Duet Wifi and CR-10

opentoideas

@insertnamehere thank you so much, that sounds like a much better plan (even if DC42 was a bit quicker on the draw)

deckingman

@opentoideas said in Duet Wifi and CR-10:

I know the E drive as its not standard and is the Titan aero pancake 17HS08-1004S so again 1.0A 1.8deg

I could be wrong but I thought E3D's Titan pancake motors were 0.9 degree, not 1.8 - might be worth checking. It won't affect what current you set them to but it will affect the steps per mm (roughly 400 for a Titan with1.8 degree motors, but roughly 800 for the 0.9 degree motors).

opentoideas

@deckingman thats what I thought too but this may have been an oddball as it came from DjDemon and when I looked it up it came back with 1.8deg - https://www.oyostepper.com/images/upload/File/17HS08-1004S.pdf

that confused me when I first fitted it as I went with 0.9 rather than checking lol 837 steps vs 418 made a lot of mess!

dc42

@insertnamehere said in Duet Wifi and CR-10:

One of the problems I had with the CR-10 was that the X axis rail was difficult to keep level with the bed. If one side of the x axis was slightly higher or lower than the other it would affect the quality of the first layer. The level of the X axis would be different every time the printer was powered up and difficult to manually level.
I solved this problem by independently driving the Z axis steppers and I added some g-code to the slicer that would, at the start of each print, move the carriage left and right on the x axis, and using the z-probe, adjust each side of the x axis to be level with the bed.

Are you using M671 and G32, or something different?

opentoideas

so does this look correct in my config.h to set up the dual Z motors?

; Drives
M569 P0 S1 ; Drive 0 goes forwards
M569 P1 S1 ; Drive 1 goes forwards
M569 P2 S1 ; Drive 2 goes forwards
M569 P3 S1 ; Drive 3 goes forwards
M569 P4 S1 ; Drive 4 goes forwards
M584 X0 Y1 Z2:4 E3 ; Driver 0 controls the X motor, 1 controls Y, 2 and 4 control Z motors, 3 control E motor
M350 X16 Y16 Z16 E16 I1 ; Configure microstepping with interpolation
M92 X80 Y80 Z400 E420 ; Set steps per mm
M566 X900 Y900 Z12 E120 ; Set maximum instantaneous speed changes (mm/min)
M203 X30000 Y30000 Z900 E1500 ; Set maximum speeds (mm/min)
M201 X500 Y500 Z100 E5000 ; Set accelerations (mm/s^2)
M906 X800 Y800 Z500 E800 I30 ; Set motor currents (mA) and motor idle factor in per cent
M84 S30 ; Set idle timeout

I have wired in and tested the heaters, thermistors, end stops and fans and am about to start on the motors. I am sure I will have to correct direction on some but I plan to do that in the testing phase.

I am really glad there are plenty of crimp terminals as I had a few losses until I got things dialed in but I have to say the setup and testing so far has been a dream

dc42

Yes that looks good to me (I don't know whether the steps/mm are correct for the CR10). Eventually you will want to add a M671 command as well, but that can wait. The M203 values may be too high, again I don't know the CR10.

opentoideas

@dc42 thank you. thats me all wired up so time to start the commissioning and see what needs changed.

so if i understand correctly then the M584 instructs both drives 2 and 4 to move when a Z instruction is given and both drives will be working on the same parameters defined in the script.

leveling can come later for the moment I just want movement in the correct drive and in the correct direction

baby steps for me as its all new so I just want to do one thing at a time.

plan is direction first
then rough steps/mm check
then worry about leveling........

then throw a file at it and see how far out I am lol

opentoideas

OMG I an in love!!!

just threw a bunch of best guess settings at it when it looked OK I manually leveled the bed and started a print to see how bad it would be.....

erm..... even throwing 200% speed at it, its silent and the best print yet LOL

and I am sure there is a lot of tweaking to do but DAMN! I like!!

OK the bad... sliced in Cura and I am getting repeated M205 not recognised warnings - like hundreds of them - OK my stupidity need to change G code flavor in Cura from Marlin to Reprap O presume lol

hopefully something simple but thats the only problem lol

Big thanks to DC42 and the team I have no regrets at all!

insertnamehere

@dc42 In the start g-code of the slicer I have:

G30 P0 X20 Y150 Z-99999 ; probe near left leadscrew
G30 P1 X280 Y150 Z-99999 S2 ; probe near a right and calibrate 2 motors
G30 P0 X20 Y150 Z-99999 ; probe near left leadscrew
G30 P1 X280 Y150 Z-99999 S2 ; probe near right leadscrew and calibrate 2 motors
G30 P0 X20 Y150 Z-99999 ; probe near left leadscrew
G30 P1 X280 Y150 Z-99999 S2 ; probe near right leadscrew and calibrate 2 motors
G30 P0 X20 Y150 Z-99999 ; probe near left leadscrew
G30 P1 X280 Y150 Z-99999 S2 ; probe near right leadscrew and calibrate 2 motors
G30 P0 X20 Y150 Z-99999 ; probe near left leadscrew
G30 P1 X280 Y150 Z-99999 S2 ; probe near right leadscrew and calibrate 2 motors
G28 Z ; home Z axis

(Would look so much nicer if G-Code supported conditional loops)
In most cases I find 5 repeats of the leveling works well.

dc42

5 repetitions is rather high. Do you find that the early ones consistently under-correct, and the following one makes smaller corrections in the same direction? If so then you can use the F parameter on the M671 command to speed up convergence.

opentoideas

well I have my first issue. trying to configure the extruder and its a mess.

so without the hotend fitted 460 steps/mm is the number

with the hotend clean and free of blockages and a 0.6mm nozzle I have to up that to 545 at 1mm/s feedrate

wile I didn't expect 5mm/s feedrate to work it only moved 1/2 the fillament

I have swapped the 20mm stepper for the great big lump that was on the CR-10 extruder but this has not made any difference.

it has to be either missing steps or slipping on the filament but how do I check?

0_1535705491199_config.g
config file as its equally likely I have done something daft

dc42

If the extrusion rate is reducing by half then either the motor is skipping steps or the hobbed shaft is losing its grip on the filament. If the motor is skipping steps (which you can usually hear, or see the gear wheel flicking backwards), then you need to increase the extruder motor current if it will take more. If the hobbed shaft is losing its grip, try increasing the filament clamping force in the extruder drive - most extruder designs have a screw for adjusting this.

It's normal to get a slight increase in required steps/mm at high extrusion rates due to increase in the back pressure, but not as much as 100%, more like 5 to 8%. RepRapFirmware has a nonlinear extrusion facility to allow you to compensate for this effect.

deckingman

@opentoideas Do you have any details on the hot end and extruder? It ought to be possible to extrude at 5mm/sec without having to up the steps per mm - I do it all the time when I'm loading filament. OK, I use a 0.5mm nozzle and yours is 0.6 but you are struggling with 1mm/sec feed rate so something is amiss. Have you tuned the heater and got the correct setting for thermistor? Just wondering if the actual temperature is lower than that being reported. I guess a quick and dirty test would be just to up the temperature by say 20 or 30 degC and see if that helps.

opentoideas

@dc42 @deckingman thank you

its a Titan Aero with a volcano hotend

not hearing any skips or stutters. the feed gear seems to be moving steady at all speeds and I have the clamp all the way to tight and for these tests the temp is up at 235 though it is PETG

I am not convinced the the thermistor is accurate though as it does not seem as hot as normal though I have no idea what it is so it may have to wait until the batch of new ones I ordered arrives. its not the best to be trying to guess with unknown components and heat could be out which wont help.

deckingman

@opentoideas OK. I used to run Titans (5 of them) with my Diamond hot end. Steps per mm should be around 410. IIRC mine ranged from about 398 to 420. So, if you are having to use 460 without the hot end fitted, it would indicate an issue with the extruder motor or the hobbed bolt slipping or something like that, rather than a temperature thing? Unless the filament diameter is crazy out which is a bit unusual these days.

opentoideas

@deckingman

strange, the filament is certainly being gripped tightly as I cant move it when its being gripped but when you release the pressure on it it feels more reluctant to push.

yup something weird with the temps. i have a laser type thermostat gun and was only getting about 140C on the block.... set for 270C and now have 205 and the bloch went loose and had to be re tightened. I think my thermostat is way out.

like you I dont think its the whole issue but one thing at a time lol

opentoideas

tho this is what its doing right now on a 20mm calibration cube

the only good thing is the X and Y are damn near 20mm lol

again I am ignorant here but given the gaps between each extruded line I would say it is massively under extruding

sliced with speed settings of 50mm/s and 50% for first layers. ran at 48% speed so a slow print!

opentoideas

from the underside you can see the fill area is inconsistent too.

sorry is there a better way to do pictures?

opentoideas

ok the testing is over - the heatbreak just snapped.

when I pushed it I had plastic coming out at the top of the block

there was an unmarked and unknown nozzle in the block when I got it so when I removed that to replace it with a new know one I had to use LOT of force in a vice to move anything (even hot).

I think in the process I damaged the block as it certainly had marks from the force needed to get the old nozzle out - I have spares on the way but for now that puts any further testing on hold until they arrive

when they do i will start from scratch with all new parts.

opentoideas

not wanting to let a lack of a hotend stop me I have been trying to calibrate and figure out the leveling side of things....

@deckingman you were spot on 420 steps/mm for the extruder.

I wonder if the heatbreak was cracked and dragging or had a burr inside but I will see what happens once I have the parts to build the hotend again.

I cant seem to get any of the leveling routines to work. I suspect this is something to do with the Precision piezo sensor I am using as while I can level the Z axis without problem if i try to use G29, G30, G32 they all return :
Error: Z probe already triggered at start of probing move

hmm I have the Piezo wired in as a Z endstop not a probe and I just remembered there is a connector by the screen connector for this.....

as expected I think this will be yet another "user error" lol time to have another look at the instructions to see if I should have the piezo in the probe connection.