Please help me tune my custom printer
-
The printer is a totally custom design of my own got it printing and homing etc tuned dimensions and steps etc moves say 20mm when i tell it too in all dimensions. The printer is on hiwin rails and has custom hot end mount for v6 core cast out of aluminium super compact volcano wanted the hot end as light and rigid as possible but i get vibrations from speeds etc but i slow them down and it takes an age to do a print….. also the tuning of the slicer need help with also as i have watched countless videos from say tom but to no avail..... prints come out reasonable but i want them fantastic and to be able to hit print and go the printer is well designed just I'm amateur with the firmware.... i will upload currant config.g
as a side issue the bed temperature overtime is set too 125 can this be set higher ?
; COREXY dc42 Duet firmware, adapted by T3P3 for remapping the X,Y,Z drives to E1,E2,E3 pins on the Duex4 M111 S0 ; Debug off M550 Pcorexy ; Machine name (can be anything you like) M551 Preprap ; Machine password (used for FTP connections) M540 P0xBE:0xEF:0xDE:0xAD:0xFE:0xED ; MAC Address ;*** Adjust the IP address and gateway in the following 2 lines to suit your network M552 P192.168.1.69 ; IP address (set it within the network you are connecting your Duet to M554 P192.168.1.254 ; Gateway M553 P255.255.255.0 ; Netmask M555 P2 ; Set output to look like Marlin G21 ; Work in millimetres G90 ; Send absolute coordinates... M82 ; Send absolute extruder moves M552 S1 ; Machine configuration, note these are thr motors drives and not the Axis! M569 P0 S1 ; Drive 0 goes forwards (change to S0 to reverse it) M569 P1 S0 ; Drive 1 goes forwards M569 P2 S0 ; Drive 2 goes forwards M569 P3 S0 ; Drive 3 goes forwards M569 P4 S1 ; Drive 4 goes forwards M92 X160.00 Y160.00 Z3300.00 ; If you use an endstop switch for Z homing, change Z0 to Z1 in the following line, and see also M558 command later in this file M574 X2 Y1 Z1 S0 ; set endstop configuration (X and Y and endstops only, at low end, active high) M667 S1 ; set CoreXY mode ;Note that these are the motor currents for the axis labelled X,Y,Z,E0 on the Duet board! ; the "E800:0:0:0:0" explicitly sets the motor currents for the stepper drivers on the Duex4 off as those are not being used (external stepper drivers) M906 X950 Y950 Z1600 E1000:0:0:0:0 ; Set motor currents (mA), 'note that these are used for the remapped X,Y and Z axis (external drivers M201 X900 Y900 Z15 E1000 ; Accelerations (mm/s^2) M203 X30000 Y30000 Z600 E3600 ; Maximum speeds (mm/min) M566 X600 Y600 Z30 E20 ; Maximum jerk speeds mm/minute ;Setup the dimensions of your machine M208 X234 Y244 Z200 ; set axis maxima in mm (adjust to suit your machine) ;Note on COREXY you may need to allow the drives to go negative to move the head through the whole build space M208 X0 Y0 Z-0.5 S1 ; set axis minima in mm (adjust to make X=0 and Y=0 the edges of the bed) (Z can go slightly negative for testing and calibration, set back to 0 one fully calibrated). ; Z probe if you have a Z probe then remove the comment from the 2 lines below and configure according to: ; ;M558 P1 X0 Y0 Z1 ; Analog Z probe, also used for homing the Z axis ;G31 Z1.20 P500 ; Set the probe height and threshold (put your own values here) ; The following M557 commands are not needed if you are using a bed.g file to perform bed compensation ;*** Adjust the XY coordinates in the following M557 commands to suit your build and the position of the Z probe ;M557 P0 X60 Y0 ; Four... ;M557 P1 X60 Y165 ; ...probe points... ;M557 P2 X222 Y165 ; ...for bed... ;M557 P3 X222 Y0 ; ...levelling ;M557 P4 X141 Y82.5 ; 5th probe point for levelling ; Tool definition M563 P0 D0 H1 ; Define tool 0 G10 P0 S0 R0 ; Set tool 0 operating and standby temperatures M92 E837.77 ; Set extruder steps per mm (single nozzle) ;*** If you have a dual-nozzle build, remove or comment out the previous line, and un-comment the following 3 lines ;M563 P1 D1 H2 ; Define tool 1 ;G10 P1 S0 R0 ; Set tool 1 operating and standby temperatures ;M92 E420:420 ; Set extruder steps/mm (dual nozzle) 'this pattern continues for up to 4 nozzles ; Thermistors and heaters ;*** If you have a Duet board with 4.7K thermistor series resistors, change R1000 to R4700 to the following M305 commands ; You can also use S and B parameters to define the parameters of the thermistors you are using M305 P1 X100 ; Put your own H and/or L values here to set the bed thermistor ADC correction ; Put your own H and/or L values here to set the second nozzle thermistor ADC correction ;*** If you are using axis compensation, put the figures in the following command ;M556 S78 X0 Y0 Z0 ; Axis compensation here ; T0 ; select first hot end [[language]] -
Would upload picture but not sure how… ext host ?
-
imgbb.com and paste the BBCode.
-
This is the printer guys help would be appreciated
-
Congratulations on building a working printer from scratch.
Without knowing what your prints look like and what it is that you want to improve, it's hard to know how we can help you.
The heater temperature limits can be changed using the M143 command. See the supported gcodes page on the wiki for the detail. The bed heater is normally heater 0.
-
This is the link as you can see after retraction it oozes out more even with 3mm retraction
Im using printbite at moment so will higher bed temp help ?
-
Could do with some more info. Like print speed, layer height, nozzle size, layer width, print temperature, filament type, bed temperature, cooling fan (yes/no) etc
At a glance, I'd say you have the hot end set at too high a temperature. But there are gaps between the infill and perimeters which could indicate under extrusion. It's not handling overhangs well at all - might need print cooling or a lower layer height will help (but so will lower extrusion temperature). It's not doing small sections well - could just be too hot.
The first thing I'd do is some test pieces - simple cubes and so forth to fine tune the extruder steps per mm and find the best temperature for that particular filament. Then move on to one of the test pieces on thingiverse to set the retraction settings. Once you done that, then you can look at fine tuning your slicer settings for that particular model.
-
First pic:
possible retraction needs increasing, but not sure about this yet. Do you have an end gcode to move the nozzle away from the print (there's that thing on the top of the chimney).
Underextrusion: either your E steps/mm is off, or your extruder isn't pushing fully, or your filament diameter/ extrusion multiplier is off. May also check that gap fill is turned on.
Nozzle too hot or insufficent part cooling: the droop at the back hole and roof bottom.Second pic:
Chimney: definitely needs more part cooling. More evidence of droop at the roof bottom as well.
Those lines on the outside of the hull: either z banding or over extrusion.
More evidence of droop at the roof bottom suggestingThird pic:
Can see letters on bottom. Good.
Again, underside of hull. More part cooling. Only 1 or a few "zit" visible here, retraction seems ok.5th pic:
Least flattering image of the bunch
So, what slicer, what settings are in it wrt what I mentioned above…?
Nice machine, I see no part cooling fan and what seems to be a bowden extruder.What extruder are you using? Very easy for a cheap extruder to miss steps/ extrude unevenly.
What nozzle size? If it's bigger than 0.4 (ie 0.6mm and up) we're in "fat lines" business and I change my approach significantly.
If it's a volcano style nozzle (seems to be) then your plastic will stay hot much longer and the part cooling fan is even more important. -
Will answer software later tonight when im with the laptop
Nozzle genuine E3D volcano 0.4mm (new not warn) the unit was designed to super rapid printing hence voice of hotend (0.6mm was original intention customer wanted custom pcb jig hence they 0.4 in situe)
There is a part cooling fan but due to my adhesion issues the cooling fan lifts my parts worse (the pictures above are without fan)
Extruder is E3ds titan on a bowden set up with a good sized motor.
Thanks both for feed back so far as said i will post the slicer settings when im home
-
How long is the Bowden tube and what length retraction are you using with it. I think you'll see the largest improvement by dropping the hot end temperature unless you are printing at very high speed. The volcano has a large melt chamber and you'll find that for "normal" speeds you can use a much lower temperature than you have been used to. My hot end also has a large melt chamber and I regularly print at 10 to 15 degrees below the manufacturers recommendations because it gives me far better results. But try and see - every printer is different.
-
I will try that now and tube is 700mm long with 3mm retraction
-
Ian I have a 300x300mm machine with Volcano 0.8mm on it and stopped using this one because I cannot sustain the filament requirements
Of course I'm building a machine for each hotend type I have, so it's ok. And I have a big E3D box.
-
Ian I have a 300x300mm machine with Volcano 0.8mm on it and stopped using this one because I cannot sustain the filament requirements
…....................................
So you wouldn't like my 350 x 375 x 750 with 5 colour Diamond that takes 5 reels at a time
I also have a 0.9mm diameter Diamond but that's only 3 colour. I bought it for printing T Glass but having re-mortgaged the house to buy 3 reels of T glass, I'm saving it for something really special -
Oh, I read your other comment about this. This was in response to that.
I would love it, but I'd have to make a version with a 0.2mm nozzle for myself so that I could use 5 filament color scraps instead of 5 reels.
If we count all my half-built/ torn apart frames, I now have 20 printers.
Deltaprintr Delta Go
Vslot Mini Kossel
P3steel (makerfront i3, heavily modified)
2 x Wanhao Duplicator i3 - heavily upgraded. First one just became my best printing machine, second one is getting a diy 4x y splitter like prusa multimaterial.
Duplicator i3 Plus. On the list for modifications.
3 custom designed sheet metal based on CNC machanics - this is the 300mm^3 frame.
Also have 1 where this was a box frame from 20x40 extrusion instead of a folded sheet metal frame.
Yellowjacket (small 200x200 of the same frame type)
Still have the 80/20 Frame from the gmax I tried to build as my first printer.
600x600mm frame from 20x40 vlsot
5 frankenbot. Our clone of the old laser cut wood Printrbot Plus, BOM around $125.DICE.
I spend over $250 buying 18kg of PLA at a time from Microcenter.
-
right guys part cooling fan and abs seams to fail regardless of what I'm trying ? maybe its to powerful… ? print bite temperature settings ? bed 115deg and hot end 220deg ? what do you guys think to retraction settings ?
-
how is best for me to upload the simplify 3d ff file ?
-
now things have gotten harder i tried updating the firmware with he web interface and it restarted as i had expected but can't connect to it both online and through usb ?
-
What firmware versions were you upgrading from and to? Did you read the upgrade notes first?
-
original wifi firmware to the most recent 1.19.2 followed this https://duet3d.com/wiki/Updating_WiFi_firmware_or_DuetWebControl_files
-
Did you read the upgrade notes?
