Corner LEDs not working
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all are @ 1.5v or less
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I suspect there is a fault in your effector. If you look at the schematic at https://github.com/T3P3/SmartEffector/blob/master/SmartEffector/SmartEffector_v1.3/SmartEffector_Schematic_v1.3.pdf you will see that the three LEDs and resistors R8 and R9 are all connected in series across the hot end fan input terminals. So if the anode of D1 is less than 1.5V relative to H_Fan_- then that suggests to me that R8 or R9 is open circuit, or not soldered properly.
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okay, I will look after this print finishes
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dc42
I have same problem. its my fault. can your give me specs on LED so I can order replacement. -
The part number for the white LEDs is CLM3C-WKW-CWBYA153.
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and now this, can't get to printing temp even though it has been working fine other than the LEDs, could the hotend heating up soften the solder enough to do this?
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The hot end, no. Bad connection, yes.
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It looks to me that the green plastic housing has slid down, but the metal pins are still exactly where they should be. That should not be a problem, except that if you need to remove the heater wires you will probably find it easier if you push the green plastic part up so that it touches the PCB again.
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I suspect there is a fault in your effector. If you look at the schematic at https://github.com/T3P3/SmartEffector/blob/master/SmartEffector/SmartEffector_v1.3/SmartEffector_Schematic_v1.3.pdf you will see that the three LEDs and resistors R8 and R9 are all connected in series across the hot end fan input terminals. So if the anode of D1 is less than 1.5V relative to H_Fan_- then that suggests to me that R8 or R9 is open circuit, or not soldered properly.
sry so late getting back, real life stuff keeps getting in the way of play time, and it comes first.
I have 2.1-2.8 from the fan+ when its running to each LED, but none are lighting up
also have voltage at D8 and D9
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I'm having a similar problem. have traced it down to the r8 and r9 resistors what are the specs on those?
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if I am reading the schematic right is R9 a 604 ohm .33 watt and R8 a 140 ohm .33 watt? And if so is there any leeway say using a 600 ohm 1/2 watt for R9?
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The values of those resistors are not critical. But they are unlikely to have failed, unless you ran it with 24V power when you had the 12V jumper installed - in which case R8 would be charred.
Make sure that you have the + and - hot end fan wires from the Duet to the effector the right way round.
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I know that it is the resistor R9 that is why I am asking. And no I did not connect to 24v I have a totally 12v system. I just need to know what resistor to use to replace R9.
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R9 doesn't matter on a 12V system because it it bypassed by the 12V jumper. Have you fitted that jumper?
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yes. They were working fine. It is to be honest my fault, instead of changing connectors on my fans every time i change them I decided to change the connectors on my effector and while soldering them on I think I overheated the resistors. And then while testing for voltage like you describe above (checking from hot end fan - to leds for voltage the leds would light up and I would read voltage.
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by the way this incident also finally induced me to buy a rework station with temp control and retiring my old radio shack dual wattage soldering iron.
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Hi I think I have probably broken my LEDs as I changed from a 12v hotend heater to a 24v one and did not remove the jumper, they did work for quite a while then stopped working.
If R8 is the problem, I will attempt to fix it, what resistor should I use?
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R8 is 140R 0.33W. The schematic is at https://github.com/T3P3/SmartEffector/blob/master/SmartEffector/SmartEffector_v1.3/SmartEffector_Schematic_v1.3.pdf.
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Thanks David.
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Okay so, I ordered a new Smarteffector PCB and swapped it out.
Rebuilt it with the new PCB (LED jumper OFF this time - 24v) and it works fine.
But on taking a look at the old one, the R8 resistor looks a little toasty but still reads 140Kohm.
Maybe it's just not very well soldered?
NB it's worth stating that I am running my smart effector 3 corner LEDs by connecting the hotend fan connector on the smart effector to the heater in parallel as I now have watercooling and the hotend fan isn't wired up anymore, I needed the two cores in my wiring loom for a thermistor for the heatsink. The PWM to the LEDs shouldn't be a problem should it?
