wanhao duplicator 9



  • anyone converted wanhao duplicator 9 to duet2wifi or duet2eth that can share a config?


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    looks to be fairly similar to other moving bed printers. You can start using this guide:

    https://duet3d.dozuki.com/Guide/Ender+3+Pro+and+Duet+Maestro+Guide+Part+1:+Wiring/37

    And change it where the ender differs from the WD9



  • thanks, it is a simple printer, the issue is I hoped someone has all the config numbers already calculated (steps per mm for xyze) everything else is few clicks trough configurator utility 🙂



  • If you send M503 to your current board before you do the swap, it may tell you most of the settings you'll need.



  • @blt3dp said in wanhao duplicator 9:

    send M503

    thanks, completely forgot about M503



  • @smece I have a duplicator 9 and just now saw this, I am happy to share my config with you, although I'm guessing you may have figured it out by now.



  • @Jon said in wanhao duplicator 9:

    @smece I have a duplicator 9 and just now saw this, I am happy to share my config with you, although I'm guessing you may have figured it out by now.

    share 🙂 I converted my ender5, d9 is friends machine and he has not started yet so having your config will help for sure

    thanks!



  • Terribly sorry for the long wait for reply, but here ya go. I'm running V1.04 with Firmware Version: 2.04 (2019-11-01b1)
    WiFi Server Version: 1.22 & web Interface Version: 1.22.6
    --Please note that I have the left and right Z motors NOT hooked up together like you are used to seeing stock but instead setup for auto level with macros, so please attach the right Z motor to E1 and the left Z motor to the "drive 2" with jumpers in, as shown in the wiring schematic "option A". This has been VERY reliable and consistent as is.

    Also,
    -- everything following X_ is simply a note to myself about changes I have made that is different from the standard settings.

    --my bed temp sensor is mapped to the "E1" thermistor, NOT the bed sensor as mine was too short.

    --My hot end and parts cooling fans are on "Fan0" & "Fan1" I cant remember which one is which though...

    --above settings tab, please create new marcos by hitting "+make new", then "macro" and pick a title. Mine is "Auto Level X Gantry" (allows push button auto level) and paste this in it:
    G28 ; home
    G30 P0 X30 Y125 Z-99999 ; probe near the left leadscrew, in the middle of the Y axis
    G30 P1 X302 Y125 Z-99999 S2 ; probe near the right leadscrew and calibrate 2 motors

    --again, create another one, I call it "reset BLTouch Error" and paste:
    M280 P3 S160 I1 ; reset blinking BLTouch error
    that will save you 10 min of frantic googling if your BLTouch starts blinking leaving you stuck, hopefully you never need it...
    Have fun, you have the best hardware you could imagine!
    If you desire stl mounts im happy to share what I have, let me know if you have ANY questions as I will now get a notification of any input.
    Again, sorry for the delay...



  • Wiring diagram is found here

    To elaborate on the stl files if you would like, places board with the antenna and SD card at the location where that cable mounts to it. Works acceptably well reception wise. My screen is the 4.3" (smallest screen from filastruder.com) and fits like a charm.... AFTER you break the orig mounts off and put mine is that is... yes, its clean looking!

    -This setup assumes you have a BLTouch, mine is V2.2 with the little cutout that you scribe through to change voltage.
    -Hotend heater is hooked up to "E0 Heater"
    -underneath case fan is connected to "FAN2" and like the upper fan for the red heatsink is temp controlled and WON'T turn on until (i think) 40c. I have a fan mounted under the board that runs all the time as suggested by Duet

    -End stop sensors:
    Z: not used (BLTouch is used)
    Y: yep, the beds Y switch
    X: uh huh, you guessed it... the X gantry switch!
    E0: filament run out switch, setup as a simple switch that is setup to be "open" with filament in it, if you don't have that now its ok, it will still run but will be fully functional once you install it.
    -All end stop switch's are connected to pins "GND & STOP" only. Polarity does not matter on any of them.



  • bed.g config.g deployprobe.g homeall.g homex.g homey.g homez.g pause.g retractprobe.g sleep.g stop.g tpost0.g
    Since I'm terrible at this uploading / posting thing that most of take for granted, I would appreciate any pointers for easier steps to provide this info as well as any editing someone can add to improve operation of "our" setup.



  • Oh yeah, I almost forgot! I use Cura and it requires different start and end Gcode which took me several days to figure out... here ya go, copy and paste into cura:
    START:
    G28 ; home all axes
    G92 E0 ; zero the extruded length
    G1 Z15 F500 ; raise the extruder 15mm
    G1 E3 F100 ; extrude 3mm of feed stock
    G1 X25 Y20 Z.15 F300 ; move to bed to prep for purge
    G1 X30 E8 F500 ; start purge of 8mm blob in 5mm to nab boogers
    G1 X110 E8 F700 ; finish purge line with 8mm & final fast wipe
    G1 Z0 ; end of prime & lower nozzle
    G92 E0 ; zero the extruded length
    M82 ; extruder absolute mode

    END:
    M83 ; extruder relative mode
    G1 E-5 F3000 ; retract filament 5mm fast
    G91 ; relative positioning
    G1 Z+4 X-20 Y20 F1000 ; move Z up 4mm & move X/Y away
    G90 ; absolute positioning
    G1 X3 Y205 F800 ; move X/Y to end position
    M104 S0 ; reduce extruder heat to zero
    G10 P0 R-273.15 S-273.15 ; turn off extruder heat
    M140 S-273.15 ; was M140 S0 turn off bed heat
    M18 ; disable motors



  • Thanks a million. No worries for the delay, the D9 conversion is not yet started so this will save us a lot of time 🙂



  • My pleasure! Any other questions just let me know



  • I'm sure we'll have questions when the conversion starts, friend's waiting on some parts and our post is in strike so who knows when he'll start conversion.. I assume when he start he'll join the forum himself and ask questions 😄