I could use some help
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@mac @fcwilt you had the z probe working. Using an endstop on the low end is a retrograde step.
Ian
TronXY X5S with Duet 3 MB6HC and Roto toolboard : Cartesian bed-slinger with Duet 3 Mini 5+ WiFi and 1LC : RRP Fisher Delta v1 with Duet 2 Maestro : Polargraph with Duet 2 WiFi
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@droftarts hey, Ian, welcome to the show, what is a "retrograde step?"
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@droftarts said in I could use some help:
@mac @fcwilt you had the z probe working. Using an endstop on the low end is a retrograde step.
Ian
In your opinion. I see it as a distinct improvement.
X and Y can be homed with no Z movement required.
And generally Z homing can be faster.
But that is just my opinion.
Frederick
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@fcwilt @droftarts oh my god! what have I gotten myself between and betwixtd?
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@mac said in I could use some help:
@fcwilt Z's going backwards. When I click on Z+0.5 it goes DOWN.
Then adjust the M569 for that Z drive and change it from normal to reverse or reverse to normal - the opposite of what it is now.
Re-boot and re-test.
Frederick
Printers: A FT-5 with the 713 upgrade bits, a custom MarkForged style, a small Utilmaker style, a small CoreXY from kit and a E3D MS/TC setup. Various hotends. Using Duets (2 and 3) running 3.4.6
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M569 P0.3 S1 ; physical drive 0.3 goes forwards -
@fcwilt so I'm thinking I should change the S1 to S0? (I don't know that 0 means reverse, or the opposite of, I'm just surmising that's what I should do).
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@mac said in I could use some help:
M569 P0.3 S1 ; physical drive 0.3 goes forwardsSo you don't know what to change?
OK here you go:
The P specifies the driver number which you have as 0.3 which sounds fine.
The S specifies the direction with S1 being normal and S0 being reverse.
Don't get hung up on normal and reverse - there really is no standard for what rotation is considered normal and what is considered reverse.
So since you have S1 change it to S0, re-boot and re-test.
Frederick
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@fcwilt nice to have that fan stop rattling away. I'm glad I figured that out, and thank you for the additional information. I was thinking of that song, One way, and another, when I read about there being no "normal and reverse."
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@fcwilt look at his bed. It’s not 10mm cast aluminium plate, well-constrained and moving on linear rails. It’s a (please forgive me, @Mac ) cheap bedslinger setup. He’s going to need mesh compensation to have half a chance getting the first layer to stick. The probe was working fine. Fiddling around with a Z min endstop is excruciating with flimsy beds.
Doing kids bath and bed. Not around for a while.
Ian
TronXY X5S with Duet 3 MB6HC and Roto toolboard : Cartesian bed-slinger with Duet 3 Mini 5+ WiFi and 1LC : RRP Fisher Delta v1 with Duet 2 Maestro : Polargraph with Duet 2 WiFi
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@droftarts kids need their Dad, I had 3 (they're all adults now, although the oldest is living with us currently). Thank you for being so helpful Ian!
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@fcwilt are we okay even though the code still says "forwards?"
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@mac said in I could use some help:
@fcwilt are we okay even though the code still says "forwards?"
Everything after the ; character is just a comment - it affects nothing - you could put a line from a Shakespeare play there and it would make no difference at all.
All that matters is you find the right S parameter so the Z axis moves in the correct direction.
And the same is true for X and Y - if it turns out they are not moving in the correct direction.
Frederick
Printers: A FT-5 with the 713 upgrade bits, a custom MarkForged style, a small Utilmaker style, a small CoreXY from kit and a E3D MS/TC setup. Various hotends. Using Duets (2 and 3) running 3.4.6
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@droftarts said in I could use some help:
@fcwilt look at his bed. It’s not 10mm cast aluminium plate, well-constrained and moving on linear rails. It’s a (please forgive me, @Mac ) cheap bedslinger setup. He’s going to need mesh compensation to have half a chance getting the first layer to stick. The probe was working fine. Fiddling around with a Z min endstop is excruciating with flimsy beds.
Doing kids bath and bed. Not around for a while.
Ian
Rest assured Mesh Bed Compensation will be implemented.
One small step at a time.
Frederick
Printers: A FT-5 with the 713 upgrade bits, a custom MarkForged style, a small Utilmaker style, a small CoreXY from kit and a E3D MS/TC setup. Various hotends. Using Duets (2 and 3) running 3.4.6
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@fcwilt got it, I've offended you. Please accept my apologies. I've spent 70 years making life miserable for others. It's hard to get out of that habit.
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@fcwilt I'm not opposed to buying a decent bed. Given that the one I have on this printer now has failed the PID tests horribly, I'm looking for a good bed. Any recommendations you can provide (preferably links that will make you some money), would be appreciated.
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@mac said in I could use some help:
@fcwilt got it, I've offended you. Please accept my apologies. I've spent 70 years making life miserable for others. It's hard to get out of that habit.
I'm not offended at all.
I'm glad we are making progress.
I hope we can get Z working.
If we can do that, I think you can get X and Y working on your own since the issues are the same and the homing code is pretty much the same, just specifying a different axis.
I am running out of time today though.
Frederick
Printers: A FT-5 with the 713 upgrade bits, a custom MarkForged style, a small Utilmaker style, a small CoreXY from kit and a E3D MS/TC setup. Various hotends. Using Duets (2 and 3) running 3.4.6
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@fcwilt My BLV rebuild of my old Anet A8 had linear rails. Marvelous kit, those. I still have them, and putting them on this POS seems possible with a little elbow grease and a drill press (both of which I have).
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@fcwilt got it, ship me the X and Y code please. I'll test Z right now to confirm that the changes accomplished what I may have to use to correct X and Y if they aren't up to snuff.
