Height Map from my updated MarkForged style printer
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@jens55 It was pretty easy actually. I took the heightmap data points, copied them and pasted into a next text file and called it bed.csv. Then I opened this in Excel, used conditional formatting for the cell coloring, and then used sparklines for the end of each row. I played around with a few charting options and that data also showed the same displayed findings in this image. I'd say import it into excel and play around with it - kinda fun.
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Very well done ... obviously the 'force' is with you!
My Excel 'foo' is nowhere near that level .... never mind the fact that I use open office in Linux for my spreadsheets.Edit: the bit that shows the graph of the particular row or column is insane - never seen that before !!!
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Cooool ! Thanks!
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@Kolbi said in Height Map from my updated MarkForged style printer:
@fcwilt , @Phaedrux ,
Have either of you had any results, or ideas, on fastening the heated bed while it is cool / vice hot - or vice versa? I was wondering this the other day, expansion and such.I recently switched to these silicone "standoffs" from the traditional springs I used to use.
They seem to work fine. The long term question is will they deform and change height.
As to hot/cold the M3 screws I use go through tapped holes in the heated bed and into M5 clearance holes in the bed support.
I believe that this should accommodate any expansion/contraction.
Frederick
Printers: a E3D MS/TC setup and a RatRig Hybrid. Using Duet 3 hardware running 3.4.6
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@jens55 If OO doesn't show it correctly, let me know and I'll share it as a google doc once I get home.
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@fcwilt @jens55, I have a mk52 style bed like the below pic. I am thinking that I could solidly mount the center, and then use semi-rigid standoffs for the perimeter fixation points.
Thinking about it, I could do a heat stabilized bedmesh, and then while keeping heat on, loosen and re-tighten the perimeters, and perform a second bedmesh - this should let me know if it is actually caused by bowing from heat expansion ....I think...
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@jens55 Did the OO file work?
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Yes it did except it did not display the graphs of the rows and column values which although neat, is not that important to me.
I have not had an opportunity to look at the underlying code yet. -
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It doesn't give me permission to access.
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I now have permission - thanks
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Looking at the code behind the spreadsheet, there seems to be nothing there that sets the colour. Is that something that is done through formatting or similar (ie not on a cell level)?
As you can tell, my spreadsheet foo is very low
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@jens55 No worries, that's called 'conditional formatting' - check this out: https://support.google.com/docs/answer/78413?co=GENIE.Platform%3DDesktop&hl=en
So, if you select all the cells with red/blue/white and do a 'right-click' - you should have a menu pop-up. On the near bottom of the menu should be 'conditional formatting'. Select that and you should see the formatting rule for those blocks on the upper left on the screen. Click on that and you'll see the logic it uses to colorize the cells.
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I don't get the option of the formatting ... probably because the document is read only.
No matter, I have learned a lot. I have also found conditional formatting in OO and will explore things through OO.
Thanks for your help! -
@jens55 No worries, I just a copy of my saved sheet so I changed it to edit enable - give it a shot if you want, can't really hurt anything.
And I just tried loosening the screws and retighten while hot, it didn't really do anything. So I'll probably get brass standoffs, put those on, measure mesh, and lightly sand down offsets until satisfied.
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Why would you bother to reduce the offsets? It's an excellent height map to begin with but then you also have the bed compensation to look after the remaining error. More than likely, you are trying to make improvements well beyond the capabilities of the printer itself.
I find that the kind of lightweight printers most of us have are so full of compromises everywhere that unless there is a likelihood of substantial improvements, I don't bother. Most minor improvements like this get drowned out in the overall picture and only get realized in combination with other improvements. By the time you actually see the difference of your improvement, there isn't much left of the original printer.
An example - I have a CR10-S5 printer that has a 4 mm glass plate on the build plate and therefore considerable mass that gets moved back and forth for the Y travel. I get a fair bit of ringing. The table that the printer sits on is lag bolted to the wall in 5 or 6 locations and it easily handles me jumping up and down on it (I am overweight). Nevertheless, with all that mass and strength, the printer rattles the wall the table is bolted to and therefore the house. It is simply the wrong kind of design for a 500 mm * 500 mm printer.
I am sure I can tweak things here or there for marginal improvements (and I do) but no matter what I do short of slowing this thing to a crawl, I will never get rid of ringing and related issues. -
@jens55 All good points. Out of habit, I always try to get everything as perfect as I can, however futile it may be at times. For now it really comes down to how bored I get (on covid lockdown now - so pretty bored), how much money it costs (maybe $5 dollars for standoffs - but already have them), and how much time it will take.
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Sounds good ... more power to you !
As an additional point, I find that my height map changes a bit every time I run it. Even if I got it juuuust right, the next time I run the height mapping it would be off.
My height map also looks more like the rocky mountains then your plains of Saskatchewan (yes, I am in Canada)
