Duet WiFi case design



  • Oh, a larger size is definitely on my wishlist. Though with 1515 extrusions I worry about the printer getting floppy. Anyway, for the moment I think I should stop upgrading the hardware and try to tune the printer so that the hardware I have works well. Turns out buying hardware upgrades means more tuning and tweaking, not less.

    Which is not to say I don't want to tidy the printer up - so far the emphasis has been on getting it to work at all, so all the electronics are just lying there connected by a rat's nest of wires. Beyond zip-tying them to make "cables" I haven't figured out how to turn it into a tidy project.


  • administrators

    The T3P3 Mini Kossel kit places the electronics (Duet 0.8.5, same size as the Duet WiFi) under the bed. That might be an option for you too, if your motors are not too long. See https://docs.google.com/document/d/1_pZ6I5YPYf4iCJioK4b_rB7N8JDBsEia6j6qo3B17Bk/pub.



  • I tried that, with the RAMPS electronics, and they got worryingly hot, perhaps even causing some of my layer shifting problems. Definitely things improved when I moved the electronics out from under the bed. The Duet WiFi would definitely need forced-air cooling, and I'm not sure there's quite enough room.

    Another option might be to mount it on top of the ATX power supply. That box has to be near the Duet WiFi anyway, and it provides a base against which to mount the Duet. It's not so satisfactory to have two units connected by cables without a convenient connector, but the ATX supply definintely won't fit anywhere inside the printer frame. And I could probably get away with mounting the Duet WiFi on the side of the PSU that already has a fan, for a little bonus cooling of the stepper drivers.


  • administrators

    @peridot:

    I tried that, with the RAMPS electronics, and they got worryingly hot, perhaps even causing some of my layer shifting problems. Definitely things improved when I moved the electronics out from under the bed. The Duet WiFi would definitely need forced-air cooling, and I'm not sure there's quite enough room.

    Lots of people (including me) mount delta printer electronics under the bed and don't have any problems. The plug-in drivers on RAMPS are very poorly cooled, also the mosfet it uses for the bed heater is poorly chosen and gets hot, as does the 11A polyfuse. Whereas the drivers on the Duet 0.8.5 and Duet WiFi are well-cooled through the PCB, and the bed heater mosfet generates very little heat.

    In summary, you need have no worries about installing as Duet or Duet WiFi below the bed of a delta printer if you follow these simple rules:

    1. Use a cooling fan to blow air over the electronics (as in the T3P3 design) and make sure that air can enter and leave the space under the bed between the extrusions. Although with typical motors, the Duet WiFi generates so little heat that you would probably get away without a fan.

    2. If the bed is heated, use thermal insulation under the bed.



  • I'm making a mount/case for a Prusa, I'll share on thingiverse in the next couple of days once I've printed & mounted it.



  • Don't use the http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1664181 … holes are not in the right place and it will get a redesign in the future.



  • Here is one I made buy cutting up and repurposing Davids one: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1791405

    Just a front panel that connects to 20x20 t/v-slot with t-nuts



  • Here is my Prusa mount

    http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1827888

    (My clearance on the mount points is a little shallow but this can easily be updated in the OpenSCAD file)



  • I might see if I can design a case that prints "vertically" - that is, orient the long axis vertically for printing purposes. Of course that means mounting holes get messy, but I have drill bits. And I'd print end caps separately. It's a weird way to design a case, but it might be printable on my annoyingly-small printer. I'll post something here if I get it working. And upon reflection I think the best approach is to mount the Duet WiFi vertically below the extruder, on the Z tower. Ideally I'd come up with a panel-mount Molex connector so I could plug any ATX supply into the setup.


  • administrators

    Anne for horizontal holes have a look at "truncated teardrops"

    http://blog.reprap.org/2008/07/every-little-helps.html

    They print well becasue there is no overhang greater than 45, and then a bridge at the top.



  • Added mine to Thingiverse as well http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1830918. It has an enclosed 80mm fan to blow on the underside of the board, exhausting through slots top and bottom. Cable entry is left side but I've included the open scad file so it'd be easy enough to change.


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