Creality CR-10 upgrade
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Changed my bed for precision plate now battling IR probe as endstop. I cant seem to grasp the concept here. I lover the nozzle to where it touches the piece of paper then G92 Z0 and when i home it does not go back to that height. Tried G31 P500 X5 Y14.5 Z-5.5 ; with no success.
Whats the proper procedure setting Z probe height?
I am looking at these :
https://duet3d.com/wiki/Setting_up_automatic_probing_of_the_print_bed
https://duet3d.com/wiki/Using_mesh_bed_compensation -
The G31 Z parameter should be positive for sensors that trigger before the nozzle touches the bed. For the IR sensor is should be no higher than about 3mm.
If you are restarting the Duet between attempts, also check that you don't also have a G31 command in config-override.g.
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I dont have that file. So G31 is the offset of the Z probe depending how its mounted?
So then i would go:
M208 S1 Z-3
Lower the nozzle to where it touches say piece of paper.
G92 Z0 to store that
But where is that offset, do i need to read it from web interface and then enter it to config.g's G31? Is there a step by step somewhere? -
I suggest you read the commissioning instructions in the fitting instructions page, at https://miscsolutions.wordpress.com/mini-height-sensor-board/.
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Thank you. I think i have the idea now. Here is the map:
Is this any good or my bed is bad?
I have bought new 8mm precision plate but it does not look that precise.
Before i had Chaina heatbed out of 3mm aluminium and got this:
Can you help interpret the results?
P.S. I have 5V LED bar. Draws little over 1 A
Can i connect it to unused expansion header pins and control it with a macro? Cant seem to find header ratings -
Your first height map looks OK, but the second (mostly red one) looks poor.
If you have a spare controlled fan output on the Duet, you can connect your lighting between +5V on the expansion header and FAN- on your chosen controlled fan output. The control it using M106. Or, if uou are not using the E1 heater output, you can connect the lighting between +5V on the expansion header and E1- on the E1 heater terminal block. Caution! Some versions of the Duet PCB have the E1- and VIN legends for the terminal block the wrong way round. E1- is the end farthest from the corner of the board.
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Great. Thanks.
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Agniusm,
I'm about to start my adventure to replace the cr-10 board with the DuetWiFi..
The steppermotor connectors are slightly different, but it's possible to plug it in…Question:
Are the steppermotor connectors of the CR-10 pin-compatible with the connectors of the Duet board?
Can I plug them in the Duet board or do I have to rewire ??
If so, which way should the connector be orientated? -
I think you will need to rewire. I swapped my cables and built them from scratch so i don't really know.
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I think you will need to rewire. I swapped my cables and built them from scratch so i don't really know.
Not wat I was hoping for, but thanks for letting me know..
I'll go and hunt down the wiring of the cr-10 connectors. -
You can test whether the connectors need to be rewired in either of two ways:
1. Use a multimeter to measure the resistance between pins. If the wiring is correct for the Duet, you should get a few ohms resistance between pins 1 and 2, and a few ohms between pins 3 and 4. There should be no continuity between 1 or 2 and 3 or 4.
2. If you don't have a multimeter, then you can try shorting pins together to see if it makes the motor harder to turn. If it is wired correctly, then if you short pins 1 and 2 together, or pins 3 and 4 together, it will be harder to spin the spindle with your fingers.
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I think you will need to rewire. I swapped my cables and built them from scratch so i don't really know.
Not wat I was hoping for, but thanks for letting me know..
I'll go and hunt down the wiring of the cr-10 connectors.Rewiring is basically swapping pins. There is not much to it. Like DC42 said or you can simply plug generic LED and spin the motor by hand. If it lights up, you got a pair.
On cr10 i think pairs are layed out as follows on motor connector: 1 and 4 one pair, 3 and 6 the other one. On duet you have 1b1a and 2a2b.
Now just connect you wires so 1 goes to 1a 4 to 1b 3 to 2a 6 to 2b and if its reversed, reverse it back in firmware. It is different for y axis only. -
The AJAX error still does my head in. I pulled out old router to test, where all AP's are stored so i could edit the list? I have ordered new AP so i can dedicate it to the printer
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The latest (1.20) version of DWC gives a more precise error message instead of "AJAX error".
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Is there a way to set baby stepping on LCD to be something else than 0.05 or is it precompiled in LCD firmware?
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I do not think that these AJAX errors are caused by your wifi connection but by the firmware (Firmware 1.9 and up)
I had them all the time after upgrading, im back to the old firmware and dont have them anymore
see also my tread :
https://www.duet3d.com/forum/thread.php?id=3831i hope this will be fixed
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Is there somewhere i could find how long last print took?
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Different users find different firmware versions work best for them, so I caution against generalising. The main changes to DuetWiFiServer.bin were:
- Firmware 1.19 moved the web server form the WiFi module to the main processor
- Firmware 1.19.1 tries harder to restore the wifi connection if it is lost than all earlier versions did
- Firmware 1.20 uses the latest SDK from Expressiv to fix the KRACK vulnerability that is present in all earlier versions
- Firmware 1.20+1 uses version 2 of the LWIP TCP/IP stack instead of version 1, and a still-later SDK version
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Dc42 what do you mean worked best for them? I liked the new version, i hope my problem wil be fixed.
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I'll get new AP, place it in the same room and then we will see. I have IP wifi camera further away and it works fine. I don't know why this is problematic. Is it poor hardware (wifi module) or something else causing so many people problems?
