One more Ender 5 Plus upgrade
Just had the Ender 5 Plus a few days til I just had to replace the bowden drive to a E3D Titan I had in spare. Connecting a OMC / StepperOnline 17HS10-0704S fried the E0 stepperdriver partially. Reconnected the old motor and it just vibrates I remembered to late the OMC motor has a different pin-configuration but the same physical plug.
@dc42, how good is the protection on Duet 2 against wrong wiring on the stepper outputs?
Found a local slightly used Duet 2 Ethernet 1.04 and mounting it as I write.
Had hoped to avoid crimping new connectors but I have to do a few.
The stock connectors can be forced on and sit pretty well. Still my OCD wants to change the connectors.
Hope to mount a Paneldue instead of the Creality Touch panel. I'll post some photos of the Creality display later. Maybe it can be used for something.
Mock placement with powerful magnets. Surprisingly stable mount.
BLtouch power and servo connection
Creality external mosfet for heated bed. Should work just by connecting to Duet heated bed output. Hope to change this to an SSR at some point.
JamesM last edited by
You need to crimp ferrules on the VIN, heated bed and hotend wires otherwise they can loosen up and cause issues.
Good idea. I just used the wire ends as from factory. I would hope they know what they are doing. But cutting away the tinned end and crimping a ferrule takes about 10 seconds per wire. Ferrules are much better then tinned strands.
See here for an example of adapting creality wiring for the Duet.
The motor ends don't necessarily need to be recrimped. In fact you risk mixing up the wire orders, so it might be safer to just re-use the same plugs. Since the locking mechanism isn't compatible, you can use a dab of hot glue to lock them in place.
The heater and VIN wires definitely need to be crimped. If you don't have access to a ferrule crimper, you can make do with vice grips in a pinch. It's not as pretty of a crimp for sure, and you risk actually damaging the wires if you squeeze too hard, but it is possible to get a good mechanical crimp that way. But do seek out a ferrule crimper if at all possible, and definitely don't just use bare wire.
Absolutely agree about using ferrules. I kept all the original connectors with the correct number of pins but cut of any polarisation grooves. They fit pretty snug. Just the Creality filament sensor had a different pin config and I reordered them in the original connector. Using hot glue is a good tip when I'm satisfied with the wiring.
Suggestion to anyone changing the controller in an Ender 5 Plus is to loosen the power supply from the beginning. It makes wiring much easier. All stock wires are long enough. At least with the board oriented like in my pictures. I hope to rotate it and cut open the case to give access to sd card, usb and ethernet. But also considering extensions. As long I'm displayless I can access the card through the display opening.
This PSU is pretty noisy from the start. Even when room temp is about 21 degC.
Think I will control this from the E1 heater. Maybe replace it as well if I have one more silent. Mustn't forget the other jet engine cooling the whole electronics case.
This is not the most noisy fan on an Ender 5 Plus
Creality fans are a crime against human hearing.
strips last edited by strips
Just about everything roughly dialed in. Just realized I forgot the ferrules on VIN and bed out.
I wired the case fan to fan 3 and is controlled by drivers and MCU temp. The noise is just a fraction now.
The PSU fan is wired to E1 heater output. I have to order a couple of thermistors or PT1000s I can glue to the PSU to control its fan.
Set up my old Titan I had laying around. Just have to remember to reverse E0 as I just did an basic E-steps calibration in reverse. I think the filament sensor should work ok with its original bracket until I can print something better.
Still have the improvised magnetic mount. Need to find something permanent.
A PanelDue would do nicely in that hole.
Now the fiddly bits start. Calibrate and fine tune everything.