Question about using existing and some new parts with duet 2



  • I bought a duet 2 not long ago from printed solid and while taking apart my existing printer so I can use the new board I ended up with some questions I hope someone who is knowledgeable will be able to shed some light on.

    If you are wondering about the printer I am upgrading it is a ender 3 pro.

    1. On the endstops the actual switches themselves use connectors for 3 wires but the cable only has 2 wires (one hole of the connector doesn't have a wire coming out of it) and the 2 wires connect fine to the previous controller board which only has a 2 pin connector for each endstop. I am wondering if I will have an issue if I replace the cable so it uses all 3 pins from the endstop connector and wire that to the duet 2 because the duet 2 uses 3 pin connector for endstops. Any advice would be appreciated.
    1. I bought a EZABL bed leveler which states for it to connect to the endstop connector. While I've looked at the reprap configurator website I'm not sure exactly what options should be selected and when searching only found a few references of code others have used to get it working and nothing about setting it up using reprap configurator. Anyone have advice or can help me make a bit more sense of the code talked about in the forum posts? https://forum.duet3d.com/topic/8963/ezabl-z-probe-wiring-and-configuration/13 I think that forum post may be an answer once I get everything wired and begin actual configuration of everything.

  • administrators

    For #1 I recommend you keep the 2 wire endstop cables. Connect the wires to the two outer pins of the 3-pin endstop connector on the Duet.



  • @dc42 that is actually how the cable is connected on the endstop switch side. The middle pin has nothing connected to it but the pins on the side do. Only problem is the wires aren't color coded so I could only assume they are right and would go to the right pins on the duet if I match what the endstop side looks like.

    Most if not all the cables on this printer are like that. Think there is a chance I need to actually figure out how to test everything to figure out what wire is what and possibly rewire things? If so any suggestions as to how I would go about doing this and maybe tools I would need?

    I may of found the solution to 2nd question but I wouldn't really know until I wire everything up and test.



  • you have to connect them to stop and gnd. Do not connect the 3.3v line.
    these are simple switches. so they either complete or break the connection. For this it does not matter and the connections can be swapped and you will get the same result.



  • So I have an additional question upon further inspection of my cabling. This is in regards to the ender 3 stepper motors. The stepper motors have 6 pins with the cable only having 4 wires coming from it. On the part that connects to the stepper motor (The side of the cable that has 6 pins) it has a wire then empty spot then two more wires then an empty spot then one last wire. Should I keep these cables exactly as they are like with the endstop or what should I do?



  • You only need the 4 connections as described.



  • @dwfl89 To elaborate on what @jay_s_uk has said, it sounds like the steppers have a centre tap (uniploar) which isn't being used. So the other 4 wires should be the ends of each pair of coils which is fine.



  • Ok, so the 4 connections in the exact same order they are already laid out in I assume?

    I do have another question... I sort of want to move my box on a shelf below my printer and would need to extend my cables for the heated bed ... Anyone know of a safe/easy way to do it? I've seen suggestions about using xt60 adapters because they can handle up to 60A and can be used in a lot of hobby electronics would this be fine or do you all have a easier suggestion?



  • The 6pin PH to 4pin XH or dupont cabling seems to be very common, and all the ones I've seen has had a pinout compatible with the duet; but thats no guarantee that yours will.

    If you have a multimeter its easy enough to measure the resistance between 1-2 and 3-4 they should be the same. If the motor turns the wrong way you can reverse the connector, or change the firmware.

    Most cheap RC connectors will work as long as you keep an eye on the current rating. I used xt30 as they're smaller and still carry enough current. I'd pay more attention to the wire length, wire gauge and voltage drop to ensure it stays cool and you don't end up loosing too voltage resulting in a underpowered bed.


  • administrators

    Unless you need rapid disconnect, I would just use a 30A chocolate block connector.



  • or wago 222.



  • I just want to take a moment to thank everyone for their responses so far.

    Ok so get a multimeter and measure 1-2 and 3-4 on the 4 pin side of the cable and make sure the readings match. Just to double check because I don't really fiddle with electronic internals. The connector needs to be connected to the stepper motor using the side that has the 6 pins when I am using the multimeter to check the 4 pin side correct?

    When it comes to the distance for the cables I want to extend I'd say about 3 feet on the short end but likely around 4 feet. Will that be ok for the heated bed and other things like fans, stepper motors, & hotend? I want to keep my electronics one ikea table down the enclosure I am building.



  • yeah, measure the 4 pin connector when the 6 pin connector is connected to the motor. (its likely more or less a formality)

    3-4 feet isnt a very long cable, but you still have to take into account how much current goes through them and size it appropriately to avoid voltage drops that can affect performance. Noise might be something to consider though.



  • Would I get noise on a cable 3-4 feet? Also when you say size appropriately do you mean use slightly thicker wire?



  • I mean know what current you need to put though the cable. Choose a cable that has a resistance that gives you an acceptable voltage loss and has a suitable current rating.

    You might find this useful, note the example is purposely absurd.
    https://www.calculator.net/voltage-drop-calculator.html?material=copper&wiresize=212.9&voltage=24&phase=dc&noofconductor=1&distance=4&distanceunit=feet&amperes=20&x=56&y=16

    And this should give you a good idea of the ampacity for the different thicknesses of wire.
    https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/American_wire_gauge#Tables_of_AWG_wire_sizes

    Noise? Complex question. Short answer, yes. Enough to cause problems, hard to say.



  • Just got multimeter in and tested 1-2 and the 3-4 pins have the exact same reading!

    However I do have another question now that I think about it. Someone on the comments awhile back on a fan I bought mentioned that the 2 wires were swapped on their fans so the red wire was actually black and the black wire was actually red. Is there a way to test for this before plugging the fans into the duet?


  • administrators

    @dwfl89 said in Question about using existing and some new parts with duet 2:

    Someone on the comments awhile back on a fan I bought mentioned that the 2 wires were swapped on their fans so the red wire was actually black and the black wire was actually red. Is there a way to test for this before plugging the fans into the duet?

    That wire swap would be very unusual. However, if you are not sure then you can connect the fan directly to the PSU to test it. Or, if your Duet is a WiFi or Ethernet revision 1.03 or later, plug the fan into an always-on fan port to test it, so that if the wires are the wrong way round it only risks blowing the blade fuse and not the fan mosfet.



  • So I just realized something else. The connectors my cables for the endstops, stepper motors. and temp reader for the heated bed currently use won't fit on the duet. So it means I am going to get some crimpers to fix the cables. For some of the super short ones like the fans I want to make a male connector to connect to their current end then a female of the correct type for the duet. The longer ones I can just cut the end strip it and add the right connector. The one problem I run into is whenever I search for male connectors they are always pcb connectors not ones to use at the end of a wire like you can sometimes find on fan extension cables for computers. Anyone know the wording I should use to find some of these male connectors I am talking about?

    Anyone know of a guide so I can find what connectors my current cables use as well? I'm adding a few photos that may help. The first2 are examples of the connectors that my ender 3 uses for all it's electronics after that is a fan connector for one of the fans I bought. 0_1557013325451_IMG_2494.JPG 0_1557013358756_IMG_2495.JPG 0_1557013452556_IMG_2496.JPG



  • they are jst-xh connectors

    you just solder wires to the female one and put a heatshrink over the solder job.



  • @dwfl89 said in Question about using existing and some new parts with duet 2:

    Anyone know the wording I should use to find some of these male connectors I am talking about?

    https://www.aliexpress.com/item/10-20-50-Factory-Sell-XH-Connector-White-2-3-4-5-6-7-8Pin-2/32907788751.html

    Pictures didn't upload properly btw, so I'm just going off the other guy saying they're JST-XH conenctors. Male housing and pins cost much more than male headers. You might find cheaper if you shop around. But if the move is permanent, just cut off the old XH connectors and crimp on the new ones.


 

Looks like your connection to Duet3D was lost, please wait while we try to reconnect.