Tractus 3D 1250 - Y-Axis Stopping & Cooling Fan Issue
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@JJJJ I have got the fuse out, but i have not got a one amp to test yet.
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@JJJJ said in Tractus 3D 1250 - Y-Axis Stopping & Cooling Fan Issue:
Could the stepper motor driver overheating be the cause of my Y motor randomly stopping?
Yes. Particularly if you have the current turned up, the motor drivers can overheat. Depending on what version of RRF you are running, you may be able to detect a driver error event and pause, see https://docs.duet3d.com/en/User_manual/RepRapFirmware/Events
What else could cause the Y motor to stop mid-print but work fine before the print when homing and after turning off and on the machine?
Not much, unless there's a wiring issue. It may take a while for the driver/board to heat up.
How do I safely remove the 1a fan fuse?
You just have to pull it out straight, they can be in quite stuck in! Use some pliers for a better grip.
I have got the fuse out, but i have not got a one amp to test yet.
The 1A fuses aren't common. You can use a 2A (which are generally more available), but I wouldn't use much more. See https://docs.duet3d.com/en/User_manual/Troubleshooting/Parts#blade-fuses
PS I've upvoted your posts, so you should be able to post links. Part of our anti-spam measures, unfortunately.
Ian
TronXY X5S with Duet 3 MB6HC and Roto toolboard : Cartesian bed-slinger with Duet 3 Mini 5+ WiFi and 1LC : RRP Fisher Delta v1 with Duet 2 Maestro : Polargraph with Duet 2 WiFi
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@droftarts Thanks for your reply. That makes sense about the spam, here is the link to the video: https://youtube.com/shorts/F0TtCY8WHq0?feature=share
Yes. Particularly if you have the current turned up, the motor drivers can overheat. Depending on what version of RRF you are running, you may be able to detect a driver error event and pause, see https://docs.duet3d.com/en/User_manual/RepRapFirmware/Events
The stepper motors are at 1.8 amps, I naively thought to set the current to 90% of what the motors can handle. their max current is 2 amps. But I imagine this is too high for the drivers then. I am going to order some heatsinks for the motors as well.
The motors: https://ooznest.co.uk/product/nema17-stepper-motors/
I am currently using version 3.5.1. I was going to ask how to set up a failsafe to prevent more failures like this before they get to a dangerous position and wasted filament.
Not much, unless there's a wiring issue. It may take a while for the driver/board to heat up.
Both failures happened a good few hours into the print so that makes sense.
The 1A fuses aren't common. You can use a 2A (which are generally more available), but I wouldn't use much more. See https://docs.duet3d.com/en/User_manual/Troubleshooting/Parts#blade-fuses
I have ordered some 1 amp fuses online as the lowest we have is 5 amps, but I put the fuse in and now I am getting continuity between the VIN and the v fan junction pins.
Would the fans I used cause the fuse to blow? the polarity was correct.
Thanks again for your reply.
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@JJJJ said in Tractus 3D 1250 - Y-Axis Stopping & Cooling Fan Issue:
The stepper motors are at 1.8 amps, I naively thought to set the current to 90% of what the motors can handle. their max current is 2 amps. But I imagine this is too high for the drivers then. I am going to order some heatsinks for the motors as well.
So the drivers were set at around 1.6A? I would have thought they would be okay, but it would also depend on air flow, ambient temperature etc. Our general advice is here https://docs.duet3d.com/Duet3D_hardware/Duet_2_family/Duet_2_WiFi_Ethernet_Hardware_Overview#cooling
Would the fans I used cause the fuse to blow? the polarity was correct.
The fans are 12V/4.2W/0.35A, so two of them would be 0.7A, plus any other fans you have connected, may be quite close to 1A. I think fans also pull a bit more current at startup.
Could you post your config.g and config-override.g? Or even better a zip with all your config files? It might help out the Tractus3D T650P owner in this loooong thread: https://forum.duet3d.com/topic/37440/
Now Tractus has disappeared, it would be good to archive working configurations.Ian
TronXY X5S with Duet 3 MB6HC and Roto toolboard : Cartesian bed-slinger with Duet 3 Mini 5+ WiFi and 1LC : RRP Fisher Delta v1 with Duet 2 Maestro : Polargraph with Duet 2 WiFi
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@droftarts Okay, I imagine it is cooling that is causing the issue as that driver chip is furthest from the fan which is definitely inadequate. Also after reading that post, the board has no airflow to the bottom, so that makes more sense. I will put it on some taller stand-offs tomorrow.
The fans are 12V/4.2W/0.35A, so two of them would be 0.7A, plus any other fans you have connected, may be quite close to 1A. I think fans also pull a bit more current at startup.
And I thought it was under 1 amp but I didn't think about the other fans, when the printer turns on the hot-end cooling fan kicks on for a second so the fans must draw more when the printer powers on like you said.
Are there any other pins where I can connect the fans to and not risk damaging the board? could I just connect the fans to the 24v VIN input into the board, I can't imagine this is the best way.
Here is a zip of my config. The board was running on software from 2017 when I started working on it last year. I had to start from scratch. I have not set up any macros yet as I never really use them so they are all default from the config generator.
bed.g
config-override.g
config.g
homedelta.g
pause.g
resume.g -
@JJJJ said in Tractus 3D 1250 - Y-Axis Stopping & Cooling Fan Issue:
And I thought it was under 1 amp but I didn't think about the other fans, when the printer turns on the hot-end cooling fan kicks on for a second so the fans must draw more when the printer powers on like you said.
Only one fan is on at printer startup, briefly, I think FAN 0. I think it was originally designed to be the hot end fan, and so if there was a firmware failure, it would be on. I was meaning more when the fans start, they draw more power.
To improve cooling, I installed bigger fans, wiring them in parallel to a buck converter outputting 12V.
Sorry, I missed this earlier on. What did you wire the 12V buck converter to to get power? The fan header? You can get power for it directly from the 24V PSU, wired to VIN+ and GND for always on. You could wire the negative to one of the FAN#- pins to make it controllable. Heaters and fans switch on the negative side (it's how MOSFETs work), so the positive side is 'on' all the time.
Are there any other pins where I can connect the fans to and not risk damaging the board? could I just connect the fans to the 24v VIN input into the board, I can't imagine this is the best way.
As above, you could wire the 12V buck converter to 24V VIN input and GND, for always on fans. You could add an inline fuse if you want.
Here is a zip of my config. The board was running on software from 2017 when I started working on it last year. I had to start from scratch. I have not set up any macros yet as I never really use them so they are all default from the config generator.
Great, thanks! Would you happen to have the original Tractus3D configs around, even if they are for older RRF versions? Otherwise they now appear to be lost to the mists of time.
Ian
TronXY X5S with Duet 3 MB6HC and Roto toolboard : Cartesian bed-slinger with Duet 3 Mini 5+ WiFi and 1LC : RRP Fisher Delta v1 with Duet 2 Maestro : Polargraph with Duet 2 WiFi
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Sorry, I missed this earlier on. What did you wire the 12V buck converter to to get power? The fan header? You can get power for it directly from the 24V PSU, wired to VIN+ and GND for always on. You could wire the negative to one of the FAN#- pins to make it controllable. Heaters and fans switch on the negative side (it's how MOSFETs work), so the positive side is 'on' all the time.
yes, I did, I will just wire straight into this then as I need these fans on all the time, thanks.
Great, thanks! Would you happen to have the original Tractus3D configs around, even if they are for older RRF versions? Otherwise, they now appear to be lost to the mists of time.
Unfortunately not, I forgot to save before I updated and I corrupted the original config, hence why I had to start from scratch.
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@droftarts Today i changed the fuse and the fans are working again, but I keep getting shocked everytime I touch the red frame of the printer.
I unplugged it just now and went to touch it to change the wiring to add the fans and got the worst shock so far.
Would you know what is causing this/how I stop it and should I be concerned.
Thanks
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@JJJJ That's worrying. Does it seem like a static shock, or an actual electrical shock? If the machine was disconnected I'd guess it was a static shock, which might build up in the moving parts (filament moving, belt and carriage friction etc), but can be grounded. Usually grounding the motor casings is the best option, if they are not already mounted directly to the metal frame, and grounding the frame to earth (see https://docs.duet3d.com/en/User_manual/Connecting_hardware/Power_wiring#grounding).
If it's running on 24V, a short on VIN would not be noticable; skin isn't conductive until around 50V. An electrical short from mains might be related to the PSU, or wiring from the PSU; check it all carefully.
PS I might be becoming a Tractus3D T1250 owner myself, next week!
Ian
TronXY X5S with Duet 3 MB6HC and Roto toolboard : Cartesian bed-slinger with Duet 3 Mini 5+ WiFi and 1LC : RRP Fisher Delta v1 with Duet 2 Maestro : Polargraph with Duet 2 WiFi
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@droftarts Okay, the first couple were probably static, I have been wearing a fleecy jumper, and every time is an exaggeration it was like three times throughout the day.
checked the power supply input cable and nothing looks like it's loose or touching anything it shouldn't.
The motors are mounted directly to the frame.
And that's very exciting, I hope yours is less of a headache aha!
My other question was about remote monitoring. is there an easy way to do this? I saw an article on the duet website but wanted your opinion.
Thanks again
Jake
