I just finished a test print with 100% success. Thanks for the suggestions.
I think the major problem was that I never removed the gap from when I was printing both the model and support with pla. I had completely forgotten about this.
I also printed slower although I don't actually know which of the many speeds is used - I suspect it was 26 mm/sec for petg and pla at 40 mm/sec.
The petg and pla stuck together to a limited degree ... enough to hold everything together yet not so much as to make support removal difficult.

I only have two words ...... Woooooo Hoooooo !

I think I would like to give some cudos to all the people bending over backwards to help abstracktlighting. You are showing an amazing amount of patience !

It is highly unlikely that the SSR has failed since it is not stuck in the 'on' position. It is way more likely that there is a wiring error.
Are you aware that the positive line will always be high no matter if the heater is on or off?
Simply wiring the negative to ground will cause all these issues.
Verify the ruting of the two control lines.

Just a slight update - it seems that the Duet web interface might reproduce the last system error. I received a 'filament out' error message instead of the 'heater fault' error message today.

Thank you for all your hard work !!!

yes and none

@Ghord said in Duet 2 wifi wiring connections to CR-10 questions:

1. do the original connectors for the cr-10 stepper motors fit the duet board, if not is there a pin out diagram that anyone has that can assist me to rewire a new connector, bearing in mind the wiring from the original stepper is all black.

No, the connectors are different but the DUet comes with a full set of shells and pins. YOu will need a proper crimper. The wiring is pretty straight forward - look at https://duet3d.dozuki.com/Wiki/Duet_Wiring_Diagrams for the Duet pinout. I am sure there is a similar pinout available on the internet for the CR10 (there are a number of different boards in the CR-10)
Having said that, it is really straight forward even if you didn't have the CR10 board present. Just look at where the wires are going. A multi meter is a great help to check which wire goes with which.

1. the duet board calls for a 3 pin connector for the axis end stop switches but the cr-10 is only 2 wire, again can anyone provide guidance on this.

The CR10 uses a switch that connects the two wires together.
This is the bible: https://duet3d.dozuki.com/Wiki/Connecting_endstop_switches
The third wire is 3.3V for any end stop that requires power. It is not used for the CR10. Connect the end stop switch to the ground line through the micro switch.

1. I am going to use the PSU that came with the CR-10, I assume the small control board that is mounted to the back of the case is no longer required for the bed heater and I can wire the bed directly from the board.

Yes

Ok, I will see if I can find myself a tasty crow to eat ....

I should add that I appreciate the support that you give even though your resources are very limited !

Also, thank you to all the other people that help in supporting the whole Duet system! I am sure that it wouldn't be half as successful without the effort of a lot of people!

Thank you !

Have you looked at the voltage level when you switch on the bed heat ? COuld it be that you are running out of electrons ?

That sagging could be caused by too hot an extrusion temperature or not enough cooling with the fan. Try at 205 for extrusion temperature.

An average hot end can melt about 8-9 cubic mm per second, a Volcano hot end about twice that.
Volume is filament radius squared * pi * extrusion speed or (1.75/2)**2 * 3.14 * 420mm/60sec which is roughly 2.4 square mm * 420/60 or roughly 16.8 cubic mm per second. That means that either I screwed up on my calculation or you are running a Volcano (or similar) hot end.

When you are tuning for maximum extrusion rate, you are not concerned with the filament diameter as it exits the nozzle. There are a number of reasons why it comes out thicker (it doesn't actually come out thicker but mis-forms because it is in thin air).
All you need to be concerned about is the clicking which is what you want to avoid.
Maximum extrusion rate is just a tad below where you get the clicking.

Having said that, F420 seems very slow. What material and what nozzle temperature are you using ?

Edit: Never mind the comment about slow, did the calculations and it seems about right (if my calculation is correct)

Further contemplation: As you have found out, the manufacturer only produces a single or 3 sensor kit and I believe there is a reason for that. A 4 point support of the bed is over constrained which generally means that one of the 4 points will not respond properly to the nozzle touching the bed.
Hopefully somebody else will confirm my thinking.

You will likely find that the build plate is too large to work properly with an under build plate sensor system. A single sensor on the printhead makes more sense if that is physically possible.

The old interface is located at IP#/reprap.htm.
Depending on how you get to the web interface, you can also use that method (name for example) and follow it with "/reprap.htm" (without the quotes)

These are the relevant lines of my config.g

M92 X80.20 Y80.15 Z406.00:406.00 E415:415 ; Set steps per mm

M350 X16 Y16 Z16:16 E16:16 I1 ; Configure microstepping with interpolation

Edit: Extruders are BMG clones (reduction gear)

400 is standard on Creality CR10 varieties

@DaBit said in Service life of heater cartridges and thermistors:

I think 40W is enough, and those are quite cheap as well compared to 'brand name' 50W cartridges such as the Slice Engineering ones.

Limiting the PWM kind of defeats having a more powerful heater. Should PID tuning not take care of overshoot?

There are cheap 50W cartridges readily available but yes, 40W is plenty. I agree that turning down the PWM should not be necessary but I guess I never got my PID parameters tuned perfectly because I did have issues which I was able to mitigate by reducing the PWM setting.
I also had copper hot ends at one time, figuring they would be superior to aluminum. Turned out that aluminum was more responsive when going from active to standby on a dual extruder setup and was heating up faster (both of those probably because of the lower mass of the aluminum) and there was less overshoot as well.

FYI .... don't order a 50W heater, they are too powerful. I use 40W heaters and even those have to be turned down by adjusting the PWM value on the heater output in order to keep temperature overshoot in check.