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    Duet 2 - Version Differences

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    • Red Sand Robotundefined
      Red Sand Robot
      last edited by

      Hello everyone,

      Planning on upgrading my current printer with a Duet 2 Wifi. I saw that there are two versions available now, with the newer being the v1.04 and the other being the v1.03, with the the older version being slightly cheaper.

      Would the v1.04 be worth the expense due to the addition of the mini blade fuses and the other changes mentioned in the revision? Trying to see if I can save a little money and not regret it.

      Thanks in advance!

      almost an engineer

      fcwiltundefined T3P3Tonyundefined 2 Replies Last reply Reply Quote 0
      • fcwiltundefined
        fcwilt @Red Sand Robot
        last edited by

        @red-sand-robot said in Duet 2 - Version Differences:

        Hello everyone,

        Planning on upgrading my current printer with a Duet 2 Wifi. I saw that there are two versions available now, with the newer being the v1.04 and the other being the v1.03, with the the older version being slightly cheaper.

        Would the v1.04 be worth the expense due to the addition of the mini blade fuses and the other changes mentioned in the revision? Trying to see if I can save a little money and not regret it.

        Thanks in advance!

        If having the version with the fuses someday saves the board when you accidentally short something out, which might happen, you will be glad you spent the extra money.

        Be careful though, these Duets are addicting. I likes the results of upgrading my first printer so much I upgraded them all to Duet WiFi/Duex 5 combos. And I am happy as a clam at high tide - despite being somewhat the poorer for it.

        Frederick

        Frederick

        Printers: a small Utilmaker style, a small CoreXY and a E3D MS/TC setup. Various hotends. Using Duet 3 hardware running 3.4.6

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        • RCarlyleundefined
          RCarlyle
          last edited by

          I recently bought the 1.03 and am happy with it. I would suggest that a well-selected AC mains input fuse should be used with any board, but particularly one lacking full DC fusing, or when using a cheap DC PSU that might not have fully reliable overload protection.

          I feel ok with not having the onboard blade fuse because I have a 4A fuse on my 120VAC IEC plug inlet which will trip if there's a short in the AC wiring or the PSU draws more than 500w for a sustained period, and a genuine Meanwell 350w PSU which will trip and cut off power very quickly in the event of a DC short.

          So if my DC heatbed shorted, the PSU would trip very quickly, and if it failed to trip, the AC fuse would trip after maybe 5-10 seconds.

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          • T3P3Tonyundefined
            T3P3Tony administrators @Red Sand Robot
            last edited by

            @red-sand-robot The fuses are added to comply with CE requirements, the other changes were to further reduce the EMI to make it easier for 3d pritner manufacturers to comply with the CE RED requirements. We discounted the 1.03 to clear the old stock. either should be fine for a printer upgrade.

            www.duet3d.com

            Red Sand Robotundefined 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
            • Red Sand Robotundefined
              Red Sand Robot @T3P3Tony
              last edited by

              @t3p3tony Thanks for the clarification! I haven't seen fuses on other replacement boards (mks gen, RAMPS, etc) before so I wasn't sure if they would be a deal breaker.

              almost an engineer

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              • Jacotheronundefined
                Jacotheron
                last edited by

                Also something useful on the Documentation where the changes are listed (https://duet3d.dozuki.com/Wiki/Hardware_Overview#Section_v1_Num_04), I understand that a probe and endstops could return higher voltages than only 3.3V (without damaging the board). This can be very useful when using something like a inductive probe that returns 5V (or some even slightly higher) without the need to construct an external voltage divider (though this is quite simple, but not plug and play).

                Am I understanding this correct, or should one simply avoid probes and endstops that return more than 3.3V?

                dc42undefined 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                • dc42undefined
                  dc42 administrators @Jacotheron
                  last edited by dc42

                  @jacotheron said in Duet 2 - Version Differences:

                  Also something useful on the Documentation where the changes are listed (https://duet3d.dozuki.com/Wiki/Hardware_Overview#Section_v1_Num_04), I understand that a probe and endstops could return higher voltages than only 3.3V (without damaging the board). This can be very useful when using something like a inductive probe that returns 5V (or some even slightly higher) without the need to construct an external voltage divider (though this is quite simple, but not plug and play).

                  Am I understanding this correct, or should one simply avoid probes and endstops that return more than 3.3V?

                  You are correct. In practice the older Duets will tolerate more than 3.3V on the endstop and Z probe inputs too; but we are unable to guarantee this because Microchip doesn't specify a current rating for the ESD protection diodes in the microcontroller. In 1.04 we added external Schottky diodes so that we can guarantee it.

                  Duet WiFi hardware designer and firmware engineer
                  Please do not ask me for Duet support via PM or email, use the forum
                  http://www.escher3d.com, https://miscsolutions.wordpress.com

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