Large Format Dowell to Duet conversion
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@charles-fraser ok so the 3HC can't be found from the mainboard.
Is the red status/diag light on the 3HC flashing in time with the one on the 6HC? -
@t3p3tony Hi Tony, thank you so much for the swift response! There is only the VIN light (blue) and 12v light (dim red/orange) on. No other lights, no flashing.
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@charles-fraser on the mainboard is the red diag LED flashing?
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@Charles-Fraser if the 3HC only has VIN and 12V LEDS lit then ensure nothing is plugged into it other than CAN and power, then try again. as a minimum it should have the 5V and 3.3V LEDs lit.
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@t3p3tony yes the diag light on the 6HC is flashing
3HC
p.s: I can't even see where the 'diag' light is on the 3HC
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@charles-fraser its between the CAN connectors;
https://duet3d.dozuki.com/Wiki/Duet_3_Expansion_3HC_Wiring_Diagrambut with no 5V and 3.3V we can get to that point. Try with nothing other than CAN and power plugged into the 3HC
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@t3p3tony you mean no power into the 6HC, disconnect that from the PSU and reconnected the daisy chained power from the 6HC to the 3HC directly between the PSU and 3HC and leave the USB to power the 6HC?
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@t3p3tony I did what I just described above and no change, only less just the 3.3 & 5v lights now on on the main board.
Still the same lights on on the expansion board. Should all those white switches be in the down position on the 3HC?
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@charles-fraser the switches don't effect the power supply on the 3HC, they set the can address (which is set o 1 right now so thats fine).
what I mean was, on the 3HC, disconnect everything plugged into it other than the CAN and power connection. You can leave the 6HC powered as you had it. I am trying to ensure there is not something plugged into the 3HC that is faulty, grounding the 5V rail) and preventing the 5V power supply for working correctly.
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@t3p3tony I see okay I will disconnect all from the 3HC except for the power and CAN. It might be a fault with the heating cartridge as when I was clearing the pellet extrusion screw with the board on I fried the chinese motherboard that came with the printer. The process involved taking the heat block that screws on around the screw that pushes the pellets down through the block to the nozzle. The block contains the heat cartridge and the thermocouple. We also thought there was a short because both times that mobo fried it was during the same procedure:
Heating up the block to make it possible to unscrew and remove it. When pulling it off the power just ran away it wouldn’t stop heating up and the printer would not turn off. I can’t see any short however and have checked repeatedly.
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@charles-fraser ahh that might be the issue. I assume that thermocouple is the one plugged into the 3HC? Its possible that that has damaged the thermocouple DB (and maybe the 3HC itself). It would be worth trying with the TC daughterboard removed form the 3HC as well.
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@t3p3tony both Diag lights on 3HC and 6HC are flashing in time :))) Thank you so much!
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@charles-fraser from your description I would say its most likely the TC daughterboard that got damaged but you will need to add connections back one at a time to see what prevents the 5V power from working properly. I would be very careful adding anything that controls a heater incase the 3HC does have some damage and the heater starts heating with no control.
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I removed everything from the 3HC - I'll do the process you mentioned. I also tried to update the firmware. This is what happened: It said updating, then okay, then when I tried to check the update it said:
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@t3p3tony it's flashing four times, then two times, then one quick flash. Sirial tools crashed too.
I started SirialTools up again and it says:
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@charles-fraser ok. lets take a step back. With nothing other than CAN and power connected to the 3HC what flashing do you get after a power cycle?
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it's flashing four times, then two times, then one quick flash.
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@t3p3tony I power cycled again and turned off USB power too. Now both 3HC + 6HC diag lights flashing in time again.
How long should I wait for the 3HC firmware to update? Will it say okay after that or does it take a min?
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@charles-fraser
ok set all the dip switches to off (currently switch 1 is set to on). Then power cycle. You should see the LED flash rapidly as firmware is loaded. once the LED reverts back to flashing in sync (after 20 seconds or so) then set the switch back to 1 on, rest off, then power cycle.Updated as our posts crossed.
