Height Map from my updated MarkForged style printer
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@jens55 All good points. Out of habit, I always try to get everything as perfect as I can, however futile it may be at times. For now it really comes down to how bored I get (on covid lockdown now - so pretty bored), how much money it costs (maybe $5 dollars for standoffs - but already have them), and how much time it will take.
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Sounds good ... more power to you !
As an additional point, I find that my height map changes a bit every time I run it. Even if I got it juuuust right, the next time I run the height mapping it would be off.
My height map also looks more like the rocky mountains then your plains of Saskatchewan (yes, I am in Canada) -
@jens55 said in Height Map from my updated MarkForged style printer:
Yup, mine used to shift the same way until I ripped the frame apart and did the Zaribo 10mm upgrade. Since then the repeatability, and quality, has been amazing. Maybe shifting from the PindaV2 to BLTouch also helped.
I have been in the Rockys, but I don't think I ever made to Saskatchewan - closest I got was the Canada Falls side and further yet, Halifax. -
Had to look that up but amazing that upgrading a couple of rods from 8 mm to 10 mm would make such a difference. This is just to upgrade the Z axis round rods right ?
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@jens55 All rods, this is the base now: https://zaribo.com/home/205-2314-zaribo-220-mk3s-rel-3.html#/84-extruder-bondtech_mk3s/94-psu-320_w_meanwell/100-steel_sheet-thekkiinngg/102-hotend-mosquito/103-heater-e3d_40w/135-rods-10mm/138-display-lcd/140-therm-e3d/143-carriage-mk52_blocks
Other stuff was done like different motors, redesigned extruder with BLTouch, and some others. -
Ahh, that makes more sense now. Thanks for clarifying.
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@jens55 No worries. I have been slowly redesigning the entire extruder assembly in Solidworks, so that it is more compact and that the weight is evenly distributed between front and back - current design has all the weight on the front side which I do not like.
For your printer shaking, have you tried to decouple it from the table it's on? For example, mine is on a marble slab with jell feet between the marble and table - made quite a difference for me. -
It is decoupled to some extent but could be improved.
IMHO decoupling will prevent the printer shaking the house but that won't help with the quality of the print because it is still shaking all over the place. The only way to solve the shaking is to go to a design that doesn't try to sling a heavy dead weight (build plate) all over the place. -
Yeah, nothing is perfect. I guess it all comes down to managing; accuracy <--> habitability <--> feasibility
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@jens55 said in Height Map from my updated MarkForged style printer:
...that doesn't try to sling a heavy dead weight (build plate) all over the place.I've never had a "bed slinger".
I understand they are economical but the whole idea seems somewhat flaky and they take up more space then other styles.
I will admit to having ordered a PrusaMini for my next door neighbor's son who had expressed interest in 3D printing.
Frederick
Printers: A FT-5 with the 713 upgrade bits, a custom MarkForged style, a small Utilmaker style, a small CoreXY from kit and a E3D MS/TC setup. Various hotends. Using Duets (2 and 3) running 3.4.6
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@fcwilt said in Height Map from my updated MarkForged style printer:
I understand they are economical but the whole idea seems somewhat flaky and they take up more space then other styles.
Yup, you got that all nicely characterized in a single sentence
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@fcwilt said in Height Map from my updated MarkForged style printer:
economical
For me, I didn't really think about the economics - I wanted to try a bed-slinger for curiosity. For the longest time I used my Makerbot R2, and had other similar homegrown printers, but when I got deployed I donated them to the local schools because I knew they'd be sitting for a long time. Once I got back I needed one to make custom dive parts and figured to give the Prusa MK3s a go. 100% I could have easily got a Railcore or similar - and should have. Actually I think it would have been cheaper... But once I have something, I can't help but make it the best that it could be, and should have been - hence Zaribo 10mm upgrade and others. As it stands now, I get awesome results but it was a long, and somewhat ridiculous road - mostly because I am stubborn.
Even though I like my printer very, very much, I do not advise friends to get a bed-slinger. When having kids around, it is even more dangerous as small hands with fingers can get right into pinch areas.
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@Kolbi said in Height Map from my updated MarkForged style printer:
Even though I like my printer very, very much, I do not advise friends to get a bed-slinger.
It has it's uses. I got a CR10 as my first printer before I knew anything. It was great for that. Anybody that just wants to play around a bit, a bed slinger is great. Once you fall into the 3D printer black hole, it's not such a good idea. The price point is very attractive and it's easy to go that route until your knowledge level goes up a bit.
When I bought the cr10-S5 I knew I wanted to modify it with a Duet and double extruders but was not aware of a whole lot of other things. -
@jens55 Oh yeah - no doubt. With the stage that my printer is at, I don't think I'd be apt to trade it in for something else.
And I must admit, by my nature I enjoy tinkering and modifying all my stuff - so it's always fun and a learning experience. Only thing I haven't modified is my coffee machine, but it knows I'm watching it... -
ESP 8266 module and node red to the rescue ......
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@jens55 I did mess around with the ESP module to have it play with my SKR1.4 board (other printer), a bit fiddly to program since I used an Arduino to do such - but not awful. I haven't messed around with node-red, have seen it mentioned, but never opened it up... yet. The jura machine has an upgraded attachment which I think is just that... hmm...
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@jens55 said in Height Map from my updated MarkForged style printer:
Why would you bother to reduce the offsets?
This was a great point... It was a lot of work for barely marginal gains.
Brass standoffs were not up to the task, with very light torquing two broke off inside the attaching Y-plate threaded mounting points and caused a few hours of fun - stainless steel standoffs proved to be a much better option.
