Scared to rewire endstops, help me pick new ones?
-
First off; this community seems amazing, very active!
I have a roided out Artillery Genius, but the 8 bit board keeps burning out when you look at it the wrong way.
So for my bday I got a duet3d board from my dad, which I always wanted but was overkill for that printer, but now I have it anyways.However the inductive endstops the printer uses are apparently 24v parts that still work down at 5v on the printer, but not 3.3v. Also the wiring is different, so i'd end up needing to power them from somewhere else on the printer, and rewiring the pins. There was this guy who got it wrong and he burned out his board, which is something that has happened to me once too often.
So i would like some help picking endstops available here in NL, ideally not mechanical ones, even more ideally ones that i can use the existing wiring through the printers ribbon cables.
TLDR:
I would like some help picking endstops:- Ideally not mechanical
- available in the Netherlands
- would be cool if i can reuse the ribbon cable wiring on y instead of having to run a new cable, but whatever
Thanks!!
-
@buurman why can't you run them off 24v? the input side of the IOs are 30v tolerant (on duet 3 boards) so you shouldn't have an issue. The IOs also have 5v out
-
@jay_s_uk It's just that all the videos and topics ive seen of people trying to use the stock endstops has been of people having a bunch of issues, with that one guy even burning out his board (duet 2 wifi like i have). So i kind of just feel like defaulting to an option that will work as is, no rewiring. Endstops are cheap anyways, why risk the 160 euro board.
-
@buurman which duet board do you have?
-
@jay_s_uk Duet 2 wifi
-
@buurman ah, the endstops are only 8v tolerant on that board then with 30v on the probe header.
in which case, you could look at basic optical endstops. they work quite happily on 5v.
nothing wrong with mechanical endstops though. most of my printers are all mechanical. -
@jay_s_uk doesn't the duet use 3.3v endstops? I am sure you are correct, just trying to understand.
-
@buurman theres only 3.3v on the endstop header, but theres nothing stopping you picking up 5v from elsewhere on the board and using that
-
@jay_s_uk yeah, so i can also look online for 3.3v endstops? If im buying anyways why not go to something that i can just plug in.
-
@buurman i believe most optical are 5v.
why not save yourself the hassle and go mechanical? no voltage required then -
@jay_s_uk I might just. But why then is the voltage 3.3v? Like what is the 'nominal' endstop for duet that uses 3.3v, hall effect sensors perhaps?
-
@buurman not even hall effect. they're a pain.
most people use mechanical -
@jay_s_uk Okay, I will go and get some mechanical ones then. Any idea why they don't just put 5v on there, that would seem to save a lot of hassle?
-
@buurman they have on the duet 3.
don't forget the duet 2 has been around quite a while now and is a little long in the tooth -
@jay_s_uk makes sense, thanks! One more thing, you said no voltage required for mechanical, i understand that's true to operate it, but ofc a circuit still needs to be made and broken, suppose this will also be 3.3v? I imagine it is, just safeguarding, because if it is i can safely use the wiring that already exists (part of a ribbon cable) for the y endstop.
-
@buurman no, its wired between the signal pin and ground. 3.3v doesn't get used for mechanical
-
@jay_s_uk why do mechanical endstops also have 3 leads then? and the signal pin has a voltage too, right?
-
This post is deleted! -
@buurman some of them designed for 3d printers do and thats purely to power an LED to show you when its been activated or not. Most of those though are Normally Open rather than Normally Closed.
Just buy some microswitches with a lever and print some mounts for them. Normally Closed is a much better setup all day long -
@jay_s_uk Why would normally closed be better? Fewer things that could unwantedly trip the sensor? Right now i just want to get the setup working, i can get a better setup later. It's been years since I played around with electronics so i am rusty, perhaps best for me to now focus on a minimum viable product, ie, getting the board and printer working, expand upon it later.
