@tinken In the Machine Specific tab on the left side you will see the temperature options for the hotend and heated bed presets.
2mm retraction for a direct drive is at the very limit. You may have too much retraction causing a slight blockage in the heat break. I would reduce it to 1mm and possibly lower for retraction length. For my E3D V6 and bondtech direct drive I am around 1.2mm and retract speed of 35mm/s.
I'm sure it's unrelated but you need to look into a better power supply. Looking at your log from when the printer was running your voltage is dropping all the way down to 11.1 so I can see that causing issues.
I would lower your extruder acceleration quite a bit...10000 is rather high, especially for a non-geared extruder which I'm assuming you have due to the low steps/mm on the extruder. I would also raise the instantaneous speed change on the extruder to something between 800-1500.
I just wondering if that real high acceleration on the extruder is causing the issue.
The first thing I would do is pep up the extruder settings a bit. Having the jerk and accelerations set so low on the extruder can cause some issues, especially if you are trying pressure advance at all which I would definitely recommend. On all 3 of my printers (Ender 3, Taz 6 and a custom CoreXY printer which all have duet wifi boards and bondtech extruders) I have instantaneous speed change of 1500 and acceleration of 1500. I don't know if the type extruder that the Ender printers come with stock can handle that high but I would bump them up to maybe 800 each as a start.
The max speeds also seem a little slow, This is what I have set on my Ender 3
M203 X10800.00 Y9000.00 Z300.00 E3000.00 ; Set maximum speeds (mm/min)
I would start off there and see if there is any improvement.
As for minimum layer time, I haven't used cura in quite a long time but I believe all that does is slow down the layer overall and not make it hang there.
Here's the stepper section from my Ender 3. I have a pitan extruder (printable titan) so my esteps are different for it.
M569 P0 S1 ; Drive 0 goes forwards
M569 P1 S1 ; Drive 1 goes forwards
M569 P2 S0 ; Drive 2 goes backwards
M569 P3 S0 ; Drive 3 goes forwards(changed to backwards)
M350 X16 Y16 Z16 E16 I1 ; Configure microstepping with interpolation
M92 X80.00 Y80.00 Z400.00 E408.30 ; Set steps per mm (gregs wade was 604 steps)
M360 E64 ; (My change) set extruder to 64 microsteps
M566 X600.00 Y600.00 Z60.00 E600.00 ; Set maximum instantaneous speed changes (mm/min)
M203 X10800.00 Y9000.00 Z300.00 E3000.00 ; Set maximum speeds (mm/min)
M201 X1500.00 Y1500.00 Z30.00 E3000.00 ; Set accelerations (mm/s^2)
M906 X850.00 Y850.00 Z850.00 E900.00 I30 ; Set motor currents (mA) and motor idle factor in per cent
M84 S30 ; Set idle timeout
Right there it says that it can/will overshoot the target temp when calibrating....by how much depends on how powerful the heater cartridge is. Something to watch out for that I have seen all too often is to make sure you have the correct voltage heater for your hotend. Many people will order a hotend or heater cartridge that is rated for 12 volts yet have a 24 volt power supply...this will make it heat up crazy fast and be pretty much uncontrollable and unsafe.
If it's one of the cartridge thermistors I just had one start going wacky on me and it was the wires having issues close to the heater block. I noticed it when I touched/moved the thermistor wires a little bit and the hotend fan would turn on and off.
I would start looking there for them possibly shorting.
With that overshoot in temperature I have to wonder if it's a problem with using a 12volt heater cartridge on a 24volt system.
I'm not looking to update this printer to 3.x firmware. I have it on one of my corexy printers but still use and like 2.5 on my ender 3 and other corexy.
Good thinking on the second e driver. I had to check since I set up my ender with dual z steppers and leadscrews but I have them sharing the single z driver.
I have been using a Duet 2 wifi in my ender 3 for a few years now and all of a sudden I'm having a problem with the x-endstop. I use the standard creality switches and it had worked flawlessly for a long time.
The first thing I did was replace the actual microswitch but that made no difference. Even if I unplug the endstop wire from the board it still shows as triggered.
Any ideas? I tried copying the sd card to a new one in case there was some corruption or whatnot but same result.
Board: Duet WiFi 1.02 or later
Firmware: RepRapFirmware for Duet 2 WiFi/Ethernet 2.05.1 (2020-02-09b1)
Duet WiFi Server Version: 1.23
; Configuration file for Duet WiFi (firmware version 1.21) ; executed by the firmware on start-up ; ; generated by RepRapFirmware Configuration Tool v2 on Tue Nov 20 2018 17:45:20 GMT-0500 (Eastern Standard Time) ; General preferences G90 ; Send absolute coordinates... M83 ; ...but relative extruder moves ; Network M550 P"Ender 3" ; Set machine name M552 S1 ; Enable network M586 P0 S1 ; Enable HTTP M586 P1 S1 ; Enable FTP M586 P2 S0 ; Disable Telnet ; Drives M569 P0 S1 ; Drive 0 goes forwards M569 P1 S1 ; Drive 1 goes forwards M569 P2 S0 ; Drive 2 goes backwards M569 P3 S1 ; Drive 3 goes forwards M350 X16 Y16 Z16 E16 I1 ; Configure microstepping with interpolation M92 X160.00 Y160.00 Z400.00 E846.90 ; Set steps per mm (gregs wade was 604 steps) M566 X500.00 Y500.00 Z30.00 E600.00 ; Set maximum instantaneous speed changes (mm/min) M203 X10800.00 Y9000.00 Z300.00 E10000.00 ; Set maximum speeds (mm/min) M201 X1000.00 Y1000.00 Z500.00 E3000.00 ; Set accelerations (mm/s^2) M906 X1600 Y1600 Z700.00 E960.00 I30 ; Set motor currents (mA) and motor idle factor in per cent M84 S30 ; Set idle timeout ; Axis Limits M208 X0 Y-9 Z0 S1 ; Set axis minima M208 X230 Y235 Z200 S0 ; Set axis maxima ; Endstops M574 X1 Y1 S1 ; Set active high endstops ; Z-Probe M574 Z1 S2 ; Set endstops controlled by probe M307 H3 A-1 C-1 D-1 ; Disable heater on PWM channel for BLTouch M558 P9 H5 F180 T6000 ; Set Z probe type to bltouch and the dive height + speeds G31 P500 X49 Y-1 Z1.66 ; Set Z probe trigger value, offset and trigger height M557 X55:220 Y20:220 S20 ; Define mesh grid ; Heaters M305 P0 T100000 B3950 R4700 ; Set thermistor + ADC parameters for heater 0 M143 H0 S120 ; Set temperature limit for heater 0 to 120C M305 P1 B4725 C7.060000e-8 ; Set thermistor + ADC parameters for heater 1 (old setting P1 T100000 B4138 R4700) M143 H1 S285 ; Set temperature limit for heater 1 to 285C M307 H1 A322.3 C152.9 D3.2 V24.4 ; PID AUTOTUNE INFO FOR E3D V6 ; Fans M106 P0 S0 I0 F500 H-1 ; Set fan 0 value, PWM signal inversion and frequency. Thermostatic control is turned off M106 P1 S1 I0 F500 H1 T45 ; Set fan 1 value, PWM signal inversion and frequency. Thermostatic control is turned on M106 P2 S0 I0 F500 H-1 ; Set fan 2 value, PWM signal inversion and frequency. Thermostatic control is turned off (for led lights) ; Tools M563 P0 D0 H1 ; Define tool 0 G10 P0 X0 Y0 Z0 ; Set tool 0 axis offsets G10 P0 R0 S0 ; Set initial tool 0 active and standby temperatures to 0C
Duet boards perform their PWM on the ground side and the positive side stays full voltage. The PWM converter you listed appears to want the PWM on the positive lead so it won't work with the duet. I know I've read there are ways around that but I don't remember what they are.
@fcwilt I managed to get it working. Took me a bit to figure out what I screwed up for homing the y-axis but I had forgot to tell it home high in the configurator and had to change that setting and in the homey and homeall files.
Now to check everything on it to make sure it works ok and do a test print.
Thanks for your patience and willingness to help me.
@fcwilt I was just about to ask about that. I have a thermistor that I use to monitor chamber temps in my printer and wondered how the heck I set that up.
I'm using the thermistor that is normally for E1 for that.
My old line was M305 S"Chamber temp" P103 T100000 B3988 C0 X2
What I'm reading is that I now have to create a virtual heater first using M950 and this is where I'm getting confused.
Do I make a line like M950 H2 "Chamber temp" and then make my line M308 S2 P"e1temp" Y"thermistor" T100000 B3950 ???
@fcwilt Welp....how I did the config on the reprap configurator messed it up and now I can't connect. I picked a static ip address and after I uploaded everything and rebooted it now I can't connect. Time to bust out my laptop and connect to it via usb and try to get the wifi back on DHCP so I can connect.
New laptop too so I don't have YAT on it at the moment.
@fcwilt I have made backups of the files already. I do that whenever I make changes and I zip them all using DWC and save them on my network drive. I'm actually making a full copy of the SD card right now to another SD card I have and then will start the upgrade process loading 3.0 and then 3.3 from what I read.
Then I need to set up my triple z files and whatnot after the upgrade.
Fingers crossed this goes smooth but I honestly don't think I'll see any benefit from 3.x since I don't plan on using any of the crazy new features. I'll do it anyway just to be current and then if it goes smoothly I can do it to my other 2 printers.