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    Extending the Wanhao i3 v2.1 factory wiring loom

    Scheduled Pinned Locked Moved
    Duet Hardware and wiring
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    • B0M0A0Kundefined
      B0M0A0K
      last edited by

      Having just about completed the wiring on my new Duet3d Wifi I am left thinking what a rats nest the whole thing is. This is because the factory wiring loom is cut specifically for the old Melzi board and the control case it sits in. It makes for a collection of long wires, short wires and a combination of both.

      I would like to tidy this up by trying to get wiring to better fit the new case. This means that some wires need extending. I am also very aware that messing with cable length can cause electrical issues (current drop, signal degradation etc), Heating Cartridge, Thermistor etc.

      What is the current thinking on modifying cable lengths on the factory loom?

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      No fate but what we make ....
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      • Phaedruxundefined
        Phaedrux Moderator
        last edited by

        For the short lengths you'd be dealing with I don't think there would be much of an issue.

        The bigger concern with extending the wiring, in my opinion, would be ensuring you have either a proper solder joint, or a proper locking connector.

        Z-Bot CoreXY Build | Thingiverse Profile

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        • B0M0A0Kundefined
          B0M0A0K
          last edited by B0M0A0K

          Thanks for that @Phaedrux . Did you have something specific in mind for suitable "locking connectors"? Do you mean stuff like Wago, Posi-Twist etc?

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          No fate but what we make ....
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          • B0M0A0Kundefined
            B0M0A0K
            last edited by

            I just keep running the old mantra "resistance is my enemy".

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            No fate but what we make ....
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            • Phaedruxundefined
              Phaedrux Moderator @B0M0A0K
              last edited by

              @b0m0a0k said in Extending the Wanhao i3 v2.1 factory wiring loom:

              suitable "locking connectors"

              I think it depends on what "suitable" means to you. For me, suitable locking connector ended up being Dupont connectors with a wrap of tape around them. In my case, with zero movement inside a conduit, that was suitable. In another case for the hotend heater leads in the loom to the print head, a Molex Micro Fit was more suitable. https://www.molex.com/molex/products/family?chanName=family&channel=products&key=microfit_30&pageTitle=Introduction

              Z-Bot CoreXY Build | Thingiverse Profile

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              • B0M0A0Kundefined
                B0M0A0K @Phaedrux
                last edited by

                @phaedrux That's fine, thanks for the assist.

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                No fate but what we make ....
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                • bricorundefined
                  bricor
                  last edited by bricor

                  The easiest and best method is to match the wire gauge, splice propely, solder the connection and use heat shrink to cover the splice. Use connectors only where needed, typically at the end of the cable where it iterfaces with a board or device. Using a connector to splice on an extension adds another potential point of failure.

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