High Temperature Extruder w/o water-cooling
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Wondering if anyone knows of any direct drive extruders that can be used in a print chamber that will go up to 100C for printing PEEK and other high-temp thermoplastics? Other than the very pricey BMG-HT for Funmat, all the ones I've come across seem to require water cooling which I was hoping to avoid. Just wanted to make sure I wasn't missing anything.
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@JRCL I've printed an "sherpa mini" extruder from ABS-like resin. It can stand temps above 200°C. (untested, but seen on YT)
The hardware kit is from BMG and their big gear is nylon ( I guess)
That leaves the motor, but the LDO HT motor from the orbiter fits here too.
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@JRCL Just my two cents but for PEEK you should aim between 150°C to 200°C in the chamber.
If you don't want to go watercooling maybe compressed air should do the job? -
@o_lampe Solid idea. I also managed to come across this Biqu extruder that seems to fit my requirements. Albeit way clunkier but OTS and affordable: https://bit.ly/3BGVpee
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@Hugsy I'd like to go hotter but I'm going to have to settle with 100C for now, maybe an upgrade after. I see Intamsys Funmat and Creatbot f160 are able to make some decent prints at those temperatures so sort of modeling things after them
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@JRCL CPAP blower with tube running from outside? I have an 70c printer that uses a berd air to cool a regular hotend. Seems to work ok.
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@JRCL Funmat and Creatbot probably use a modified PEEK that needs annealing. In any case, the best practice is to focus on chamber temperature uniformity before going after high temps.
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@Hugsy Ahhh that probably is the difference. Do the higher temperature machines anneal inside the chamber or use a different type of PEEK filament that doesn't require annealing after due to the higher chamber temps?
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@JRCL I don't think it would be a great idea to anneal inside the machine itself since that would mean temperatures beyond 150°C, I'm not familiar with these materials though. If you have a chamber that can go high enough with a good temperature uniformity, printing a non-modified PEEK can be an idea but it is a nightmare to print anyways. For high temperature applications with FDM I tend to recommend Ultem 1010 or 9085. PEEK is better but it's more aimed towards high chemical resistance, mechanically it won't be better if it's not printed correctly.
