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    Much improved Bed Flatness

    Scheduled Pinned Locked Moved
    My Duet controlled machine
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    • CCS86undefined
      CCS86
      last edited by

      After swapping out my Ultimaker Original+ glass bed for a MIC6 aluminum plate + Fulaflex, replacing the perimeter shafts and overly stiff motor couplers, I was able to really get the print surface flattened out!

      3D-Printer-Bed.gif

      My back right corner is just a bit low. I might add a jack screw over there to coax it up.

      T3P3Tonyundefined 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 5
      • CCS86undefined
        CCS86
        last edited by

        https://photos.app.goo.gl/DLQRTbTzUCKFR4Bm6

        1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 1
        • CCS86undefined
          CCS86
          last edited by

          https://photos.app.goo.gl/Y12th7sbBm3fF78P6

          1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 1
          • T3P3Tonyundefined
            T3P3Tony administrators @CCS86
            last edited by

            @CCS86 really interesting improvement

            Looking at your before deviations though a lot of people would be happy enough with those, print the first layer at 0.3mm and use mesh bed levelling.

            Not criticism though, really shows how improving the hardware can make a difference.

            What was the approximate cost of the upgrade to the bed and Z motion?

            www.duet3d.com

            CCS86undefined 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
            • CCS86undefined
              CCS86 @T3P3Tony
              last edited by

              @T3P3Tony said in Much improved Bed Flatness:

              @CCS86 really interesting improvement

              Looking at your before deviations though a lot of people would be happy enough with those, print the first layer at 0.3mm and use mesh bed levelling.

              Not criticism though, really shows how improving the hardware can make a difference.

              What was the approximate cost of the upgrade to the bed and Z motion?

              I print a lot of functional parts, so independent of getting good first layers, I appreciate the bottoms of the prints being more flat. I print a lot of 0.15mm first layers and could easily go lower.

              Because of my Ultimaker based motion system it is possible that runout in the perimeter rods (especially if a pair of rods are running out, out-of-phase) can cause tilt of the print head, which botches the probe data, and your first layers.

              New 8mm rods were only like $30 from Amazon. You just order a bit extra, pick the straightest and return the rest. But I finally figured out that most of my in-assembly runout wasn't actually from the rods themselves, it was from the shaft couplers I had switched to at one point:

              b8ae607b-a1ac-4177-88c0-34b8e76bf2a0-image.png

              These plate style couplers are far to stiff and induce a significant amount of runout. Switching back to these aluminum, helical cut type was a big improvement:

              98f0d7fb-e1a8-43ed-9e4a-4b5b0470b682-image.png

              Besides that, I picked up a MIC6 aluminum plate from McMaster for around $60 and cut it to fit, made provisions to mount, etc.

              T3P3Tonyundefined 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 1
              • T3P3Tonyundefined
                T3P3Tony administrators @CCS86
                last edited by

                @CCS86 said in Much improved Bed Flatness:

                New 8mm rods were only like $30 from Amazon. You just order a bit extra, pick the straightest and return the rest.

                I am now never going to be tempted to buy rods from amazon warehouse returns!

                www.duet3d.com

                CCS86undefined 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                • CCS86undefined
                  CCS86 @T3P3Tony
                  last edited by

                  @T3P3Tony 🤣

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