Scared to rewire endstops, help me pick new ones?
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@buurman theres only 3.3v on the endstop header, but theres nothing stopping you picking up 5v from elsewhere on the board and using that
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@jay_s_uk yeah, so i can also look online for 3.3v endstops? If im buying anyways why not go to something that i can just plug in.
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@buurman i believe most optical are 5v.
why not save yourself the hassle and go mechanical? no voltage required then -
@jay_s_uk I might just. But why then is the voltage 3.3v? Like what is the 'nominal' endstop for duet that uses 3.3v, hall effect sensors perhaps?
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@buurman not even hall effect. they're a pain.
most people use mechanical -
@jay_s_uk Okay, I will go and get some mechanical ones then. Any idea why they don't just put 5v on there, that would seem to save a lot of hassle?
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@buurman they have on the duet 3.
don't forget the duet 2 has been around quite a while now and is a little long in the tooth -
@jay_s_uk makes sense, thanks! One more thing, you said no voltage required for mechanical, i understand that's true to operate it, but ofc a circuit still needs to be made and broken, suppose this will also be 3.3v? I imagine it is, just safeguarding, because if it is i can safely use the wiring that already exists (part of a ribbon cable) for the y endstop.
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@buurman no, its wired between the signal pin and ground. 3.3v doesn't get used for mechanical
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@jay_s_uk why do mechanical endstops also have 3 leads then? and the signal pin has a voltage too, right?
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@buurman some of them designed for 3d printers do and thats purely to power an LED to show you when its been activated or not. Most of those though are Normally Open rather than Normally Closed.
Just buy some microswitches with a lever and print some mounts for them. Normally Closed is a much better setup all day long -
@jay_s_uk Why would normally closed be better? Fewer things that could unwantedly trip the sensor? Right now i just want to get the setup working, i can get a better setup later. It's been years since I played around with electronics so i am rusty, perhaps best for me to now focus on a minimum viable product, ie, getting the board and printer working, expand upon it later.
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@buurman yes, basically. although RRF only monitors endstops during a certain move type, theres still a change for EMC to cause false triggers of the endstops.
This is even more of an issue on the artillery printers that use ribbons. They are notorious for having false triggers etc especially when the wagster mod is used to add a bltouch -
@jay_s_uk yeah mine has the extra pins on the extruder board BLT so that should not be an issue. I could just run a cable up to the y endstop (thats the only one that goes through the ribbon).
Should be okay like that, right? Because i think i still have some new mech end switches laying around
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@buurman give it a go and see if you get any trouble
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There is a video out there showing that microswitches are actually very, very good when it comes to repeatability.
They are simple, safe and if you don't use the plain kind (not circuit board) they only need 2 wires. If you go the route be sure to the the COM and NC connections.
The kind with the circuit board have a couple of advantages (usually). They provide an LED to verify state. The signal is actively pulled-down or pulled-up so the signal wire to the Duet is never dealing with an open circuit which can act like an antenna pickup up noise.
There may be kinds a circuit board that don't behave that way but all the ones I have used do.
Frederick
