Duet 3 keeps blowing the breakers in my house when powered on!!!
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What's going on? I'm upgrading all my printers from Duet wifis to the newer V3 boards, and every time I plug in the printers I blow the breakers in my home!! It should be a simple switch, from the older wifi boards to these. Nothing has changed, and all my other printers don't have this problem when I power them on.
For info I'm using 12v PSU's that have worked well for years.
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Type of breaker? (to they have ground fault / residual current function?)
Type of PSU (do they have overload protection?)
How is the PSU, Duet and printer wired? Pictures? -
So I tried a different PSU in case mine was bad, but still the same issue, once I turn power into my machine it trips my breakers and cuts the power off.
Strange because again all of my other printers are running fine in the same configuration minus this v3 board. Here’s some pics of the PSU wiring etc.
Power is lined up as mentioned in the documentation. My bed is connected directly to the the board again as listed via the documentation without a ssr as I’m only using 12v. My PSU cable is rated to 300v’s. And I have a switch linked and routed correctly.
Not sure about anything with my breakers, I rent so that info is unknown to me.
1st off I would like to know how could this board being drawing that much power to overload the breakers, vs the WiFi board, that works and is wired exactly the same?
Honestly if I had known these boards would be this much of hassle I would have stayed with the WiFi boards.
Any help would be mucho appreciated!
![alt text] https://imgur.com/gallery/ZXnLuvu(image url)
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Not sure about anything with my breakers, I rent so that info is unknown to me.
Take a picture, someone in the same parts of the world will probably be able to tell. 115v and "weird" colour coding suggest you're in the US?
1st off I would like to know how could this board being drawing that much power to overload the breakers, vs the WiFi board, that works and is wired exactly the same?
My initial thought was that "it can't" at least not without leaving you with some clues to see, hear or smell .. which makes me think its a ground fault issue as they trip at much lower current to keep humans and buildings (relatively) safe.
Your bed wiring is most likely not quite right as the Duet3 has a separate input for the bed power, i.e. the two unused screw terminals are for the input to Out0, but that alone can't be the fault.
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@bearer just removed the bed wiring all together, so no power is being drawn in from the bed. Breakers still blew. Again not sure what my issue could be?? So strange that this thing could be drawing that much power!
Here’s a pic of my breaker terminal if that help!
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Some of the breakers are labeled as GFI which is short for ground fault interrupter, which breaker is tripping?
Odds are there is a (mains) wiring fault somewhere, so be careful till you find it.
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It's the same breaker my other printers are on. Again can't fail to mention that all of my printers are wired exactly the same. Same PSU's, same power cables, same wiring config, the only difference is the V3 board, being introduced into the mix. And they have never had an issue where they trip the breakers and cut power to my room.
Is it code related? I failed to mention that this board is brand spankin new, and I'm stuck on the wiring portion of this build, which is the thing holding me back as my breakers keep getting tripped.
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Disconnect everything from the power supply except for AC in and GND.
Does it still blow?
Connect the power supply to the Duet and remove all other connections from the Duet.
Does it still blow?
Frederick
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Just tired that. Crazy thing still blew. I then tried to route the power directly from the outlet to the printer bypassing the on off switch. My power socket sparked! Scary shit man!
One thing I noticed the prong for the cable labeled N on the power socket for the printer is charred, as well as the N female socket for the power cable that receives power from the wall outlet. So must be something from that? I don’t see how as the cables are perfectly safe and wired correctly, again the same as my other printer, that don’t have this problem.
Pics of the fired power cable and outlet
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Do you have the two black wires for + and - flipped? Probably want to mark which is which.
Is it a fused IEC outlet you're using?
Can you try wiring direct to the PSU without the switch?
Also, be incredibly careful as you're dealing with mains here obviously. If the breaker is tripping there's a short somewhere.
Are you using a GFI outlet? I'm thinking not otherwise it would be tripping and not the breaker?
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@eddygara said in Duet 3 keeps blowing the breakers in my house when powered on!!!:
Pics of the fired power cable and outlet
https://imgur.com/gallery/SFfP6BcLooks like a bad connection in the socket.
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@Phaedrux It was perfectly fine until it was plugged in directly. This happened after I removed all cables to the PSU and connected everything.
I figured out the problem thanks for helping me troubleshoot, turns out, one of my connectors to the power socket was bad. You guys rock!
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@Phaedrux
Ok so it’s not fixed,This is getting out of hand. At one point it worked perfectly fine. Once everything back connected to to the board the entire things blows my breakers again.
I’ve switched out power connections, cables, removed and re did all my wiring.
The board will blow my home breakers ever time it’s powered on.
My other printers which again are wired exactly the same, (minus the new board) do not do this at all. -
Can we get some more photos of your current setup? Are you still getting blown sockets?
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@eddygara said in Duet 3 keeps blowing the breakers in my house when powered on!!!:
The board will blow my home breakers ever time it’s powered on.
with the risk of repeating myself - its very unlikely to be the board, but rather the mains wiring.
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What breakers are blowing: current limit breakers, or RCD (aka GFCI) breakers?
I had a problem last year that the master RCD breaker in the consumer unit would trip whenever I turned on the laser printer in my office. Suspecting a faulty class Y capacitor (the ones between mains input and ground that help suppress EMI), I replaced the Class Y capacitors in it. A little while later, the problem returned. Eventually I realised that it only occurred when both our new induction hob and several pieces of equipment in my office were turned on.
What was happening is that the leakage of the hob plus mains wiring capacitance plus the class Y capacitors in all my office equipment together created enough current between live and neutral to trip the 30mA RCD.
I fixed it by relocating the hob/cooker circuit to the non-RCD-protected side of the consumer unit, using a RCBO (combined current breaker and RCD) on that circuit instead of a plain current breaker.
I've since read that induction hobs are renowned for tripping RCDs. I guess they have larger class Y filtering capacitors than most other devices, because of the amount of EMI they would otherwise generate.
Duet WiFi hardware designer and firmware engineer
Please do not ask me for Duet support via PM or email, use the forum
http://www.escher3d.com, https://miscsolutions.wordpress.com -
@dc42 said in Duet 3 keeps blowing the breakers in my house when powered on!!!:
RCD (aka GFCI) breakers?
Based on the photos earlier no, they look like standard north america breakers.
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Some of them were tagged GFI - does that refer to protected outlets in the circuit?
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@Phaedrux said in Duet 3 keeps blowing the breakers in my house when powered on!!!:
Based on the photos earlier no, they look like standard north america breakers.
Here in the UK you can get RCBOs, which combine a current breaker with a RCD (aka GFCI). Might it be one of those?
EDIT: the ones with TEST buttons are RCBOs.
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I had an instance with one of my printers where the IEC connector fuse would blow after 10 minutes.
At first I thought that the fuse had died, but after 2 additional fuses died, I replaced the fuse again and
monitored the printer while powered, at that moment I realized that the IEC connector was getting really hot!!! (It was a crappy chinese one, bought via Amazon). After replacing the connector with a better specimen, the problem was solved, for some reason there was a bad connection inside the connector causing sparks and resulting heat.Long story short, check your IEC connector (and get one with a fuse)
