Hope you are all having a very happy Christmas (or whatever else you celebrate). Stay safe !!

A special THANK YOU to everybody at the DUET team for your incredible service both in the design and especially the support !!

I just finished a test print with 100% success. Thanks for the suggestions.
I think the major problem was that I never removed the gap from when I was printing both the model and support with pla. I had completely forgotten about this.
I also printed slower although I don't actually know which of the many speeds is used - I suspect it was 26 mm/sec for petg and pla at 40 mm/sec.
The petg and pla stuck together to a limited degree ... enough to hold everything together yet not so much as to make support removal difficult.

I only have two words ...... Woooooo Hoooooo !

If your offset values are zero, you are probing points that the Duet doesn't know about and you are then taking those probing points to adjust the mesh height. You are creating a bad height map and then applying it.
I don't understand how you can possibly expect any results but crap. You might as well work without any height map.
It's odd that you get stripes but before anyone can give you any suggestions about what is wrong, you MUST set things up properly !!!

Moderators .... could we please lock this thread and stop with the negativity please ?

I think I would like to give some cudos to all the people bending over backwards to help abstracktlighting. You are showing an amazing amount of patience !

Another update - I have now printed three cover plates, the first one had some issues but the next two were perfect - I am very optimistic about the speed change.

Temperature was brought up as a potential issue for PETG. I dug out the details - Nozzle: 200 - 240 C, bed 75 - 85 C .... so I am right where I should be.

Thanks again to all that offered their input! To be honest, I could have stared at the settings til the cows come home and not seen that I had set it for higher than the recommended speed. I had been printing at that speed for quite some time. It's great to be able to bounce these kinds of things off the people in this forum because although it might stick out like a sore thumb to everybody else, sometimes it's difficult for the one staring at the problem to see the trees for the forest!

@Co3get, here is my heater section of config.g:

; Heaters

M308 S0 P"bedtemp" Y"thermistor" T100000 B4200 ; configure sensor 0 as thermistor on pin bedtemp
M308 S3 P"e2temp" Y"thermistor" A"bed sense 2" T100000 B4200 ; configure alternate or second bed heat sensor
M950 H0 C"bedheat" T0 ; create bed heater output on bedheat and map it to sensor 0
M140 H0 ; set bed heater to heater zero
M143 H0 S120 ; set temperature limit for heater 0 to 120C
M307 H0 B0 S1.00 ; disable bang-bang mode for the nozzle heater and set PWM limit
M308 S1 P"e0temp" Y"thermistor" T100000 B4200 ; configure sensor 1 as thermistor on pin e0temp
M950 H1 C"e0heat" T1 ; create nozzle heater output on e0heat and map it to sensor 1
M143 H1 S280 ; set temperature limit for heater 1 to 280C
M307 H1 B0 S0.6 ; disable bang-bang mode for the nozzle heater and set PWM limit
M308 S2 P"e1temp" Y"thermistor" T100000 B4200 ; configure sensor 2 as thermistor on pin e0temp
M950 H2 C"e1heat" T2 ; create nozzle heater output on e0heat and map it to sensor 2
M143 H2 S280 ; set temperature limit for heater 2 to 280C
M307 H2 B0 S0.6 ; disable bang-bang mode for the nozzle heater and set PWM limit

It's been a while since I set that up so am not too sure what all was done.
I do know that in order to display the second bed temperature on the graph in DWC, you need to go into the 'Extra' bit of the 'tools and extra' pane and flip the 'show in graph' thingy.

Hope that helps.

Yes, middle of bed for the sensor, offset a bit to not be directly where the bed wires go into the heat pad. I don't think it makes much difference exactly where it is located as long as it is somewhere in the middle-ish.

It is highly unlikely that the SSR has failed since it is not stuck in the 'on' position. It is way more likely that there is a wiring error.
Are you aware that the positive line will always be high no matter if the heater is on or off?
Simply wiring the negative to ground will cause all these issues.
Verify the ruting of the two control lines.

Chances are that your home switch is defective.
Printer tries to go 'home', switch is already closed/open/whatever and the Duet says 'I am here and now I need to go to the zero position which is 10 mm from the switch'
This will repeat forever.
I would suggest pulling the wires for the home switch and see what happens. If you get the same result, short the x home switch terminals at the board and see what happens.
If the action doesn't change then either the config.g file is set up incorrectly or there is something wrong with the Duet.

If you have a multi meter, pull the x home plug and throw the meter onto the cable connections and see if pressing and releasing the home switch has the expected results.

Hope you are all having a very happy Christmas (or whatever else you celebrate). Stay safe !!

A special THANK YOU to everybody at the DUET team for your incredible service both in the design and especially the support !!

Good guess ! forgot all about that ... let's see, the model is 76 mm by 76 mm. minimum layer time is 20 seconds. A layer is 76 *4 or 304 mm (round to 300) and at 15 mm/sec it is .... tadaaaa .... 20 seconds!

Right on !!!! Where do I send the prize for the right answer ?

Impressive and also most annoying that I must have spent an hour googling things, reading things and staring at the settings !:)

Thank you VERY much !

I am printing a small box in specialize or vase mode in PLA. The model was sliced in Cura with a print speed of 50 mm/sec and a wall print speed of 25 mm/sec. For some reason or other the print is going at 15 mm/sec and I can't seem to find out why. There doesn't seem to be an extra speed setting for the spiralize mode so what gives?
Probably something really obvious right in front of my face <grrr>

In case it makes a difference, 0.8 mm nozzle, Volcano hot end, 0.25 mm layer height, 1.0 mm line width.

I am sorry to say that I can only see a very minor difference in quality (which is exceptional in both prints). Given the cost and effort to produce the result, it doesn't seem worthwhile.
I wonder if the nozzle might be more effective in less perfect printers ....

I agree with droftarts, no reason for the fuse to blow if there was just a poor connection.
I am a little suspicious of the semiconductor right next to the connector - TR2 marked 'bed heat'. Might just be detritus coming off the bubbling connector but might bear looking into.

I admit this is probably a stupid question but .... how do you align the square hole to a tool path other than 0/90/180 degrees ?
Specifically, what happens when you print a circle? Unless the nozzle turns with the direction of print, I can't see how you get a consistent print width.

I can only speak for PETG sticking to the nozzle but the problem is identical to what you are seeing with TPU.
I have an automatic wiper action set up but this only happens at the beginning and end of the print so any accumulation during the print can still cause issues. Also, automatic cleaning, while it helps, is not 100%. I still end up manually cleaning the nozzle here and there.
I have not bothered looking into cleaning the nozzle with my wiping setup during the print because it really isn't anywhere close to 100% effective. I would estimate a 60% effective rate.
The Slice Engineering paint sounds interesting ....
Regarding a longer brush - chances are there isn't enough stiffness and the bristles will just pass over whatever is on the nozzle.
If you do find something that works, it would be great if you reported back.

Edit: Was thinking longer bristles but maybe you meant same height of bristles but bigger brushing area - I find that bristles by themselves are really not useful and a silicone wiper works much better. A larger brush would reduce the chances of the old crap being picked up on a new pass so yes, you will see some improvement.

@taglia said in Constant 'connection interrupted':

I am not sure if this is helpful in any way, but I have noticed that the connection is usually reliable for a while, right after switching the board on. Then, it degrades progressively, and after some time, it's hard to do anything.

When I had disconnect issues, they were completely unrelated to board "on" time. My printer is on 24/7 and there was no connection between connection issues and length of Duet board being on.
Of course there is nothing saying that my issues (which I haven't seen in a while) are the same as your issues. Oh, I have a Duet wifi.

Chimera clone, Volcano clone hot end. The extruder is a BMG clone. The printer is a highly modified Creality S5

Another update - I have now printed three cover plates, the first one had some issues but the next two were perfect - I am very optimistic about the speed change.

Temperature was brought up as a potential issue for PETG. I dug out the details - Nozzle: 200 - 240 C, bed 75 - 85 C .... so I am right where I should be.

Thanks again to all that offered their input! To be honest, I could have stared at the settings til the cows come home and not seen that I had set it for higher than the recommended speed. I had been printing at that speed for quite some time. It's great to be able to bounce these kinds of things off the people in this forum because although it might stick out like a sore thumb to everybody else, sometimes it's difficult for the one staring at the problem to see the trees for the forest!