 12V jumper. Have you fitted that jumper?
-
yes. They were working fine. It is to be honest my fault, instead of changing connectors on my fans every time i change them I decided to change the connectors on my effector and while soldering them on I think I overheated the resistors. And then while testing for voltage like you describe above (checking from hot end fan - to leds for voltage the leds would light up and I would read voltage.
-
by the way this incident also finally induced me to buy a rework station with temp control and retiring my old radio shack dual wattage soldering iron.