@jbergene

According to this picture

• positive X goes to the right
• positive Y goes to the back
• positive Z goes up

@philn
We had this discussion a short while ago and the answers are probably the same.
If you have several printers at hand, why not build the next one with features the others don't have? (toolchanger, heated chamber, special extruder for high temp filament a.s.o.)
Setting the goals to achieve makes it easier to pick the right kinematics.
Eg. Bed slinger = big footprint => not the best choice for heated chamber
Delta printer => not easy to aim for tool changing

To celebrate the new level of 3D printing named conditionals and variables I thought it would be funny to rebuild my old Prusa i3 to an IDEX with infinite Y-axis.
A macro would then apply Tic Tac Toe rules to the two feltpen-tools which actually write X and O to a foil on the bed.
The infinite Y-axis would then scroll the foil around and thereby wipe off the nonpermanent ink.

With this thread I want to encourage other users to think out off the box and come up with their crazy ideas to celebrate the amazing Duet team and their breakthrough Firmware.

One thing not mentioned by anyone is the G31 probe offset. Are you sure it's OK?

@jay_s_uk
It's Q1 that fell off, but C1 is also written close to the pads and can easily lead to confusion.

@cr3d
...what cosmowave said.
You can trigger your own filament-out macro with the filament sensor, which in the end toggles a different I/O pin. This pin is the 'official' filament-out pin defined in config.g

@alankilian said in Don't mount F407 vertically...:

At 24 Volts, 300 Watts is 12 Amps which is on the edge according to @jay_s_uk

My cheap multimeter read 2.6Ohm, which would lead to less than 10Amps @220W. (probably not very accurate reading)

@jay_s_uk
IMHO a bed-Mosfet should be oversized to run 24/7 reliably.
The replacement you kindly offered will have the same problem, unless I can upgrade the FET. (will try it on my board first, you don't have to send anything yet).
If it fails, an external MOSFet would work from an extruder heater, too.

@erfreuterstudent

If I get you right, you want to update the momentary diameter while printing?
That's not just a serial-connection problem, but also needs to be synchronized with the print speed. You'd also need a filament-movement sensor. Also the controller would have to know the distance from your filament sensor and the nozzle to time the extrusionrate based on the diameter you've measured nn.nn millimeters before.
Your current data stream only sends data every nn.nn seconds which is much harder to synchronize. (varying print speed, retractions a.s.o.)

[code]

// select the input pin for the potentiometer
int sensorPin0 = A0;
// select the input pin for the potentiometer
int sensorPin1 = A1;
// select the input pin for the potentiometer
int sensorPin2 = A2;
// select the input pin for the potentiometer
int sensorPin3 = A3;

// select the pin for the LED
int ledPin = 13;

// variable to store the value coming from the sensor
int sensorValue0 = 0;
// variable to store the value coming from the sensor
int sensorValue1 = 0;
// variable to store the value coming from the sensor
int sensorValue2 = 0;
// variable to store the value coming from the sensor
int sensorValue3 = 0;

int gcode0 = 0;
int gcode1 = 0;
int gcode2 = 0;
int gcode3 = 0;

#include "GCodeSerial.h"

GCodeSerial output(Serial.ATmega328P);

void setup()
{
pinMode(ledPin,OUTPUT); Serial.begin(57600);
}
void loop(){

sensorValue0 =
analogRead(sensorPin0);
gcode0 = ((sensorValue0-516)*0.73913043478)+62;

sensorValue1 =
analogRead(sensorPin1);
gcode1 = ((sensorValue1-516)*0.73913043478)+62;

sensorValue2 =
analogRead(sensorPin2);
gcode2 = ((sensorValue2-516)*0.73913043478)+62;

sensorValue3 =
analogRead(sensorPin3);
gcode3 = ((sensorValue3-516)*0.73913043478)+62;

//T0
if (gcode0 < 95) {delay(1000);Serial.println("");}
else{
if (gcode0 > 120) {delay(1000);Serial.println("NO FILAMENT");}
else{
digitalWrite(ledPin, HIGH);
delay(1000); digitalWrite(ledPin, LOW); delay(1000);
output.write("M221 S");output.write(gcode0);output.write(" D");output.write(A0-14);
}}
//T1
if (gcode1 < 95) {delay(1000);Serial.println("");}
else{
if (gcode1 > 120) {delay(1000);Serial.println("NO FILAMENT");}
else{
digitalWrite(ledPin, HIGH);
delay(1000); digitalWrite(ledPin, LOW); delay(1000);
Serial.write("M221 S");Serial.write(gcode1);Serial.write(" D");Serial.write(A1-14);
}}
//T2
if (gcode2 < 95) {delay(1000);Serial.println("");}
else{
if (gcode2 > 120) {delay(1000);Serial.println("NO FILAMENT");}
else{
digitalWrite(ledPin, HIGH);
delay(1000); digitalWrite(ledPin, LOW); delay(1000);
Serial.print("M221 S");Serial.print(gcode2, DEC);Serial.print(" D");Serial.println(A2-14);
}}
//T3
if (gcode3 < 95) {delay(1000);Serial.println("");}
else{
if (gcode3 > 120) {delay(1000);Serial.println("NO FILAMENT");}
else{
digitalWrite(ledPin, HIGH);
delay(1000); digitalWrite(ledPin, LOW); delay(1000);
Serial.print("M221 S");Serial.print(gcode3, DEC);Serial.print(" D");Serial.println(A3-14);
}}
}
[/code]

@Phaedrux
Now that I have a working homeAll procedure, I've edited the existing gcode-files and the slicer start/end procedures. The wrong layercount is history now.

@Tpmoses
I can't comment on the BLtouch, but talking about losses Add a USV to your printer or a big battery to avoid power-issues.

@jerolee Opposite to the Duet3 series, the Duet2 (with Duex5) are maintained by only one processor. (No CAN bus latency)
That's why I assumed it would be less of a problem, when motors/endstops of the same axis are on different boards.
Surprisingly, there seems to be an issue? Will watch this thread with great interest if you keep us informed.

I read a bit about the one-time-programming OTP of the 2209.
Will it be possible to use them in standalone mode, once they were configured through UART?

@joergs5
Kelvin for a toolchanger makes sense. OTOH, a XY-gantry usually refers to endstops, not the bed edges.

Hi Duet-team,
is there a chance to control external TMC2209 drivers throught the expansion port.?
Including UART configuration? (PanelDue-port?)
I'd accept writing a macro as a workaround for the usual M-codes.

THX for reading
Olaf

@mikeabuilder @fcwilt
you both describe a Kelvin mount. I opted against it, because I wanted to have three identical ball-guides.

A filed 45° corner would have to be perfectly machined. The Acorn nuts will drive you crazy, because they are only casted with high tolerances. (They are produced for the looks, not for accuracy)
The 120° approach would be easy to implement on a circular bed on a Delta frame, but a square bed frame ends in 90+2x150° angles. Not too bad, 'cause we don't need equal expansion.

The whole build is experimental, I expect more trouble with the XY gantry. (and slicer/firmware issues)

@alankilian said in Don't mount F407 vertically...:

At 24 Volts, 300 Watts is 12 Amps which is on the edge according to @jay_s_uk

My cheap multimeter read 2.6Ohm, which would lead to less than 10Amps @220W. (probably not very accurate reading)

@jay_s_uk
IMHO a bed-Mosfet should be oversized to run 24/7 reliably.
The replacement you kindly offered will have the same problem, unless I can upgrade the FET. (will try it on my board first, you don't have to send anything yet).
If it fails, an external MOSFet would work from an extruder heater, too.

I've installed a ~300W bed heater to the F407 and started PID tuning. I watched the voltage on the DWC screen and was surprised it didn't drop (at all)
At around 55°C a bad smell arose and I killed the PSU immediately.
Although the bed has 2.6(ish) Ohm resistance, which equates to 222W only, the bed heater got too hot and the weight of the heatsink pulled it off the PCB

Before, I've tested the bed heater on a Duet2WiFi and it didn't show any signs of stress.
I'm not impressed...

I went for Maxwell temp-expansion layout, simply because I couldn't make up a way to fix one side without melting the bracket.
Now I've used Haydn's ballstuds and 4mm PTFE tube as dowel pins. I guess that PTFE keeps the heat away from the brackets, better than (stainless) steel dowel pins.

I also filled the PTFE tube with pieces of wooden toothpicks to avoid sinking balls (pun intended)

PS: magnets will arrive monday, I hope they fit in their pocket.

@T3P3Tony et al.
The new Wiki layout is a great step forward in readability!
I've linked to specific sections of the old Wiki pretty often, will these links still work? ( for future readers, who might use the search function)

@shauncro said in Duet Mini 5+ and Co2 50W laser Guidance:

I'm still trying to figure out how to remove the Z axis,

You can try the P-parameter in M584 to make Z axis invisible, but I haven't tested whether DWC allows you to hide the most important axis? (important in 3D printing and CNC)

Q: is the three way switch a double pole/double throw type? It would activate the potmeter and the test-pin at the same time.
But if you have two separate switches, you might loose PWM control by Duet, if the GND switch is set wrong.

BTW: I'm still missing emergency-switch and keylock....