Amps Tronxy X5SA

  • Hi all:

    I'm getting closer to having good prints, right now I have fair prints.

    Playing with print and travel speeds. I have extruder skipping going on and occasionally missed x or y steps. I know it's current related so I've been bringing those settings up a bit and trying again.

    I'm still printing a cabinet for my Duet 2 Wifi board and so I don't want to push more amps than I need for my stepper motors.

    What's a good starting point for amp settings for x, y, and e on a Tronxy X5SA?

    So far I'm very impressed with the Duet 2 Wifi controller, just dealing with growing pains.

  • Moderator

    Typically 70 to 85% of the max rated motor current works best.

  • @phaedrux
    I'll look up the motor specs. Thanks.

    Right now I'm printing at 4000mm/min, moving xy at 8000mm/min, down from 5000mm/min printing and 9000mm/min moving on my last attempt.

    Z is set to 1000mm/min. I've not needed to change that.

    I upped current on xy to 1.1amps, and e to 1.05amps. I started with all my stepper motors set to 950mA.

    As of the print I'm running now I have retraction set to 5mm at 6000mm/min. Looking at my print stringing is very reduced and the print looks pretty good. I've really struggled with pinning this all down, but each print I tweak a bit.

  • @jamesadoty are you running 12v or 24v? from what ive read of the x5s series they are under powered on 12v and running the bed heat or even having the hot end heating up aggressively can cause the issues with missed steps. also, stepper motors run at high speeds better on higher voltage, i noticed a huge gain in performance going from 12v to 24v and then again up to 36v (external drivers) for the nema23 steppers on my cnc router

  • @xsivspd
    Still 12vdc.

    I've seen that the bed should allow for 24v connectivity but the wiring diagram on the bottom of the bed doesn't match up with the number of solder pads next to it.

    The printer draws 20 amps during operation with the hot end at 200c and the bed at 60c. During load the voltage from the power supply drops to 11.5 volts. I've considered turning the power supply up a bit to compensate since it wouldn't hurt anything.

    If I can verify 24v wiring for the bed, I can jumper the fans for 12v (I think I read that someplace), and change the heater cartridge in the hot end and find a 24 volt 15 or 20 amp power supply to power it all.

    With xy set to 1.1amps, and e set to 1.05amps movement speed set to 8000mm/min, and print speed set to 4000mm/sec I managed a print last night with no skips and no feed issues.

    But yeah, the bed draws 16 amps at 12 volts, tested with a Fluke meter. I moved up to 12 gauge power lead and T60 connectors and the power lead is warm to the touch. It would be good to switch to 24 vols.

    I still have some fine tuning to do in Simplify3D, I'm getting whispy stringing. I had really bad stringing initially but playing with retraction is having a positive effect on fixing that issue.

  • @jamesadoty I think you can measure resistance on the pads on the bed to figure out how to wire it for 24v if its 2 separate circuits i think itd just be running them in series vs parallel (same with the fans if youre running 2 of them i think). you may be able to get by with your heater cartridge temporarily by limiting the max on value for it, but ive not experimented with that.

    Im sure that others know more than i do about this lol

  • @xsivspd

    I think I have the amps settled down for my stepper motors. Two prints in a row of more than four hours each with no skips.

    I've upped the retraction to 7mm and that seems to have helped. I'm going to try 8mm of retraction on my next print tomorrow.

    Isn't there a jumper or jumpers on the Duet 2 Wifi board to set the fans to 12vdc? The hot ends for this printer are dirt cheap, I'll likely buy another complete hot end for 24 volts.

    I've installed a four pin 5 amp Molex connector to my printer near the hot end so I don't have to replace wiring running through the cable chain. Makes it almost plug and play, though I do have to put a new male connector on the heater cartridge and thermistor, but that's pretty easy in comparison of pulling wire from and installing wire in the cable chain.

  • @jamesadoty there is a jumper, but i think you can only set the fans to either whatever the input voltage is or 5v. Fans are cheap too, i get them on amazon so I can return them if they don't perform like they're supposed to.

    good idea on the plug, i should do that at

  • @xsivspd

    That along with replacing my xy motor mounts with metal mounts from Open builds have been two of my favorite modifications. Of course installing the Duet 2Wifi board is my favorite modification.

    I insulated the bottom of the heated bed which was my first modification.

    I genuinely like my X5SA though in fairness it's not a great printer out of the box. But my X5SA came with great features, which I really like.

    To digress a bit. I bought an Ender 3 just weeks after my X5SA arrived and it is without a doubt my favorite 3D printer to date. It will also end up with a Duet 2 Wifi board and seven inch LCD panel because I love them so.

    Before I bought the X5SA I bought and was using a QU-BD Two Up. It was better than my first 3D printer but to make it capable of reliably producing good 3d prints it went through extensive changes and except for the top brace and the hot end mount is now devoid of horrible wooden parts.

    Before the Two Up, I built a Prusa Mendal. It's a good and reliable printer but can't match the print quality of modern printers. Still it was a lot of fun to build and is reliable.

    Oh, and shame upon shame, I have most of C bot built. I need to program the electronics and do something with the horrible z axis mechanics. It's nearly as big as my X5SA. A buddy of mine has been bugging me for a year to finish building it so that if nothing else, I can sell it.

    I'm well of topic, I'll stop that now.

    After payday I'll investigate switching my X5SA to 24 volts. I need to work out the heated bed, I expect I'll need to find a combination of solder pads that give me full coverage on the heater and has about 1.5 ohms of impedance. My bed draws 16 amps at 12 volts so it's wired for 0.75ohms currently. I'll need a 15 amp 24 volt power supply, three new fans, and a 24 volt hot end. I expect it'll cost less than $100 to make the changes.

  • actually, you answered some of my unasked questions with the off-topic lol. Ive been seriously considering getting a tronxy x5st-500 to add to my collection and minimize the large stuff that needs to be printed on my delta... it has effector tilt issues that id need to buy more parts to fix and im tired of throwing money at it. I want something BIG, sturdy (the 500 uses 4040 and 2040 rails) and that can print at least the non visible stuff at at least 100mm/s, and i want to be able to enclose it easily so i cant print PC

  • @xsivspd

    Although I think the Tronxy electronics are pretty weak, and that includes the power supply, mechanically it's a good printer.

    I forgot to mention it, but I replaced the belts and my print quality improved a lot.

    It should be relatively easy to enclose the X5ST-500. My buddy Clint is after me to enclose my X5SA. I'm seriously considering it after I upgrade to 24 volts.

  • @xsivspd I can say that the X5S-500 I received has a 24v 21a power supply. I've done several upgrades to it and still have some more to do but I think it's a solid base for a printer its size. Another option I may have gone with is contacting ZYLTech and having them upscale their 400x400x500 kit to 500x500x600. I had contacted them and they were receptive but I had already ordered the TronXY.

  • @tletourneau said in Amps Tronxy X5SA:


    That shouldn't be too hard. Ten parts? four extruded aluminum vrails, four smooth rods, and two drive screws.

    That's one of the things I really like about corexy printers, changing their height is easy.

  • @tletourneau

    How do you like the 500? I'm about ready to purchase and still can't find any real reviews.

    Anything you've changed or want to change? How stable is it?


  • Reviving a dead topic here but couple of you have or have had a Tronxy at the least. I just bought a Tronxy X5ST-500 couple of weeks ago and received it last friday.

    I bought it knowing it would need upgrades but all the reviews on it were 1 to 2 years old.

    Aside from belts, hotend, extruder what more do I need or is that good enough?

    Obviously since I'm here posting I'm curious about a duet board as an upgrade as well but that might be a hurdle I need a lot of help with.


  • You may want to re-wire the bed heater for 24v.

    Don't know if yours is different but mine came with the three terminal option and markings showing connections for either 12v or 24v. I kept everything else 12v. The bed heat up time is greatly improved now.

    Also I converted both the X and Y carriages to accept concentric adjusters so that every bit of play in those areas can be eliminated.

    Lastly, I mounted a 5mm thick high quality aluminium plate on top of the bed, converted it two a three screw system and coated the bed with Printbite (which is a fantastic product).

    I am now producing really good prints.

  • Moderator

    @EzeE said in Amps Tronxy X5SA:

    but that might be a hurdle I need a lot of help with.

    Well you've come to the right place. We're all here to help.

    If you'd like to see what kind of work is needed for a total conversion to a Duet board, see this guide series.

  • @EzeE said in Amps Tronxy X5SA:

    Obviously since I'm here posting I'm curious about a duet board as an upgrade as well but that might be a hurdle I need a lot of help with.

    I upgraded mine first with duet 2 ethernet and now its running on Duet 3 with SBC so
    if you decide to go for the upgrade I can give you loads of help.

  • @EzeE

    Here's what I've done to mine:

    Duet 2 Ethernet
    Duex 5
    7" PanelDue
    500x500x9.5mm ATP-5 Cast Aluminum tooling plate with three screw leveling (may change now that I have triple Z axis)
    Wham Bam Magnetic Build Plate
    Triple Z Axis (3-92 2.1 amp motors) with 12x2MM single start lead screws and 12mm linear rods (still trying to figure out if I need the rods or not)
    Linear Rails for X and Y
    E3D Hemera
    MOSFET for hot end
    1000w Keenovo with SSR for heat bed
    dc42 Mini IR Sensor or BLTouch
    Aluminum bracing at all corners for rigidity

  • Just got my a Duet 2 Wifi today.

    Extruder, Hotend on order and a supposedly anti stretch fiber re-enforced belt.

    So my unit came with a few "upgrades" then previous versions.

    The Power supply has 24v for the heater (assumption on my part is 24v already doesn't need upgrade?) might obviously be wrong.

    Biggest issue I think I am going to have now is there is a 32 pin (IDE style/looking) ribbon cable going from the front to the back breakout board that controls the x-motor, extruder, and filliment run out and hotend. Y motor has a separate cable going from control board to the motor so odd to me.

    Maybe I'll be able to buy cables already made to get rid of the ribbon cable?

    Looking at @TLeTourneau list gives me more ideas to look into.

  • I bought my Tronxy X5SA-Pro 500 and it has the same ribbon cable from the back to the front. I'm putting a Duet 3 on it, so i'll be stripping wires and re-crimping a lot. I don't think i'll use the ribbon cable. What did you end up doing?

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