Found it! I had the Z probe pins crossed at one of the interconnects, just goes to show that I shouldn't wire things late at night. I have multiple JST connections at each end so I can quickly and easily swap probes if I want to as I have an inductive, mini IR, and BLTouch. Too many connections and color changes when I'm tired...

Thanks for the feedback, it really helped!

Place " ``` " before and after the text.

Test

Well the plate and heater are installed, now to run a mesh and see what it looks like. Here are some pictures.

Here's the cast aluminum plate:

Here is a view of the frame I made to mount the plate:

Here is the front with the plate on the mount:

Here is a closer look at the front mount:

Here is the rear left mount:

And the rear right mount:

I also installed linear rails on the X and Y axis's:

I just thought I'd share.

@taconite said in Yet another cast aluminum plate topic...:

Is there a possibility to set max bed temperature?

It should be in your config.g file already, it'll be under ; Heaters and look something like this:

M143 H0 S120                                       ; Set temperature limit for heater 0 to 120C
M143 H1 S280                                       ; Set temperature limit for heater 1 to 280C

H0 is my bed heater and H1 is my hot end.

I also use a 184C thermal fuse for redundancy.

@EzeE

Here's what I've done to mine:

Duet 2 Ethernet
Duex 5
7" PanelDue
500x500x9.5mm ATP-5 Cast Aluminum tooling plate with three screw leveling (may change now that I have triple Z axis)
Wham Bam Magnetic Build Plate
Triple Z Axis (3-92 oz.in. 2.1 amp motors) with 12x2MM single start lead screws and 12mm linear rods (still trying to figure out if I need the rods or not)
Linear Rails for X and Y
E3D Hemera
MOSFET for hot end
1000w Keenovo with SSR for heat bed
dc42 Mini IR Sensor or BLTouch
Aluminum bracing at all corners for rigidity

I learned something this weekend, I'm not a machinist! Although I gave it a valiant effort I wasn't able to create the new side support bars for my bed out of the 1.5" x 3/8" 6061-T6511 aluminum bar. Although I had a vice on my drill press I was not able to get the holes for the lead screws and guide rods centered and square to each other on the bars. I've contacted a local machine shop and they should have them made for me in a week or two. I may put a small milling or CNC machine on my wish list for the future.

What can cause an "extruder 0 reports no filament" message and the printing to pause? The printer has a standard switch type filament sensor and isn't running out of filament. If I press resume the print resumes without issue.

@mrehorstdmd
Yeah but I don't want to make my print bed smaller.

@Danal
That is very nice, now I wish I had thought to have tabs machined into my build plate! Looking at that design I'm wondering if I'll need the 12mm linear rods. I'm going to have 3 T12x2 lead screws, 2 on the outside edges of the build plate on one side and one in the center on the other side. The build plate is attached to a relatively solid frame mode of 2020 and aluminum bar shown in the first and thirteenth posts. The aluminum bar is being replaced with a 3/8"x1-1/2" piece of 6061-T6511 aluminum bar to minimize flex.

@mrehorstdmd said in Remounting my print bed:

Nylon won't work because the friction is so high you won't be able to turn the leveling screws (I tried).

Do you think derlin would work? My brother can get derlin in the sizes that would work.

@mrehorstdmd said in Remounting my print bed:

PTFE bar or block

Yeah, I tried finding some when I built it out the first time and struck out. I'm going to give it another try. I really appreciate the responses!

The heater is inset 25mm from the edge of the bed on all sides.

This is the front which is the single constraint:

This is the right rear which is the triple constraint:

This is the left rear which is the double constraint and the one I had the problem with creating a smooth channel. I'm hoping that mounting an U channel here will help with the issue.

@mrehorstdmd said in Remounting my print bed:

Maxwell or Kelvin type

I'm had attempted to implement and am shooting for a Kelvin type tetrahedron-vee-flat. I was not able to machine a smooth channel/groove for the two constraint point in my build plate and am wondering if affixing a c channel to the bottom of my build plate for the two constraint point will alleviate that issue. I plan on using that in conjunction with triple Z auto bed leveling.

Strange question but what c channel size would you guys recommend for the ball head screws? It looks like the most common would be 5/16" (8mm) which is actually 8.7mm across internally or 1/4" (6mm)? The ball head measures 8.7mm across so I am leaning towards the 5/16" but I thought I'd see advice first.

Thanks in advance!