Duet WiFi not responding over USB
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After discovering that the WiFi server was down and the controller was no longer connected to WiFi by checking my router, I plugged the board into a computer and the board never came up in device manager.
the 3.3V, 5V, diag, and the led between the reset button and the USB plug are all on, as well as V in when connected to the PSU. The end-stops and IR probe still function. and no components (the processor, the 3.3V regulator U2, the small 14-pin ICs or the WiFi module) get hot after prolonged power on through USB or 12V.
I have been through the steps listed here: https://duet3d.dozuki.com/Wiki/What_to_do_if_your_Duet_won't_respond#Section_Connect_to_a_PC_via_USB_and_look_for_the_port and the erase and reset buttons have no affect.
At this point, I have no idea what happened or how to prevent it -
@wiseguy56 have you tested the board with nothing plugged in other than USB power? It may be that and endstop etc has malfunctioned and is shorting 3.3V to ground (although I would expect the regulator to get hot then).
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If your PC is running Windows then it may have disabled that USB port. Try another port or reboot Windows.
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I've tried ripping everything out and plugging in just USB, and 3 different computers with a known good data enabled cord.
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Check to see if the USB connector is tight on the DuetWifi board.
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It is definitely pushed in all the way, and I can drag the board across the table with the cord. Cable is snug.
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@wiseguy56 it sounds like the board is fried. What would be good to work out is how that happened. it would be good if you could check your wiring to see if you have a short between VIN and 3.3V, 5V or ground.
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What are the usual suspects? I would expect the PSU? I took some images
https://imgur.com/a/CJiLIpA -
The prime suspects are anything that takes 3.3V or 5V power and also has a heater or fan powered from 12V or 24V. So the usual culprit is the hot end assembly, which typically takes 3.3V or 5V power for the Z probe and has 12V or 24V heaters and fans.
Heater cartridges sometimes get a short between the element and the casing.
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@wiseguy56 as David says hotend is normally a prime suspect. As are hotend wiring looms (if you run VIN next to a thermistor/endstop wire and they short together). I nore you have an IR probe next to the hotend (correctly insulated with Kapton). its worth checking to see if that insulation has not broken and the IR probe is touching the hotend.