Duet3D Logo Duet3D
    • Tags
    • Documentation
    • Order
    • Register
    • Login

    Filament Jams

    Scheduled Pinned Locked Moved
    General Discussion
    3
    7
    722
    Loading More Posts
    • Oldest to Newest
    • Newest to Oldest
    • Most Votes
    Reply
    • Reply as topic
    Log in to reply
    This topic has been deleted. Only users with topic management privileges can see it.
    • hinderenceundefined
      hinderence
      last edited by

      I've got a Tevo Little monster that I've upgrade to a Duet WiFi. Been working pretty good, but starting having an odd issue.

      Running Hatchbox Black PLA, everything works great.

      Switch to Hatchbox Blue PLA and the printer will Jam after about 1 hour of printing. The jam actually occurs in the nozzle.

      I thought it might be the nozzle, and i was wanting to upgrade to an e3d hot end, so i've replaced the nozzle, thermister, block and heater cartage. All of this didn't solve the issue. I've also upped the temp about 10 degrees but that didn't' seem to help.

      Does anyone have any idea's?

      thanks,

      1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
      • mrehorstdmdundefined
        mrehorstdmd
        last edited by

        Since the problem started when you switched filament, if you switch back does it go away? You might have a bad spool of filament...

        Otherwise, the usual questions: What is print temperature? Is the hot-end cooling fan running? How long is retraction? Nozzle diameter? Print speed? Layer thickness? Geared extruder? Does the extruder drive gear chew up the filament?

        https://drmrehorst.blogspot.com/

        1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
        • Emilyundefined
          Emily
          last edited by Emily

          I have had bad spools of PLA that will do this. Even right out of the box. I would get a fresh spool and try that. I typically print Hatchbox at about 205c, (not blue) no issues. I have had other brands of PLA that need higher temperatures, but with any decent PLA it should be pretty forgiving.

          Another thing to check is that sometimes these printers come with really cheap bowden couplings. Sometimes they can be fine, so I wouldn't run out and replace them, but that is something I would check because that can cause problems that would look like a clog.

          My experience is that actual clogs are usually caused by PLA crystallizing in the hot end when switching to higher temperature filaments. Or Residual high temperature firmaments that did not get fully purged when switching back to PLA. I purge the hot end with Esun cleaning filament when switching to and from PLA, to PETG, ABS, etc... since it has a very wide temperature range.

          1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
          • hinderenceundefined
            hinderence
            last edited by

            Thanks. I'll try a new spool. I ran out of black and got a deal on 10 rolls of blue. so....

            1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
            • hinderenceundefined
              hinderence
              last edited by

              So new spool and same thing. printing at 210 and 220 same result. seems to happen faster at 210. bed at 60.

              Retractions 5mm at 30mm/s coast of .2mm

              1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
              • hinderenceundefined
                hinderence
                last edited by

                oh and one nozzle was old (First) but worked well with black. the second nozzle is brand new.

                1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                • hinderenceundefined
                  hinderence
                  last edited by

                  Confirmed it was the filament. New roll works.

                  1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 1
                  • First post
                    Last post
                  Unless otherwise noted, all forum content is licensed under CC-BY-SA