Hairspray...
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I've used 3DLAC, like it and have ordered another. However I would like to find a similar hairspray. It smells very much like it but my first attempt failed. Bristows from Super drug (£0.99!) failed and it stunk (perfume) really bad! I noticed on the can it said 'non-sticky formula', so I guess I'm looking for the stick one!
Any hints? I'm teying Aldi's own next. -
iirc you'll be looking for one that has PVA (PolyVinyl Alcohol) in it.
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PVA Glue stick dissolved in IPA sprayed from a little spritzer bottle works the same or better.
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I am in the U.S.A and this is what I have been using for quite a while. I print on glass. It works great. It is sticky when it is hot and the parts just come off when the glass is cool.
Aqua Net Extra Super Hold Professional Hair Spray Unscented 11 oz
This is the link for it on amazon.com
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Aquanet Purple can. Linked in post above. My absolute "go to". I just buy it locally.
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I am printing on dry PEI sheet and so far everything sticks well (PLA, PETG, flex). Is the glue/spray for exotic filaments or just to get an even better adhesion?
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Aldi's own brand is much like the Bristows, but doesn't stink as bad. I've upped bed temps by 5C to see if that helps a little. Home bargains insetta hairspray has been recommended and I will try that later this week after my wife's food shop!
Thanks all, particually for identifying the PVA as a desired ingredient. Currently searching to see if it is called anything else other than Poly Vinyl Alchol...
Funny the linked hairspray has so many comments about 3D printing! Not available on the uk amazon site.
@zapta I print on glass plates for ease of machine turnaround. Only got one machine setup with PEI direct on an alloy heater and it marked on first print. Another surface I am getting used to is Printbite. PETG seems to need very little encouragement to stick to glass (stopped topping up hairspray in this one) but PLA needs some help.
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@DocTrucker said in Hairspray...:
Currently searching to see if it is called anything else other than Poly Vinyl Alchol..."PVOH; Poly(Ethenol), Ethenol, homopolymer; PVA; Polyviol; Vinol; Alvyl; Alcotex; Covol; Gelvatol; Lemol; Mowiol; Mowiflex, Alcotex, Elvanol, Gelvatol, Lemol, Mowiol, Nelfilcon A, Polyviol und Rhodoviol"
https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Polyvinyl_alcohol
...easy to remember then!
Running 3 P3Steel with Duet 2. Duet 3 on the shelf looking for a suitable machine. One first generation Duet in a Logo/Turtle style robot!
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I use, when I need to print on glass: LACCA FORTE INTESA STYLING
It's available all around Europe and works great. It does have excess %$#^ in it like panthenol, nettle .. but works great. I used many others that work great too, the basic filter I used to use purchasing is the price, the cheaper it is, the less %$#^# it has inside with PVA as PVA is only thing you need. I use hairspray rarely as it's only needed when I print on glass. Normally I print on printbite that does not require any glue but some things I prefer on glass (TPU for e.g. as it sticks too good to printbite and does not let go easily).
The best ever universal glue I used in the past is the super cheap white wood glue. Not the "special" kind (like water resistant, fast working, long working, clear etc etc..) the plain white one, the content "PVA, water". You disolve it with water apply with sprayer or sponge or brush ... it works like a charm on any surface, and object removal is a breeze, if you have too big object that's stuck too hard dump it in a water and it will release, or if you can freeze it even better
... anyhow since I discovered printbite I just keep the can of the hairspray around for rare cases I print on glass
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in adittion to the interesting price correlation mentioned by @arhi ingredients are supposed to be listed in order of quantity so you should only need to look at the first few ingredients where one or two will be the butane or other gas i recon.
at least in my neck of the woods, wood glue is classed as D1 to D4 where you'd want to stay clear of D3 and D4 at least, them be waterproofed and winter rated, with most D4 glues being expanding polyurethane and it makes a mess (even when used on wood:)
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@DocTrucker If you want to try the PVA route - just buy PVA and water it down. You can get 5 litres of the non-nonsense stuff for about a tenner from any builders merchant, or pay a bit more for Unibond but it's all the same stuff. Or you can pay a lot more for wood glue by brands such as Elmers or Evostick but which is still just PVA.
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@bearer yeah D1 is the "pure PVA" I was refering to, the totally plain wood glue, not water resistent, not cold resistent.. add water to it and it's the best surface glue. I used it for years both on glass and on aluminium sheet.
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@zapta said in Hairspray...:
I am printing on dry PEI sheet and so far everything sticks well (PLA, PETG, flex). Is the glue/spray for exotic filaments or just to get an even better adhesion?
Almost always on glass. For one thing, so you can get the print off, later.
Elsewhere, really only after the first attempt failed to adhere: Occasionally on top of blue tape. Very very occasionally on whatever that black stuff is on a Prusa magnetic flex bed.
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@Danal Also, if you use glass with Aqua Net, you will find that you have no need for bed leveling. Once I have my bed leveled, I shut off bed leveling altogether. My first layer is always perfect, because glass is the flattest surface you will find.
Once the glass cools, the printed part just comes off as if it was just placed there. This goes for both PLA and PETG.
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@SteveK42 said in Hairspray...:
@Danal Also, if you use glass with Aqua Net, you will find that you have no need for bed leveling. Once I have my bed leveled, I shut off bed leveling altogether. My first layer is always perfect, because glass is the flattest surface you will find.
Once the glass cools, the printed part just comes off as if it was just placed there. This goes for both PLA and PETG.
Exactly! Love it. The bed on my "big" delta is 605mm dia glass. It is fantastic.
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@Danal said in Hairspray...:
Exactly! Love it. The bed on my "big" delta is 605mm dia glass. It is fantastic.
A bendable glass would help you removing large prints.
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I have actually had my 3mm float glass bent (not permanently) by a plastic part cooling on it! It was a chunky part and took the maximum diameter of the ~210mm square bed!
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@DocTrucker wow, never had that, what I did have quite often is piece of ABS/PETG "chip" a piece of glass and lift it. Maybe 3mm will bend where 4mm would chip (hard to get 3mm here, window glass is 4, and everything thinner you need specialized shops)
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@arhi Window glass will most likely be toughened. That's bad on 2 counts. Firstly it will chip more easily (as you've discovered). Secondly, the toughening process will cause the glass to distort and it will not be as flat as untoughened float glass. If it was hoticultural window glass then the chances are high that it was hot rolled rather than float glass and not very flat to start with. Untoughened float glass, at least 6mm thick is best IMO.
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It was a big chunky part! As you cans see it did curl off the bed a little but I wasn't interested in a perfect part, just something stiff that I could bolt to the end plates to stiffen that section of the frame up.
The glass and part spun a little on my work top before I removed the part and the glass returned to flat after the part was removed. PLA may not shrink much, but it can do so with significant force!
I'd assumed 3mm, but will check. I was going to phone in an order for some more glass soon. Wanted to checkout some of the local suppliers.
