Zortrax M200 Duet Conversion
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Set it to Marlin. Leave your motors at 16x micro stepping then edit your config.g after you have uploaded it and set the I parameter in the M350 line to 1
Thank you.
So I've gone through the configurator and haven't changed much other than the dimensions of my bed, probing points offset, I've made XY probing active high/high end, Z probe at high end.
All other values I've just left as is.
My concern now is the heater probe settings.
I have a standard Zortrax thermistor on the bed with a resistance of 123.5kohm, and an S3D PT100 on the extruder. (I will change the bed to a PT100 later, but want to see it work for now).
Also should I use PID or bang bang for the bed?
The PT100 is connected to RTD1 on the daughter board, and the thermistor is connected to the bed sensor plug on the board near the bed heater terminal block.
I haven't changed any of the offset/jerk/current/etc settings as I'd assume they are set at a reasonable starting point and can be tweaked later as we see how this all goes.
Also, if I go to finish the configuration, it gives me 13 files to download.
Do I delete all the files already on my Duetwifi's SD and replace it with all of these, or just the config.g file?
Bit frustrating as I'm on the other side of the world and have to wait for people in other timezones before I can move on, but I really appreciate (and need) all the assistance.
Cheers again
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The configuration tool gives you the option to download a zip file. If you do that, you can upload that zip file via the General tab of the Settings page of DWC, and it will upload all 13 files in one go.
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The configuration tool gives you the option to download a zip file. If you do that, you can upload that zip file via the General tab of the Settings page of DWC, and it will upload all 13 files in one go.
Ok, thank you.
Do I delete the existing files first or will it overwrite them?
Can you help with the other questions regarding settings?
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It will overwrite them.
The only other configuration question I saw in your previous post is whether to use PID or bang bang for the bed heater. I suggest you start with bang bang and switch to PID when you have run auto tuning on the heater.
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Go to Zortrax and get the specs for your machine e.g stepper motor sizes thermistor types etc… , its basically an ultimaker clone so for basic parameters
X axis homes to min
Y axis homes to max
Z axis homes to maxX axis steps per mm 160 ; 1.8° steppers 16x micro stepping GT2 belts 20T Pulleys
Y axis steps per mm 160 ; 1.8° steppers 16x micro stepping GT2 belts 20T Pulleys
Z axis steps per mm 800 ; 1.8° steppers 16x micro stepping TR8 Lead Screwor
X axis steps per mm 320 ; 0.9° steppers 16x micro stepping GT2 belts 20T Pulleys
Y axis steps per mm 320 ; 0.9° steppers 16x micro stepping GT2 belts 20T Pulleys
Z axis steps per mm 1600 ; 0.9° steppers 16x micro stepping TR8 Lead Screwnormally xy are 0.9° degree and z is 1.8°
so..
X axis steps per mm 320 ; 0.9° steppers 16x micro stepping GT2 belts 20T Pulleys
Y axis steps per mm 320 ; 0.9° steppers 16x micro stepping GT2 belts 20T Pulleys
Z axis steps per mm 800 ; 1.8° steppers 16x micro stepping TR8 Lead ScrewYou need to check your stepper motor specs to be sure.
X axis max speed 18000 # mm/min
Y axis_max speed 18000 # mm/min
Z axis max speed 4800 # mm/minX max travel 213 # max travel in mm for alpha/X axis when homing
Y max travel 179 # max travel in mm for beta/Y axis when homing
Z max travel 195.8 # max travel in mm for gamma/Z axis when homingX axis current 1.3a ; 1300ma
Y axis current 1.3a ; 1300ma
Z axis current 1.0a ; 1000maE current 0.8 or 1.0a ; 800ma or 1000ma
E steps per mm 800 # Steps per mm for extruder stepper
E default feed rate 2700 # Default rate ( mm/minute ) for moves where only the extruder moves
E acceleration 1000 # Acceleration for the stepper motor, as of 0.6, arbitrary ratio
E max speed 45 # mm/s
E retract_length 5 # retract length in mm
E retract feedrate 45 # retract feedrate in mm/sec
E retract zlift length 0.15 # zlift on retract in mm, 0 disablesThese are just sort of basic settings for an ultimaker clone, they will need to be tweeked for your Zortrax. But they might give you a starting point or just confuse you more
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Go to Zortrax and get the specs for your machine e.g stepper motor sizes thermistor types etc… , its basically an ultimaker clone so for basic parameters
X axis homes to min
Y axis homes to max
Z axis homes to maxX axis steps per mm 160 ; 1.8° steppers 16x micro stepping GT2 belts 20T Pulleys
Y axis steps per mm 160 ; 1.8° steppers 16x micro stepping GT2 belts 20T Pulleys
Z axis steps per mm 800 ; 1.8° steppers 16x micro stepping TR8 Lead Screwor
X axis steps per mm 320 ; 0.9° steppers 16x micro stepping GT2 belts 20T Pulleys
Y axis steps per mm 320 ; 0.9° steppers 16x micro stepping GT2 belts 20T Pulleys
Z axis steps per mm 1600 ; 0.9° steppers 16x micro stepping TR8 Lead Screwnormally xy are 0.9° degree and z is 1.8°
so..
X axis steps per mm 320 ; 0.9° steppers 16x micro stepping GT2 belts 20T Pulleys
Y axis steps per mm 320 ; 0.9° steppers 16x micro stepping GT2 belts 20T Pulleys
Z axis steps per mm 800 ; 1.8° steppers 16x micro stepping TR8 Lead ScrewYou need to check your stepper motor specs to be sure.
X axis max speed 18000 # mm/min
Y axis_max speed 18000 # mm/min
Z axis max speed 4800 # mm/minX max travel 213 # max travel in mm for alpha/X axis when homing
Y max travel 179 # max travel in mm for beta/Y axis when homing
Z max travel 195.8 # max travel in mm for gamma/Z axis when homingX axis current 1.3a ; 1300ma
Y axis current 1.3a ; 1300ma
Z axis current 1.0a ; 1000maE current 0.8 or 1.0a ; 800ma or 1000ma
E steps per mm 800 # Steps per mm for extruder stepper
E default feed rate 2700 # Default rate ( mm/minute ) for moves where only the extruder moves
E acceleration 1000 # Acceleration for the stepper motor, as of 0.6, arbitrary ratio
E max speed 45 # mm/s
E retract_length 5 # retract length in mm
E retract feedrate 45 # retract feedrate in mm/sec
E retract zlift length 0.15 # zlift on retract in mm, 0 disablesThese are just sort of basic settings for an ultimaker clone, they will need to be tweeked for your Zortrax. But they might give you a starting point or just confuse you more
Thanks very much.
Zortrax will not tell me a thing, they are very difficult that way which is the reason for this project.
I would suspect all the steppers are basic 1.8 degrees, and I have taken resistance measurements for all of them before I started if that will help. I'll use your settings for 1.8 deg with 20T pulleys for starters.
X axis steps per mm 160 ; 1.8° steppers 16x micro stepping GT2 belts 20T Pulleys
Y axis steps per mm 160 ; 1.8° steppers 16x micro stepping GT2 belts 20T Pulleys
Z axis steps per mm 800 ; 1.8° steppers 16x micro stepping TR8 Lead ScrewI should point out that the Z screw is 12mm by 4mm pitch. I have replaced one in the past. Does that mean I'd use 1600 steps/mm for 1.8 deg stepper?
X max travel 213 # max travel in mm for alpha/X axis when homing
Y max travel 179 # max travel in mm for beta/Y axis when homing
Z max travel 195.8 # max travel in mm for gamma/Z axis when homing
Are these ultimaker dimensions? My Zortrax's physical travel dimensions are 195/195/175 respectively, so I'll use those?X axis homes to min
Y axis homes to max
Z axis homes to maxX and Y limit switches are both in the front left corner of the gantry in the Zortrax. Will this still apply?
Thanks very much for such a detailed reply.
While this is all new to me, this config tool is certainly helpful.
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It will overwrite them.
The only other configuration question I saw in your previous post is whether to use PID or bang bang for the bed heater. I suggest you start with bang bang and switch to PID when you have run auto tuning on the heater.
Sorry, yes a couple of my questions were worded as statements.
I have a standard Zortrax thermistor on the bed with a resistance of 123.5kohm, connected to the bed sensor plug on the board near the bed heater terminal block.
I have an S3D PT100 on the extruder connected to RTD1 on the daughter board.
What settings would I use for these in the config tool?
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For the bed thermistor, if you measured the resistance as 123k at room temperature, it is probably 100k at 25C. So enter 100000 as the R25 value. Try 4000 for B and zero for C. Leave the sensor channel set to ADC0.
For the nozzle, just set the sensor channel to RTD1 which means the first PT100. The other parameters don't matter then.
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OK,
So at this point I have it sort of starting to work.
As I've got a million questions no doubt regarding setting it up, I think I'll start a new thread in "tuning and tweaking" and save this thread for Zortrax specific mods and developments.
I must say the wifi is working fine with my portable router sitting beside the machine and my laptop right at the other side of the house.
Thank you very much for the help so far.
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Yep those were the dimensions used for the ultimaker bed, so use your Zortrax dimensions.
Sorry for your 12mm lead screw i dont know what thread pitch Zortrax are using.
Do you have a serial number for the printer because you could always download the latest firmware from their site. Then you can get all the original values from the actual firmware as starting point.
For your limit switches it will probably be
X axis homes to max
Y axis homes to min
Z axis homes to max -
Oh forget to say, when i saw your pictures it didn't look like there was a ground connection from your power supply to the chassis probably would be a good idea since its a metal cased printer.
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Yep those were the dimensions used for the ultimaker bed, so use your Zortrax dimensions.
Sorry for your 12mm lead screw i dont know what thread pitch Zortrax are using.
Do you have a serial number for the printer because you could always download the latest firmware from their site. Then you can get all the original values from the actual firmware as starting point.
For your limit switches it will probably be
X axis homes to max
Y axis homes to min
Z axis homes to maxCheers mate, sorry I just saw this.
Zortrax keeps their firmware under lock and key, it apparently can't be viewed or whatever.
If you see my other thread, I'm starting to get there as you'll see.
Seems I have to tweak some speeds for that sweet spot where the steppers don't resonate noisily, still pretty green with this sort of thing.
Please feel free to comment over there, I'll try to keep this thread to the nuts and bolts of the conversion.
I'll look at an earth strap if there isn't one there somewhere.
Loving the paneldue, and made a mount that sits it at 45deg right where you can use it, using existing mounting holes.
Soooooo much better to use than a tiny display with a jog dial right down the bottom where it's a little difficult to view.
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Seems I have to tweak some speeds for that sweet spot where the steppers don't resonate noisily, still pretty green with this sort of thing.
Check that your M350 command in config.g has parameter I1 not I0. The config tool used to generate I0 by default until very recently.
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Seems I have to tweak some speeds for that sweet spot where the steppers don't resonate noisily, still pretty green with this sort of thing.
Check that your M350 command in config.g has parameter I1 not I0. The config tool used to generate I0 by default until very recently.
Got that.
To be honest this machine has sat broken for a long time on the floor.
It seems to be getting happier as I use it. A little grease on the axis' might not go astray either….
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No problem, its looking good. The firmware can be found at http://support.zortrax.com/downloads/firmware/?printers=m200 al you need is the serial number of your machine.
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No problem, its looking good. The firmware can be found at http://support.zortrax.com/downloads/firmware/?printers=m200 al you need is the serial number of your machine.
Yes but it's a .bin file which I can't seem to open.
I ran the "search for a program to open this file" function and got nothing.
I'm pretty crap on computers though…if you PM me I'll give you a serial number if you'd like to have a look.
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Homing in on a result.
This cable strain relief might be temporary, as I've got some cable chain on the way and might use it flat across the top of the printer.
Messing around with a 0.3mm/raft/ABS/S3D print here, and it's going ok.
Certainly room for improvement and dialing in, but it's off to a decent start.
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Hi guys! I've seen this topic and i wanted to see your progress. I'm using z-mod (software mod) to use z-suite like an open software. I'm using dual fan mod and i adapted a microswiss hotend for d6 to my m200. My results are real good. Now i can print pla and get a big thin wall without warping or cracking. Can you post some photos of your prints? I'm really interested in comparing a regular slicer to the modded z-suite with a custom profile (there is a facebook page if you want infos).
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Been busy with work etc, but am just finishing it all off now.
Its worked fine for a couple of months now, but I just want to finish off all the wiring and print all my bits in the one colour, as well as install my new print bed:
1/4" cast ally plate with Printbite surface and Keenovo heater (200W, up from the Zortrax's 160W), hopefully it'll work well.
I'm just going to stay with the thermistor on this one for the heat bed.
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I am absolutely loving this printer!
Been too busy to look at it for months, but it's all finished now and working a treat.
Made some breakthroughs with the jerk/acceleration settings (but some questions coming) that allowed me to fine tune the retraction better.
By far the best addition other than the Duet/paneldue themselves was the cast ally/keenovo/printbite heated bed. Absolutely lightning fast heat up, perfect heat distribution and awesome print adhesion and release (just PLA at this stage).
Added Igus cable chain for the wiring, and they sent me a sample of their filament, so I printed up a set of central bearings to replace the crappy 6mm bearings it comes with, and that's all good too.
Good thing is I have another busted Zortrax sitting there, and a full set of everything used in this printer, as I bought 2 of everything, so I'm good to fit out another with no more money out.
