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    E3D Roto + Duet Roto Toolboard - Stepper motor stalling

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    • Notepadundefined
      Notepad @elmoret
      last edited by

      @elmoret Can confirm, E3D testing is always a "worst case" recommendation. The max motor amperage is only if they are pushing ultra high flow high pressure, in a 50+C heated chamber, for extreme lengths of time.
      You may want to raise your amperage as that would give you more force available.

      The real bamboo printer manufacturer

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      • arturolazundefined
        arturolaz @elmoret
        last edited by

        @elmoret This problem started while printing ABS but I have since reverted to testing with PLA with the same results, the motor keeps stalling after 15-20 minutes of printing when coming from a cold start and sooner on later prints.

        @Notepad I have also tested with the absolute max current E3D recomends, 0.6A peak with the same result, I think anything beyond that might risk damaging the coils.

        I will open a case with E3D to be sure the motor is not damaged at this point.

        infiniteloopundefined 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
        • infiniteloopundefined
          infiniteloop @arturolaz
          last edited by

          @arturolaz

          the motor keeps stalling after 15-20 minutes of printing when coming from a cold start and sooner on later prints.

          Looks like a classical heat creep. Initially, this might have happened at high temperatures when printing ABS. Then, with PLA, remainders of the ABS can partially block the filament path so that the melt zone expands upwards…

          Have fought with that before, cleaning the filament path had only a temporary effect. In the end, I had to swap both the nozzle and heat barrier. Finally, I improved the cooling (of the cold end of my hot end 😉), which was the root cause of my problem.

          arturolazundefined 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
          • arturolazundefined
            arturolaz @infiniteloop
            last edited by

            @infiniteloop I hadn't thought of that, I will try a fresh nozzle and upgrade the fan, thanks for the suggestion

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            • arturolazundefined
              arturolaz
              last edited by

              @infiniteloop I managed to try a fresh 0.4 nozzle and replaced the original extruder cooling fan with an slightly bigger one, still not working.

              Also, I saw on the TMC2240 datasheet that Spreadcycle can compensate to some degree for the back EMF coming from the stepper, switched to that mode but didn't work as well

              More ideas are appreciated before I take the leap and go for an smart orbiter.

              infiniteloopundefined 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
              • Phaedruxundefined
                Phaedrux Moderator
                last edited by

                Can you share some photos of the extruder setup to help with context?

                Z-Bot CoreXY Build | Thingiverse Profile

                arturolazundefined 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                • arturolazundefined
                  arturolaz @Phaedrux
                  last edited by

                  @Phaedrux For sure
                  1.jpeg 2.jpeg 3.jpeg 4.jpeg

                  elmoretundefined 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                  • elmoretundefined
                    elmoret @arturolaz
                    last edited by

                    No sock on the nozzle?

                    How are you cooling the Roto's heatsink? Looks quite boxed in there.

                    arturolazundefined 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                    • arturolazundefined
                      arturolaz @elmoret
                      last edited by

                      @elmoret this particular nozzle didn't have a sock. The heatsink fan can be seen in the third picture from top to bottom

                      elmoretundefined 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                      • infiniteloopundefined
                        infiniteloop @arturolaz
                        last edited by

                        @arturolaz

                        I managed to try a fresh 0.4 nozzle and replaced the original extruder cooling fan with an slightly bigger one, still not working.

                        So you didn’t touch the heat break? From you photos, I cant’t get a clue. Could you describe the setup? I mean, is it all-metal, has it a PTFE tube all down to the nozzle …

                        arturolazundefined 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                        • elmoretundefined
                          elmoret @arturolaz
                          last edited by

                          @arturolaz All genuine E3D nozzles have socks. And yes, I can see the fan, I can also see that the area around the heatsink, that the exhaust air would be flowing through, is pretty blocked.

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                          • arturolazundefined
                            arturolaz @infiniteloop
                            last edited by

                            @infiniteloop No, I didn’t touch the heatbreak as this is a Revo nozzle there is no PTFE tube inside just the nozzle tightened all the way in into the Roto extruder. The PTFE tube coming from the top barely gets inside the assembly without reaching the hobbed gears.

                            @elmoret it is a nozzle from the early beta testing of the revo system when those were shipped without sock, so, for your point, it is genuine. There is no air path blocked aside from the front where the toolboard is supposed to be installed and the back for the mounting system, did you mean that?

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