mellow nf crazy hotend
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@jens55 said in mellow nf crazy hotend:
titanium heat break instead of the steel one I currently use.
get the original from e3d (heat break), the prc ones are bad, they are not polished inside
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@wesc said in mellow nf crazy hotend:
The real Mosquito has all kinds of problems with jamming with pla, even with a fan. The forums and discord’s are littered with people complaining about mosquito pla jams. It’s either heat creep or too small diam tube.
had no clue, good to know
Pla is a difficult case because its hdt is so low, but it’s ironic that the most expensive hot end can’t reliably print the most common cheapest filament
well I always suggest ppl wanting to upgrade hotend that if they are going to print mostly PLA their original "shitty" PTFE lined extruder will usually perform much better than fancy expensive all metal one.. I don't print with PLA much .. this extruder I tested first with ABS (did actually a 20+ hours single print with it without problem) but was not able to print a single line with PLA, jams immediately.. cooling, no cooling does not make a difference
... but the thing is I wanted this ender5 to be PLA printer, I have already 3 dedicated ABS printers, wanted E5 to be PLA printer and this new toolchanger from e3d to be the "universal/testing" platform .. so I'm going to dig out my original aero that's sitting somewhere in some box and use that on ender and I'll use the flex3drive on the toolchanger -
what's totally crazy here is that PETG is behaving like polimorf
.. the mellow top is touching 8mm thick almost full infill (3mm+3mm solid and 2mm 80% infill with 6 perimeters 0.5mm) and two M2.5 screws that go trough it and reach embedded M2.5 nut.. mellow's heatsink managed to heat up screws so much that nuts sank into plastic more than .5mm (maybe even a whole mm) in "no time printing" .. and there are M2.5 washers, steel ones, under those nuts .. that tells me the top of the heatsink (30C on original images) is way over 90C -
@smece Well it's called a "crazy" hot end - guess that's why
My best guess would be that the 4 "pillars" between the heater block and the (what should be ) cold part are made from solid rod, whereas on the genuine Mosquito, they are are the same 75 micron thin wall tubing. Are you able to take it apart to check?
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@smece I am cooling my Dragon Hotend with two 30mm fans in a push-pull configuration and I am cooling my V6 also in this way. The intake fan is a Sunon 30x10mm and the outtake is also a Sunon but 30x20mm. In this way I think my hotend cooling chamber is under lower pressure with sucks even more air.
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@jens55 The E3D V6 isn't a particularly good design. It works, and thermal management is OK, but there are mechanical problems.
The mount is large and round, with no flats to prevent the heatsink from rotating in the extruder- you have to rely on clamping pressure to prevent the heatsink from turning. The heatbreak threads into the heatsink, but there is no way to twist it in securely. The result is that through temperature cycling and vibration, it eventually works loose during prints and allows the heater block and heatbreak to wobble, completely wrecking print quality. The heatsink fins are round and the fan mount is a piece of plastic that snaps on. There's nothing to stop the fan from rotating on the heatsink, and it does, whichever way the wires pull it. Sooner or later it contacts the heater block and melts. The heatbreak throat is very thin and can easily be broken if twisted too hard, and will readily bend if you crash the nozzle into the bed (and who has never done that?).
I've been using a $18 hotend from China on my printer for close to two years without problems. It uses the same round mount E3D uses, but makes several improvements over the E3D unit. The heatbreak is held in place with set screws, so it can't rotate. The heatbreak throat is thicker than E3D's and doesn't bend when you have a head crash. The supplied fan is junk (aren't they all?) but it mounts on a metal bracket that is screwed to the heatsink so it never loosens or rotates. Replacing the fan with a $7 Sunon unit solves the fan problem. It uses E3D type nozzles. I print ABS, TPU, PETG, and occasionally PLA without any issues.
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I can see some issues with the V6 but if it is as bad as it sounds then why did Slice Engineering make the 'Copperhead' hot end which is a somewhat improved V6 ?
I don't actually use the V6 heat sink, I use the Chimera heat sink. So far I have only bent one heat break and it took considerable effort. It is still quite usable although when you use the bent heat break in a two material setup it gets to be a pain to keep track of the offsets between nozzles which keeps changing based on the rotational position of the heat break. There are set screws for the heat break and because the nozzle top tightens against the heat break bottom, I have never run into an issue with the nozzle loosening. I have run into the nozzle loosening issue in the common hot ends as used for example in the Creality CR10 as the nozzle never locks against the heat break.
mrehorstdmd, any chance of a URL to point to the hot end you are using ?
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@deckingman said in mellow nf crazy hotend:
My best guess would be that the 4 "pillars" between the heater block and the (what should be ) cold part are made from solid rod, whereas on the genuine Mosquito, they are are the same 75 micron thin wall tubing. Are you able to take it apart to check?
It came disassembled
.. yes they are tubing, I'd say regular stainless steel, they are very thin walled, easy to damage, tubes ... I didn't measure how thick they are, eyeballing them I'd say .1mm but I will check them under microscope to measure exact thickness -
@dragonn said in mellow nf crazy hotend:
Dragon Hotend
Seen the dragon few weeks ago, looks like they copied the idea from mosquito but made it bigger and easier to manufacture maybe, dunno ..
I'm cooling the
mosquitomellow crazy hotend with single 25x5mm fan (can't fit bigger fan there nor there will be point imo .. now 25x5mm fans are puny as you know and I have not seen 25x10 .. I have only one on mellow and in theory, I can add one on the back to have push-pull too but they are advertising that it can work without any fans so while it can maybe made to work acceptably, imo this is a total fail I'll rather go back to V6 or TitanAero as I don't see the benefit of mosquitothis clone then... I wanted to use it to print PLA not PEEK -
@jens55 said in mellow nf crazy hotend:
I can see some issues with the V6 but if it is as bad as it sounds then why did Slice Engineering make the 'Copperhead' hot end which is a somewhat improved V6 ?
'cause they wanted to have cheaper hotend in their portfolio ?
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I used e3d X nozzle for this test, first time I tried X nozzle, they are support to have some polyfobic coating that makes plastic not stick to them ... well ..
(yes I already moved it to V6 ..) this green/blue thing is PLA, I cleaned the inside with nylon (not very good I might add will have to repeat that) but the outside won't clean easy .. will have to check it out later but it's hardly polyfobic
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Well yes, that makes sense .... but if it was THAT bad, they wouldn't want to sully their brand name with it. It looks like it will only be marginally cheaper but could easily capture more market share from those of us who didn't win in the lottery.
BTW, in Canadian currency the price for the Mosquito is as follows:
Hot end $200
heater $30
temperature sensor $57
fan not listed by vendor
tip $56
Thermal paste $16
For a whopping total of $359 minus the fan
The same supplier lists the E3D V6 full kit with fan for $79 (with heater, sensor, fan and small bit of thermal paste but only a regular nozzle)... and then it has problems printing PLA .....
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@smece said in mellow nf crazy hotend:
I used e3d X nozzle for this test, first time I tried X nozzle, they are support to have some polyfobic coating that makes plastic not stick to them ... well ..
Thank you for posting that! I was pondering on trying that nozzle next at $43 * 2 .... so with freight you just saved me a cool $100 (yeah it's only Canadian dollars but it's still better than a poke in the eye with a sharp stick)
Edit: if you read the details it says it will stick 'less' ... not that it won't stick
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@smece said in mellow nf crazy hotend:
now 25x5mm
I actually found I have 25x10mm 12V few pieces, I assume they will cool way better than these 25x5mm 5V so I'll give it a go with 2 fans push/pull with these bigger 25x10mm 12V ..
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@jens55 said in mellow nf crazy hotend:
... and then it has problems printing PLA .....
everything else I can explain, the price, why ppl would buy it, everything ... but not this
... if it's not printing PLA there will be a hell to pay @jens55 said in mellow nf crazy hotend:
Edit: if you read the details it says it will stick 'less' ... not that it won't stick
I don't see it stick less ... on another printer where I have same nozzle for ~3 years now, some microswiss hardened steel one (not black, shiny) where I printed a lot of ABS and PETG and it's still shiny .. the alu heatblock is black and disgusting but nozzle is shiny ... this "polyfobic" nozzle didn't print anything and it's already dirty
... just my ranting about e3d today nothing else .. nozzle probbly performs good have not yet done a proper test (got .2, .3 and .5 of those X ones, now I put regular brass one in the mellow as no point using X for any testing now, I doubt that printer will see much printing since if it does not become operational till monday it will go in the garage waiting next free time slot to be dedicated to it (and that's not slice nor e3d fault, only my missmanagement of time and stupid decisions) -
@smece said in mellow nf crazy hotend:
I'm cooling the mosquito with single 25x5mm fan (can't fit bigger fan there nor there will be point imo .. now 25x5mm fans are puny as you know and I have not seen 25x10 .. I have only one on mellow and in theory, I can add one on the back to have push-pull too but they are advertising that it can work without any fans
so while it can maybe made to work acceptably, imo this is a total fail I'll rather go back to V6 or TitanAero as I don't see the benefit of mosquito then... I wanted to use it to print PLA not PEEK ..............and this is exactly what really hacks me of about people buying clones. Not only does it not work, but then the original gets the bad reputation for all the faults that the cheap, crap, clone has.
You say you are quote "cooling the mosquito with single 25x5mm fan". But you are not ! You are cooling the cheap crap "mellow nf crazy" hot end with a single fan. Then you go on to say "I'll rather go back to V6 or TitanAero as I don't see the benefit of mosquito" but you haven't tried a Mosquito! Just a cheap crap clone that looks like one.
It reminds me of a post I saw elsewhere some time back from someone who bought a cheap, crap, clone of a Diamond hot end that didn't work. It later transpired that the cheap crap clone was actually made from brass plated steel rather than solid brass. But rather than face up to the fact that the cheap clone was crap, the OP insisted that all Diamond hot ends were crap.
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@jens55 said in mellow nf crazy hotend:
Well yes, that makes sense .... but if it was THAT bad, they wouldn't want to sully their brand name with it. It looks like it will only be marginally cheaper but could easily capture more market share from those of us who didn't win in the lottery.
BTW, in Canadian currency the price for the Mosquito is as follows:
Hot end $200
heater $30
temperature sensor $57
fan not listed by vendor
tip $56
Thermal paste $16
For a whopping total of $359 minus the fan
The same supplier lists the E3D V6 full kit with fan for $79 (with heater, sensor, fan and small bit of thermal paste but only a regular nozzle)... and then it has problems printing PLA .....
You only need buy the hot end for 200 C$. You can use a cheapo heater and it'll likely work just as well but maybe not as reliably. You don't need buy the high temperature sensor, you can use any cheapo thermistor if all you want to print is "normal" filaments. You don't need buy the vanadium nozzle - you can use any M6 x 1 threaded nozzle. You don't need to buy the Boron Nitride paste, you could use something like Loctite 8065 (or nothing at all).
As for problems printing PLA, are you sure or is that just hearsay? Do these problems exist with the genuine part of just the cheap clones (we can see above how problems with cheap clones tarnish the reputation of the genuine article). Are the "problems" down to user error? i.e. people turning the printer or fan off before the hot end has fully cooled.
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@deckingman yes you are 10000% correct, I hate that too and then I do it too subconsciously
... now to my defence I did say numerous times it's a clone and I'v seen images of original showing something completely different and .. and ...but yes, serious mistake, and just for the sake of web indexes I'll try to go trough my messages in this topic and edit them
EDIT: I found only one place I called it "mosquito" and I fixed it, if you see any other lemme know
@deckingman said in mellow nf crazy hotend:
As for problems printing PLA, are you sure or is that just hearsay?
I hope the PLA problems (I never heard about them btw) are from these clones and not from original as if they did not fake the imagery (and I doubt they would dare) there's no way PLA will jam there... now, as I mentioned, there's an original waiting to be installed on the Wanhao D9 and we gonna test the crap out of it
.. and I'm gonna take same thermal images with same camera I imaged the mellow so I will update this thread (in few weeks I think) -
@jens55 This is the one I used: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32865420265.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.6e4a4c4dKNUgrr
I've replaced an E3D V6 on a printer at the makerspace with one of these also. I originally thought my printer's 50C enclosure killed the fan, but the one at the makerspace behaved exactly the same way- it ran quietly for a couple hours then started making a lot of noise. I replaced it with a Sunon fan that I bought from Digikey for $7 IRIC (maybe obsolete now):
Sunon doesn't make 30mm 24V fans, so I use a buck converter to drop the voltage from the controller to 12V to drive the fan.
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@mrehorstdmd Off topic but that's kind of spooky because I recently ordered some of the exact same fans for a project I'm working on. The only difference is that the part number contains "V3" instead of "V2". May I ask if they play nicely with PWM do you happen to know?
