@dc42 I vote get rid of them. Would much rather have more modern features on my production printers than a shorter path to an odd kinematic play toy printer.

@itslikeboo I love this project. Hope to do something similar on one of my anycubic predators except with two smart effectors. Keep up the good work.

@cncmodeller most resin printers are the same. Almost all use chitu brand controls. Def get a mono screen or one of the newer dlp printers, mono prints much much faster. Suggest getting two tanks for which ever wash station you decide. Dirty tank and a cleanish tank. Remember once the ipa gets cloudy you can pour it into a glass jar and set it out in the sun. The resin will coagulate and can be filtered out through a coffee filter to be reused. I usually add some fresh in also. Cheers.

I'll try and connect it this week and see how many watts it pulls.

@mrehorstdmd I think they are just saying the coated copper block can handle high temp. Prob just because they seen other companies saying coated copper blocks for high temp. It would be nice if they would at least mention what kind it is.

https://a.aliexpress.com/_mrfF0v8

@mrehorstdmd they have .4 .6 .8mm nozzles, the metal block, heater, and temp sensor in the haldis store on AliExpress. Their documentation is a little lacking but the thing seems to be a unit. I have one in hand now and was comparing it to a Pheatus Rapido, it seems to be just as well made. If the nozzle/break/sink gets made in a hardened version at some point, I think it will be a winner. I'm not sure what kind of sensor it is, assuming it's just a thermistor. Haven't had time to test it yet. Printed an adapter to mount it on a smart effector on one of my predators, but it's spring now, not much time to tinker.

That's what the documentation says I haven't checked the amperage.

recieved one from china today. its pretty impressive. Definitly nicer than a rapido. 115w heater. i like how the Nozzle/break/heatsink threads at the bottom of the heater.

@fma could also drive you z belt with a worm gearbox. Worm gears can't be back driven.

@itslikeboo I figured that's why you were rotating the magnets. Also why I was planning on igus rod ends in case magball ends came loose instead.

relay contacts, NO connecting to board. NC shorting coils a+ to a-, b+ to b-. Power relay directly from power switch. Can be done on a delta also to keep nozzle from crashing had into a glass bed.
I did a project in college where I used a high pole count stepper as a steering tiller. Was able to read off one set of coils amplified and clipped into a psuedo square wave for quadrature. And power/short the other set of coils for feedback and resistance. Was able to tweak the resistance with a resister network.