My CoreXYUVAB as of today
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@pipersw said in My CoreXYUVAB as of today:
I see the hot end with the metrol switch.
Where have you find the soo small oil filled bronze bushes and steel dowels ?I can't remember exactly - it was along time ago. They aren't difficult things to find and an internet search will likely throw up numerous suppliers. The bronze bushes go by the trade name of "Oilite" but if you put "Sintered bronze bushes" into a search engine it will likely turn something up. The ones I used were 6mm ID and something like 9mm OD and about 12mm long. The steel dowel pins are just that. I don't know of any other name for them. Just a steel pin with a chamfer at each end. The ones I used are 6mm diameter and about 16 mm long (I think).
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I have to ask, so many wires, so many tubes, so many things emitting heat, how come you did not take the watercooling road ?
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@arhi said in My CoreXYUVAB as of today:
I have to ask, so many wires, so many tubes, so many things emitting heat, how come you did not take the watercooling road ?
Err, not sure I understand the question
. The complexity comes primarily from the fact that I have 6 extruders feeding a mixing hot end, and because it's biggish printer and I don't want Bowden tubes which would be over a metre long, I have chosen to mount the extruders on a separate moving (UV) gantry.There are only 2 primary sources of heat. The first is the bed heater - not much I can do about water cooling that as it needs to get hot.
The second is the Diamond hot end which has a single 40 watt heater cartridge. But it does have 5off modified E3D style heat sinks which are cooled by a single fan. These heat sinks could be water cooled but they fit in a tight circle with the fins almost touching each other, so there is no room to fit water jackets around them. But even if I could, I'd need to fit a radiator and pump somewhere, then run water pipes to the 5 heat sink jackets and return back to the pump. As well as wiring for the pump and probably extra temperature sensors, this would just add even more tubes and wires and gain nothing apart from replacing a single fan.The only other sources of heat are secondary. The Duet boards themselves but they are passively cooled and need neither fans nor water cooling. I did have a fan blowing onto the back of the main board but found it unnecessary so I've removed it. And the motors produce heat. But now that I've mounted the motors on aluminium mounts which in turn are bolted to the aluminium frame, this all acts like a giant heat sink so they too are passively cooled requiring neither fans nor water cooling.
Edit. There is a water cooled varint of the Diamond 5 colour but even the inventor refers to it as experimental. Besides, it replaces a single fan with a pump, radiator and lots of tubing - not sure why I would want to do that as the printer sits in an unheated chamber.
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That makes sense, you are not enclosing it so all the passive heat has where to leave and the single fan cools all those cold sides of that single hotend. I didn't expect that diamond is heated with only 40W. Thanks for clarification.
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@arhi said in My CoreXYUVAB as of today:
That makes sense, you are not enclosing it so all the passive heat has where to leave and the single fan cools all those cold sides of that single hotend. I didn't expect that diamond is heated with only 40W. Thanks for clarification.
Actually, the stock 5 colour Diamond comes with a massive 80 watt heater which is just too powerful and "un-taimable". I've demonstrated printing at up to 300mm/sec using a 0.5mm nozzle and 0.3mm layer heigh using a 40 Watt heater, so it's more than adequate.
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@arhi Ohh and I almost forgot. Although it's a single fan, it has to be massively powerful. That's another modification I had to do because I had to adapt the hot end to take a 50mm fan instead of a 40mm fan in order to get the required 27cfm that it needs. The reason is that in order to fit 5 sinks in the same circumference, the manufacturer had to reduce the diameter of the lower fins. These are the ones that do all the work so if you make them smaller, they are less efficient, which leads to heat creep and filament jamming.
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Still have too little experience with RRF but I doubt it has a poor heat control, PID is something that should be easily tuned and more powerful heater should only be beneficial. I normally tweak PID (have not tried on duet yet) by looking at the temp on the camera and not on the sensor and achieving overshoot that gets nozzle up to the right temperature before everything starts to settle down, so overshoot on the sensor is significant but overshoot on the nozzle itself is almost not there.
The fan on your extruder looks industrial
and I'd even guess it's AC mains powered, but to me it looks like too much air going "everywhere". If you mostly print PLA it's probably ok but "that fan" will IMO not work with ABS/HIPS/PC/Nylon but I might be wrong. Doing it with water seems more compact and light to me. "Seems" being the operative word here. I'm 100% sure I'd try to ride the water cooling road here, no clue if I'd stay on it or no, but I'm sure I'd try -
@arhi
The fan is most certainly not mains powered and supplies just the right amount of air for the application. Further more, that air does not "go everywhere" but is directed via purposely re0designed ducting to be delivered precisely where it is needed. The 80 Watt heater was downright dangerous because if a Mosfet failed, it could exceed the temperature that aluminium melts at.I suggest you look at my blog which is linked in my signature, because on the one hand we have your opinions based on nothing more than conjecture and zero knowledge of Diamond hot ends, and on the other hand we have my findings based on extensive research and testing.
You might find these posts of interest
https://somei3deas.wordpress.com/2017/10/04/the-diamond-5-colour-fullcolor-hot-end-and-other-related-stuff/
https://somei3deas.wordpress.com/2017/10/14/the-diamond-5-colour-part-2/and especially this one
https://somei3deas.wordpress.com/2017/10/23/the-diamond-5-colour-part-3-finally-tamed/
but also these............
https://somei3deas.wordpress.com/2017/10/14/mount-for-the-diamond-5-colour/
https://somei3deas.wordpress.com/2017/01/11/using-the-diamond-hotend-with-duetwifi/
https://somei3deas.wordpress.com/2017/01/28/the-stripey-toothpaste-effect-of-the-diamond-hot-end/
https://somei3deas.wordpress.com/2018/10/14/real-3d-printing-at-high-speeds-and-even-higher-melt-rates-with-a-large-nozzle/There are many more posts on my blog - take a look and if you still have any criticisms or comments to make, post them on my blog.
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@deckingman I think you misunderstood me
I was trying to get info, not give suggestions.
As for "The air goes everywhere" comment, I see the ducts to how air enters the cooled parts of the hotend, but it exits "everywhere", that was behind that sentence, but now I'm thinking that fan might be sucking the air through the cooled parts of the hotend and then the exit of the air is upwards.
Anyhow it obviously works awesome, idea is to better understand the machine, and your line of thought, not to give suggestions about stuff I know zero about :D. I presented my line of thoughts why I believe I'd try water, not cause I think water would work but 'cause I used water in number of instances and was awed with results so now I try water everywhere. In any case I'm off to read more on posted links, that beast looks awesome and looks like you did a lot of interesting things to it.
